Installing Koni's - spring seating question

Hi there,

 

I'm right in the middle of installing Koni's & MSI springs. Got the fronts bolted in last night & am starting on the rears this morning.

 

I spun my car around to back into the driveway & noticed it's clunking when turning far right & far left...sounds like the springs are trying to pop into place.

 

I'm wondering if I didn't seat the springs correctly at the piece below the top hat. There's two little rubber nubs that stick up from that piece...are they supposed to be oriented any particular way? Right now I have the back up on jack stands so I can't see how mine are oriented, but if you have any suggestions, please help!! Hoping to get everything squared away this morning.

 

Thanks in advance!!!

 

-Mark

So I took the front drivers side strut out, reseated the spring, reinstall.

 

Turn the wheel ANDDdd.....CLUNK.

 

The spring is binding & then clunking. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Anyone???

 

BTW - Got the rears in & now I know the joy of the lower shock bolt. :mad:

I'm having the exact same issue as you, only with rallitek springs and bilstein struts. The spring perch is supposed to be oriented with the two drainage holes facing outward, towards the outside of the car. I've heard some people say that wrapping the bottom coil of the spring with some type of isolator will stop the spring from twisting. This is what I'm going to try .

Well I just took it for a spin & first of all....only one word can describe the Koni's with MSI springs - AMAZING! It feels like a completely different car.

 

I'll have to check again, but after taken some turns pretty hard it seems like the springs might have found the right spot on their own. I didn't hear anything when I pulled in my driveway.

 

Now on to a another issue. While I had the front passenger wheel off I tried replacing the brake caliper bracket since mine is seized....don't ya know the first bolt I tried to take off that holds the bracket to hub...snapped! :mad:

The nut snapped off, or the entire bolt holding the bracket? If it wad the entire bolt, and your bracket is being held on with only one at this point, id look into replacing the entire bracket.

The nut snapped off, or the entire bolt holding the bracket? If it wad the entire bolt, and your bracket is being held on with only one at this point, id look into replacing the entire bracket.

 

The bolt head sheared right off at the face of the bracket. The body of the bolt is still sitting in the bracket/knuckle...it's pretty rusted, so I don't think it's going anywhere. I was actually trying to replace that whole bracket. Taking it to AZP on Monday to let the pro's take a stab at it. If it won't come out will probably have to go with a new knuckle.

You have the front top seats in the wrong orientation. There are two holes it. They are supposed to face towards the outside of the car. They should be staring at you if you look into the well with the wheel off. They are for water drainage. If they are in the wrong position the spring will not properly seat and you will get the popping/cluncking sound on turns.

You have the front top seats in the wrong orientation. There are two holes it. They are supposed to face towards the outside of the car. They should be staring at you if you look into the well with the wheel off. They are for water drainage. If they are in the wrong position the spring will not properly seat and you will get the popping/cluncking sound on turns.

 

 

AHHHHH!!!! Many, many thanks m sprank!! Not looking forward to pulling them out again; but now I know.

You can do it without removal. Raise the car off the ground to relieve some pressure. Use the top hat nut. Turn in a clockwise direction (tightening). Since the nut is torqued the shaft and upper seat will spin. Not the best, but it works fast.

Mention it to the guys today if you get this msg and they'll check it out for you when they look at that brake issue (they may have to remove that strut to work on the knuckle anyway).

 

-mike

You can do it without removal. Raise the car off the ground to relieve some pressure. Use the top hat nut. Turn in a clockwise direction (tightening). Since the nut is torqued the shaft and upper seat will spin. Not the best, but it works fast.

 

 

Great! Thanks again! I will try this tomorrow after work.

 

Mention it to the guys today if you get this msg and they'll check it out for you when they look at that brake issue (they may have to remove that strut to work on the knuckle anyway).

 

-mike

 

Thanks for the help today Mike! Got home tonight & found one of those conical washers on the garage floor.

That is probably the missing one from the left side. Check the right side to make sure it has the conical washer there as well.

 

-mike

You can do it without removal. Raise the car off the ground to relieve some pressure. Use the top hat nut. Turn in a clockwise direction (tightening). Since the nut is torqued the shaft and upper seat will spin. Not the best, but it works fast.

 

Thanks again for the help man! Ended having to remove both struts to add a washer....but was able to line up the holes easily now that I know which way they go.

 

That is probably the missing one from the left side. Check the right side to make sure it has the conical washer there as well.

 

-mike

 

Turns out they were missing on BOTH sides...found the other washer too. Pulled 'em & took 'em apart tonight & now they're smooth as butter. Stupid mistake...

Woops. Glad you figured it out. It is nice to have the great crew at AZP available to you. Highly recommended for anyone in the entire Tri-State area.