1995 Legacy Wagon Suspension Question

I have a 95 Legacy 4EAT wagon which I'm using for my snowbaru this year. The chassis has 220k and a leaky rear strut. So I'm going to at minimum replace the rear struts.

However, I would not mind and may have some money to put towards the car. So I'm thinking going a little taller is a good option.

Here are my Q's (and yes I've read about 40 posts and have about 10 different answers...) Hoping to get some answers from someone who has done the swap and put some miles on the lifted suspension. I drive ~75-80miles a day, so driveability is important. This isn't for 10-20 miles of getting dirty on a Saturday, I hope to put down around 5,000-6,000 miles this winter.

1) Forester vs outback, which sturt/spring is actually taller when installed on a 2nd gen Legacy?

2) Parts source, I'm looking at Advance Auto or Auto zone locally for new struts, springs, hats. Online would be rockauto.com. Any other suggestions?

3) I've read the outback/forester have a variety of bushings and mounts which are paired with the taller suspension, how much does this impact the Legacy in terms of drivability? Longevity? Are any necessary to complete a swap?

4) There are front and rear spacers also available. Would a 3/8" or 1" spacer (subtle solutions) be too much when paired with forester/outback struts? How much height can I reasonably get without needing to cut/extend/re-wire/etc?

5) Alignment, camber bolts? At what height would these come into play?

Posting a meaningless response so this shows in my participated folder. I am very interested in the replies.

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the outback struts are slightly taller,

but he forester springs are slightly taller.

the outback struts have more room between the bottom of the strut and the spring perch.

the forester strut has more length between the top of the strut and the spring perch.

so for MAX lift, outback struts and forester springs.

BUT, the taller springs are compressed into the shorter outback spring height,

so the taller ''stance'' you end up with (taller than outback springs and struts)

is mostly due to a stronger spring, a stiffer spring as it were,

more spring under the same weight.

this creates a stiffer ride.

i hope this makes sense.

i used outback assemblies , no forester parts.

and it works great.

i do not think the taller springs will gain you much.

but i do not really know.

outback struts and springs will lift you car about 2.25 inches, maybe a little more.

you will not need any lift blocks,

or alignment hardware like camber bolts.

all will be good.

i have noticed NO unusual wear of any kind,

or ant unusual alignment issues.

i would not buy struts from the local parts store.

i'm pretty sure you can save a bunch on line.

once you identify the struts you want,

look at ebay, there may be a deal.

if you want to build a swamp buggy,

i cannot help you.

but for a daily driver, 80 miles a day,

why would you need anything more than 2 inches.

you could install larger tires and gain up to another inch of lift,

but if you do, your speedo will be off.

you will be driving faster than the speedo says.

Thanks for the replies!

I would like the extra clearance as I drive in the NE region of PA. I had plowed some lighter snow with my 2000 outback sedan. That should be an indication of what our penndot and locals due with our taxes. I had a mini with snows for the last few years and that car did great, but was very limited by the depth of the snow. The legacy on it's tired suspension is not much taller than the Mini. Since I need to put in new struts, might as well go tall. I'll keep the factory Legacy tires, motor and brakes are a bit low power for larger wheels. Not to mention the extra cash for new wheels and tires.

I'm thinking forester based on what I found for parts. I'm reading 98 to 08 fits, non-leveling suspension of course.

Any thoughts? Differences between first and second gen forester setup?

Sorry for hijacking another thread. I've got a 97 GT sedan. I also have a set of 98 outback struts that I plan to put in for a slight lift. But I also want to go with bigger tires. What's the biggest diameter I can get away with without rubbing on the rear spring perch?

I;m pretty sure I can get 215/65/16's in there (27" diameter). But 215/70/16's are cheaper and more popular, but they are like 28" diameter.

i responded in the other thread,

but when you remove one of the original struts,

compare it to the ''new'' outback strut.

compare from the bottom to the spring perch.

that is the difference.

but if it is 2 inches,

you may not be able to go 2 inches larger in RADIUS.

front tires 2 inches (radius) larger than than stock outback may rub when turning.

rear tires may clear the spring perch on the strut,

but rub on the front edge of the fender.

so do not over do it.

but you can go to the stock outback size of 205/70/15.

and if you look around,

you can find stock outback wheels and tires on craigslist,

and get a deal.

this will give you about a 3 inch total lift.

Thanks! I was thinking it'd be more like 1-1.5". According to what I've read online, the stock tire size for my GT has a diameter of 24.9". The 215/70/16 has a diameter of 28.1". That would be 3.2 inches taller, or 1.6" taller radius. So if I really do get 2.25-2.5" more clearance it shouldn't matter. Only thing it sounds like I'll run into is possible rubbing up front, maybe a small spacer would help with that?

I like the idea of the 215/70's because they are a bit bigger, but they are also a bit cheaper and more common. But maybe I should just play it safe and go with the 215/65's. Would you have any input, one was or the other?

Also I am use to the speedo being off. I had a VW Vanagon that was like 20% off. So at 25 it read 30, at 50 it read 60 (confirmed with GPS). This would be the other way around, but I think I should be able to manage. Just have to make sure if any drives my car they know.

the rear tire may be the limit.

the taller strut,

moves the center of the tire down and forward,

unless you replace the trailing arm or something like that.

basically, it moves the leading edge of the tire forward,

closer to the fender.

i read one post that said his new larger tires rubbed the mud

guards in front of his tires.

i told him to remove the mud guard.

.

So just to follow up on my original thread...

I ended up going with parts through Ebay. Ended up with "as labeled" as SF5 STI Forester Springs and Struts. I picked up a set of JDM Forester struts, assembled with hats and Espelir Blue WRX Springs. I believe the springs are "ASD" type/model springs. They ride height came out the same as the factory Legacy L. Which is awesome cause I didn't want to go any lower (snow car). However, the springs and struts are a ton more responsive and stiff. I'm super happy with the handling on my old 95 Lego Wagon on 14" and snows. The tires and sloppy end links (parts to be installed), are really my limits now. Very happy for the $400 spent (with shipping) on used "JDM" parts.