poly LCA bushings, long term road tests

Like everyone's stock LCA bushings, mine are torn to shreds... Under braking though my car is rock solid, and the steering input is still very responsive...

 

Still, I look under at them and think those big tears can't be good for overall suspension responsiveness and stability... Searching around this forum I found this Subaru bulletin:

 

2005~06my legacy Front lower control arm bushings

 

Dealers have reported, and in some cases replaced, the Front Lower Control Arms for cracked bushings. Generally, replacement is not necessary. Even with cracks up to 15mm across the outside surface, and all the way through the bushing from one side to the other, the bushing performance is still 20 times the strength of specification.

 

This type of bushing works with compressed rubber and when the control arm travels through its full stroke it stretches a small portion of the bushing and will exhibit a crack or split. This does not affect the performance of the bushing and will not continue to spread to the rest of the bushing. It does not cause body vibrations, noises, or braking issues. A Service Bulletin will be released outlining the above information. See image to the right.

 

The portion I question is "when the control arm travels through its full stroke it stretches a small portion of the bushing and will exhibit a crack or split" if that is indeed true, then poly bushings will get stressed under the full stroke of the control arm and perhaps fail more catastrophically eventually...

 

That's not saying I buy that, but for those who have replaced LCA bushings with poly ones, how long have they lasted and have you seen any problems?

Poly is a tougher material. With that said, the poly bushings on the market are "solid" in the bushing, there are no slots for tears to propogate.

Yeah, poly bushings don't flex/stretch like the OEM rubber bushing and are infinately more durable.

I inspect mine regularly when I'm doing brake swaps or changing wheels. They are holding up just fine. I run the SuperPro set. This article describes how they work and clears up some misconceptions:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Custom-Bushes/A_2833/article.html

 

It's funny that Subaru says: "It does not cause body vibrations, noises, or braking issues." because in our experience, worn LCAs do cause all of those! When I swapped mine all of those went away, everything else constant.

Thanks for that, that was a really good article...

No problems seen on both the AVO and the Whiteline LCA Bushings we've installed. Some have as many as 50-60k miles on them.

 

-mike

While we're on the subject:

 

- What's a good lube to use for LCA bushings (can you use somethign like Moble Synthetic grease?) that doesn't hurt the urethane? How often should you do this and what should you take apart to lube it (the inner metal insert/sleeve? (I think there's one))?

 

- I have whitelines and really like them. My whole set up is quite a bit stiffer than stock, so didn't notice much noise/vib issues on install.

 

Thanks.

Whiteline doesn't have any 0deg bushings right? I've been looking and can't find any, the standard says 0.5deg. I had ordered up the AVOs, but I guess they're on back order. I'm replacing the struts next week and I know I'm going to notice a lot more wobble from my torn LCA bushing once the other stuff is firmed up.

The Whitelines can be set from 0 deg up to .5 deg, depending on how you place it when you press it in.

 

As for lubing, I have had mine in for about 3 years and haven't lubed them yet. No deterioration.

 

-mike

if poly bushing dont flex, and stock bushings do...what are the advantages/disadvantages of them not flexing? firmer ride?

Less deflection. That means that the suspension works as it is supposed to. Energy is absorbed by the strut, rather than by deflecting bushings. This all provides better control of wheel motion, which provides more predictable and stable handling.

 

As for a firmer ride, that is inherent of stiffer bushings and such.

Can anyone tell me if .5 degree offset Whiteline LCA bushings are recommended for stock suspension? I don't want any problems afterwards and I definitely don't want wheels to be moved in wheel well.

 

Thanks

Also should i replace just rear LCA bushing or both? Or should i ask, is it recommended to replace just rear or both bushings?

 

Thank you!!

The caster doesnt move the wheel in or out. It rotates it froward or back. We have installed plenty of them on stok soccer mom legacies without any long term issues except amiles ontheir faces.

 

We usually bundle the inner bushings and the rear of the front lca bushings together.

 

-mike

 

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Hi Mike. Are those soccer mom Legacies on stock suspensions? I have the AVO offset ones and thinking replacing them with the 08 sti/spec B bushings. After almost two years, I don't think I'll get used to the extra NHV or I'm just getting old:redface:

Hi Mike. Are those soccer mom Legacies on stock suspensions? I have the AVO offset ones and thinking replacing them with the 08 sti/spec B bushings. After almost two years, I don't think I'll get used to the extra NHV or I'm just getting old:redface:

 

Yes, hence why i said they were soccer moms. just stock legacies who had bad lca bushings. We put in the whitelines and they love em.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Hi Mike. Are those soccer mom Legacies on stock suspensions? I have the AVO offset ones and thinking replacing them with the 08 sti/spec B bushings. After almost two years, I don't think I'll get used to the extra NHV or I'm just getting old:redface:

 

Perhaps there is something else causing he roughness?

 

-mike

 

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11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

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It's mostly the crappy road around here.

well that's what i'm trying to avoid, any wheel movement, front back or in out. I want it to look like they way it is stock. Any other bushings available to avoid this but are better then OEM (stock)?

well that's what i'm trying to avoid, any wheel movement, front back or in out. I want it to look like they way it is stock. Any other bushings available to avoid this but are better then OEM (stock)?

 

The front/back change is almost inpercievable in terms of visal appearance. The Whiteline kit is adjustable so it can be set to stock caster.

 

We sell the Whiteline KCA334 for $130.

 

-mike

 

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11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

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Thank you for your reply.

Who should be adjusting this? my mechanic that will install bushings or techs that do alignment? Are there any instructions enclosed with these bushings that show how to set the caster at 0 and .5?

The caster needs to be adjusted while the alignment is being done. The bushing has these little inserts/sleeves that can be turned by inserting a punch thing into the holes in the sleeve and rotating the sleeve. All the shop has to do is lossen the bolt, and rotate the sleeve and watch the caster change, and retighten once it's where you want it to be.

 

And as mike said, the visual difference is very, very, very minor. You have to be looking for it to notice the very slight difference in wheel position in the well.

Thank you for your reply...now what's confusing me is that, why would there be ANY difference if caster is set to 0?

More details about adjustment here:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspension-handling-stiffening/137600-what-tool-adjust-whiteline-alk-kca334.html

 

The shop might have a "pin spanner wrench" but if they don't, someone mentioned a punch and a hammer, and you insert the punch and tap it sideways to rotate. That's what my shop did.

Thank you for your reply...now what's confusing me is that, why would there be ANY difference if caster is set to 0?

At 0 additional caster, there's no difference from stock. But this allows you to *add* an additional 0.5 degrees on top of stock, which brought my total caster to 6.5 degrees I believe. That's what I opted for. I really suggest you add the extra caster if you buy this kit. Seems like a waste to me for you to have it set to stock.