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Rough idle issue in drive only??


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Hi all....

I was wondering if anyone can help me troubleshoot a rough idle issue...

 

My 07 n/a automatic had a new wheel bearing and axel put in Thursday

And now it is idling rough when in drive only, and only when the car has come to a stop. Like at a stop sign or traffic light. When I shift to park, or when the car is in motion the idle returns to 'normal'.

 

Has this happened to anyone else???

:confused:

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Is the AC on? That can affect engine vibe when stopped (foot on the brake), in Drive.

 

One thing you can always do, is loosen the motor mount nuts, and the pitch stopper, to let the engine "settle" in its place (don't run the motor like this), and then torque it all back up. Also, same story with the trans mount. Easy thing to do is loosen all of those, on a level surface, then tighten them all up and see if it resolves it.

 

I did this once on an old Legacy wagon, I pulled the car onto ramps and then loosened the motor mounts and trans mount, then used a jack to raise/lower the whole thing, then loosened the pitch stopper, shook the motor around a tiny bit by hand, than while on the ground on its own weight, got underneath and tightened all the mounts back up.

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From what I'm reading, this could be caused by an aftermarket axle if that's what you had installed. Was the work done by subaru or an independent shop, do you know what kind of axle was used? I know that it might sound odd to suggest the axle, but it looks like this is a common issue with subarus and aftermarket axles, but only certain brands. A few threads I've read have specifically cited napa axles, but I don't know if there are multiple napa grades or what.
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  • 1 month later...
It's the axle. I just had my front passenger axle changed out at an independent shop, and I'm having the exact same issue. It wasn't doing that before it was changed out. Im debating what to do about it. It's not horrible, and if I creep forward a bit at a red light or something it goes away. Did you end up doing anything?
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I haven't had a chance to get one from Subaru but I have been trying little things to make it not as bad. I will try the moving forward a little. I have been just moving the wheel and usually I can find a 'sweet spot' where it will stop with the annoying sound and vibration.

Why is it that after market axels do this to a/t? So annoying and more $ to spend now :-/

 

With all this things with this car, I've decided it will be my last subaru. My Audi was easier to maintain then the legacy is.

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I haven't had a chance to get one from Subaru but I have been trying little things to make it not as bad. I will try the moving forward a little. I have been just moving the wheel and usually I can find a 'sweet spot' where it will stop with the annoying sound and vibration.

Why is it that after market axels do this to a/t? So annoying and more $ to spend now :-/

 

With all this things with this car, I've decided it will be my last subaru. My Audi was easier to maintain then the legacy is.

 

You put non-OEM parts on a car and are complaining about Subaru? Your logic is poop.

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I would imagine that it doesn't do it with manual transmission because when you're stopped, the car either isn't in gear, or the clutch is pressed in, so there's no "pressure" (for lack of a better word) on the drive axles. With automatics always being in gear, there's always forces acting on the axle, even when stopped. Unless it's in park or neutral, which is why the vibration goes away. I think it's some kind of resonance vibration that only happens at that low rpm. I can't explain why it goes away when I creep up a bit and stop though.

 

I'm worried about the vibration wearing something else out, is why I'm concerned.

 

I know what you're sayin about the Subarus, or at least the GT's. They do seem to have their nuances, maintenance wise, ie. what fluids you use, or having to replace all 4 tires if one goes down. Seems like there's always something more to learn about them. But, I personally don't mind. It's still my favorite car I've ever had.

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You put non-OEM parts on a car and are complaining about Subaru? Your logic is poop.

 

Yeah, I definitely slipped this time. I've just never had it happen before with an axle change. Then again, I've never had to change one on an automatic before. I've used aftermarket on a manual before without any issues. Lesson learned.

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Yeah, I definitely slipped this time. I've just never had it happen before with an axle change. Then again, I've never had to change one on an automatic before. I've used aftermarket on a manual before without any issues. Lesson learned.

 

While it's a Japanese company these cars seem to be slightly better then domestics on service. I'm sticking to OEM for everything possible, there are some things lost in the 'specs' that appear to matter.

 

This is my last Subi as well, for a host of reasons.

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I would imagine that it doesn't do it with manual transmission because when you're stopped, the car either isn't in gear, or the clutch is pressed in, so there's no "pressure" (for lack of a better word) on the drive axles. With automatics always being in gear, there's always forces acting on the axle, even when stopped. Unless it's in park or neutral, which is why the vibration goes away. I think it's some kind of resonance vibration that only happens at that low rpm. I can't explain why it goes away when I creep up a bit and stop though.

 

I'm worried about the vibration wearing something else out, is why I'm concerned.

 

I know what you're sayin about the Subarus, or at least the GT's. They do seem to have their nuances, maintenance wise, ie. what fluids you use, or having to replace all 4 tires if one goes down. Seems like there's always something more to learn about them. But, I personally don't mind. It's still my favorite car I've ever had.

 

All 4 tires is with any awd system keep that in mind.

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This is the difference between a $60-80 axle that is made in China, with what level of quality standard? There's a reason the parts store axles are cheap. There is probably slop in one of the CV joints themselves (bearings and races) and that is what is vibrating for you.

 

Buying one from Subaru or from a reputable shop (like one that rebuilds Subaru axles such as MWE), can be worth it's weight in gold.

 

On an N/A Subaru, they are easy to change, well at least the old 2.2's are/were. With no turbo/piping in the way, I've changed those axles in less than 30 mins.

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