Bell housing bolts

Pulling the motor on my 99 legacy outback for headgaskets. What is the best way to remove the lowest bell housing nut on the driver side of the motor? Having trouble getting a tool in there.

Remove axle is easiest way. I typically unbolt bottom 2 strut bolts (after marking camber bolt), remove axle nut, and pull the axle. Then you can get an impact with a 6 sided socket on it. A wobble extension helps

I've done that twice in the last two weeks! That nut is a pain in the nuts! I did it both times without removing the axle, not that that it isn't a good idea, I just didn't want to let the car win by making me do more work!

 

So I used a 3/8 ratchet that I don't care about because I don't have a breaker bar for some reason. Standard 14mm socket, universal joint, long extension, maybe 8"?, and a piece of pipe that fits on the ratchet handle.(i know, bad form, but it's a craftsman). I get everything lined up and brace the ratchet against the trans, then here is the tricky part, as you push down on the ratchet it wants to slide down the trans to the crossmember, which takes everything out of the ideal alignment angle.....so I put a small piece of 2x2 on the crossmember and under the ratchet to keep that from happening and it worked pretty well.

 

One word of caution, make sure the universal is lined up in a good loosening orientation, and watch the socket the whole time. If the universal isn't in a good spot, it will start trying to slip off the nut as you are loosening it, don't let that happen.

 

Don't know if that helps, I can probably post a pic if you need a visual, but I think if you start it you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

Good luck!

I got mine off with a wrench and if more leverage is needed I hook another wrench to it. Barely enough room though.

My first couple times was a wrench. Then I picked up a set of universal sockets and never looked back.

Finally got it yesterday by grinding down the side of my 14mm wrench to get it to fit on the bolt and then smacked it with a hammer a couple times to break it loose, and then i was able to get it to turn with a 3/8 14mm socket with a wobble joint and 6in extension from under the car.

I used to try and wrestle them off with the axle in place. Not bad if it's ever been out before. If it's factory tight and wearing 100k+ worth of vibration, corrosion, road salt, and general auto detritus, I just pull the axle and get it over with. . . especially if it's an AT. Trans case, cooler lines, and filter are all up in your bidness on those. MT's have a lot more room to work.

 

Advantage of living here in the south is I can usually do it from the ball joint, which gives you more room to swing the spindle than taking loose the strut bolts. Youse guys up in yankeeland don't usually have that option.

14mm ratcheting wrench works every time for me.