2010 clutch slipping. I need a replacement

I am taking the recommendation of my local independent subaru shop. I am going to stick with the OEM and replace the flywheel. The cost is also an issue.

 

Sticking with the OEM clutch sounds fine to me. Replacing the flywheel sounds less fine. Have the shop justify why they can't just resurface the flywheel. I strongly recommend this due to my own experience on this issue. I had to convince COBB, who did my clutch and thought I had a dual-mass flywheel, that I didn't need to replace my flywheel with the WRX single-mass flywheel because I actually already had it from the factory. It took a couple of conversations, and I had to point out that the part numbers were the same for both my Legacy and the WRX. Once they understood that, they simply resurfaced it.

 

I suspect your shop may be operating under similar pretenses. The 4th generation Legacy had a dual-mass flywheel for most model years, so it is definitely a misconception for some Subaru shops who see 4th gen Legacies but almost no 5th gen Legacies to have. If you had a dual-mass flywheel (and again, you don't), you would need to replace it as resurfacing it is not an option.

 

It is possible that the single-mass flywheel couldn't be resurfaced for other reasons, necessitating replacement. But if it hasn't been resurfaced before, I'd be a bit suspicious of anyone recommending I replace the flywheel.

Edited December 7, 2016 by Ellesedil

Just in case anyone was wondering, the southbend stage 2 actually feels a touch lighter than the OEM clutch.

Currently having the Southbend stage 3 endurance put on, hopefully get her back today sometime. The warehouse that my shop used as a 3rd party sup. sent the wrong clutch out (fjk1000 vs fjk1001) where it was pretty obvious that things wouldn't work (TOB is different, clutch was to big for fw, and pressure plate didn't bolt up to flywheel). Got in touch with John at Southbend and although I resolved the issue without having to go through him, he was a pleasure to talk to on the phone, giving me advice on what I should do to fix the situation and offering to do whatever he could, so +1 to them.

New clutch is waaaayyyyyyy easier now.

 

Parts installed

FJK1001 kit

12342AA090 flywheel

Motul Motylgear 75W-90 gear oil.

 

Have to relearn how to drive this clutch..Stalled it pulling away from FW MOTORSPORTS....

LOL

 

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just a day after the clutch is installed I am hearing and feeling a grinding noise going from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd. kinda from 3rd to 4th and hardly noticeable after that.

 

For me it only happens when the pedal is pressed all that way down. Which is currently how I and changing gears. My left leg muscle memory is still used to the heavy resistance from the old clutch. The new one it's very light.

 

I called the shop and tried to explain it the best I could over the phone. Best thing was to bring it back. One of the mechanics test drove it and was able to duplicate the anomaly quite easily. He diagnosed it even further that the grinding only happens around a certain RPM. We brought it back to the shop and had the owner take a listen. The two of us stood outside and had a listen...Couldn't hear a thing. The owner got in and he too was able to duplicate the issue. I still couldn't make out any grinding from outside the car.

 

He shut off the car, closed the hood and we went back inside. He scheduled me for a follow up appointment fro Jan 3, 2017 to have another look.

 

They suspect the TOB is the culprit but won't know till the get it on the lift.

 

Anyone else experience something like this shortly after a clutch replacement?

Did you have them install a TSK kit?

No.

just a day after the clutch is installed I am hearing and feeling a grinding noise going from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd. kinda from 3rd to 4th and hardly noticeable after that.

 

For me it only happens when the pedal is pressed all that way down. Which is currently how I and changing gears. My left leg muscle memory is still used to the heavy resistance from the old clutch. The new one it's very light.

 

I called the shop and tried to explain it the best I could over the phone. Best thing was to bring it back. One of the mechanics test drove it and was able to duplicate the anomaly quite easily. He diagnosed it even further that the grinding only happens around a certain RPM. We brought it back to the shop and had the owner take a listen. The two of us stood outside and had a listen...Couldn't hear a thing. The owner got in and he too was able to duplicate the issue. I still couldn't make out any grinding from outside the car.

 

He shut off the car, closed the hood and we went back inside. He scheduled me for a follow up appointment fro Jan 3, 2017 to have another look.

 

They suspect the TOB is the culprit but won't know till the get it on the lift.

 

Anyone else experience something like this shortly after a clutch replacement?

Any update on this? I'll be installing a new clutch soon and thinking I'll stay with stock and get the flywheel resurfaced as opposed to replacing it.

My advice is get a used flywheel ahead of time and get it resurfaced or go with the ACT lightweight, the price is pretty good compared to a stocker. I couldn't wait on a resurface so I cleaned up mine and ran some sanding disks over it to give the clutch something to break in against and called it good. But remember mine wasn't slipping at all, so if yours is best to get the resurface done or get a new one. You can get the ACT on amazone prime, IIRC.

Well I bought a stock (Exedy) clutch today FJK1001. Fortunately, time is not really a big issue so I'm debating ordering a new FW (from somewhere with a solid return policy) and having it ready, just in case mine is too beat up for a light resurface. Hopefully it'll be fine and I can get it resurfaced and be good to go. The stock FW is only about $20 more than the ACT, so I'll likely stick with that as a backup.

 

Think I'll try to slide the transmission back or remove it instead of pulling motor; unless someone who has done this before says otherwise.

 

Anything else I should get while I'm doing this? Will order FW bolts soon and have gear oil. Rear main seal? I want a full exhaust but don't want to spend the money yet:icon_sad: Unless mine is rusted to the point of not getting it back together. I'll be taking a peak at it tomorrow to see.

Well I bought a stock (Exedy) clutch today FJK1001. Fortunately, time is not really a big issue so I'm debating ordering a new FW (from somewhere with a solid return policy) and having it ready, just in case mine is too beat up for a light resurface. Hopefully it'll be fine and I can get it resurfaced and be good to go. The stock FW is only about $20 more than the ACT, so I'll likely stick with that as a backup.

 

Think I'll try to slide the transmission back or remove it instead of pulling motor; unless someone who has done this before says otherwise.

 

Anything else I should get while I'm doing this? Will order FW bolts soon and have gear oil. Rear main seal? I want a full exhaust but don't want to spend the money yet:icon_sad: Unless mine is rusted to the point of not getting it back together. I'll be taking a peak at it tomorrow to see.

 

I'm not sure if you realized the transmission is what holds the engine up, so if you are planning to remove it you need to support the engine somehow. You should check your local dealer for the flywheel if you plan on returning it, that will save you shipping. Or just make sure they stock it, which they probably do since it is the same as the wrx and those go through clutches pretty quickly.

Do not pull the trans back. It is going to be way harder than pulling the motor. Not impossible, but trust me it will be much easier than the other way. You can also get a good look at the motor while it is out. Change spark plugs super easy if you are due and many other things. As FLlegacy said, those mounts on the trans are the engine mounts. They are a pain to remove for sure.

When I had my motor rebuilt a new exedy Hd unit went in, with re-surface of the stock fly wheel, heavier than oem without it being too heavy, a bit annoying in heavy stop go traffic as she doesn't like being slipped in low rpms, more of a rev then relase deal, even with my car tuning she holds up well so far, but not alot of kms on it atm as still fresh.....

I have heard to be very gentle for the first 1000 miles or so.

Just ordered a South Bend Stage 2 Endurance, flywheel bolts, and pressure plate bolts. Will also install ARP head studs as (relatively) cheap insurance while the engine is out.

 

What's the consensus on changing the rear main seal if it's not leaking? Thanks.

I have heard not to mess with it, but this forum seems to believe it is cheap insurance.

 

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just a day after the clutch is installed I am hearing and feeling a grinding noise going from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd. kinda from 3rd to 4th and hardly noticeable after that.

 

For me it only happens when the pedal is pressed all that way down....

(removed for quote length)

...

They suspect the TOB is the culprit but won't know till the get it on the lift.

 

Anyone else experience something like this shortly after a clutch replacement?

 

This exact thing happened to me, clutch was changed right before I bought the car. (wife works at a dealership so I saw it in process) Although I suspect it was the quality of the "OEM" kit they used. Having owned only 1 automatic in the 25 years I've been driving, I knew it was the TOB. If it you hear the grind in neutral with the clutch pushed in and revving to ~4k rpms, it's your TOB. I had them change it out to an Exedy stage 1 and have never been happier. Feels much more like the WRX I test drove.

This exact thing happened to me, clutch was changed right before I bought the car. (wife works at a dealership so I saw it in process) Although I suspect it was the quality of the "OEM" kit they used. Having owned only 1 automatic in the 25 years I've been driving, I knew it was the TOB. If it you hear the grind in neutral with the clutch pushed in and revving to ~4k rpms, it's your TOB. I had them change it out to an Exedy stage 1 and have never been happier. Feels much more like the WRX I test drove.

The stock clutch is an exedy stage 1.

 

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The stock clutch is an exedy stage 1.

 

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Are you certain? Because I paid ~$400 extra to get the Exedy Stage 1

FJK1001 is the oem clutch by exedy. There is a HD version, but I don't think the price difference is $400. My local autozone sold the stock as a stage 1 and then a heavy duty version for around $200 more.

Hm, I have to disagree. I talked to an Exedy rep (the distributor is literally 1 block away from my house) to confirm the requirement of the lightweight flywheel and they verified that they have 3 different part numbers covering OEM to Stage 2 (not including the "Hyper-multi" unit).

I have part number 15804.

 

Partial exchange from the rep:

--------------------------------

"Thank you for your interest in EXEDY products.

 

For the 2010 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5L turbo model the FF502A is not required as the OEM, stage 1 and 2 kits will work with the OEM flywheel.

 

OEM = FJK1001

Stage 1 = 15804

Stage 2 = 15952"

----------------------------------

https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/fjk1001/i-125854.aspx

Hm, I have to disagree. I talked to an Exedy rep (the distributor is literally 1 block away from my house) to confirm the requirement of the lightweight flywheel and they verified that they have 3 different part numbers covering OEM to Stage 2 (not including the "Hyper-multi" unit).

I have part number 15804.

 

Partial exchange from the rep:

--------------------------------

"Thank you for your interest in EXEDY products.

 

For the 2010 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5L turbo model the FF502A is not required as the OEM, stage 1 and 2 kits will work with the OEM flywheel.

 

OEM = FJK1001

Stage 1 = 15804

Stage 2 = 15952"

----------------------------------

https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/fjk1001/i-125854.aspx

 

Thanks for that information! We love part numbers here!

subscribed...looks like i'll need a clutch - reading through now - recommendation from shop was Competition stage 2, which isn't currently in stock - so offered S3 at same price

I think its overkill, but I'm happy to stay with the stocker. I am not ready to walk down the STI 6MT swap road yet. Good luck, I would recommend a southbend stage 2 they seem to have a good following and I don't recall seeing a failure on one yet, the competition clutch otoh I have read of few failing early, well earlier than a near $1k investment should fail.

Update. The TOB was the culprit and it was replaced. I am still not doing any launches (a failed one got me in this situation in the first place.) It was replaced with an OEM and I am happy with it. It holds my custom eTune just fine.

 

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