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about to pick up a running 91 awd auto with a slipping trans for 600. plenty of donors in yards for a manual swap. anyone have a swap tutorial that more in depth than the one on legacycentral?
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do these cars share springs with any other subaru? i also read somewhere that the lw flywheel for the 22 is the same as other scooby motors, if so what other flywheels are compatable?
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Unless you're really good at driving stick I wouldn't recommend one because you have to focus all the time at your shifts. The rev's rise quickly, but they fall quickly too. Just something I've noticed in a few of my friends cars. That being said I'm not really sure what's compatible, but you could always go on bbs.legacycentral.org. I hate to advertise other sites, but those guys seem more into upgrading everything they can while here we're more into keeping them running haha
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More or less im looking for a reliable, semi quick and fun daily. i know from messing with saturns that a lw flywheel is a huge upgrade with small engines. yes i used to mod saturns.
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I run a 12lb flywheel in my Legacy. It feels good.

 

If you want to run a different flywheel, you'll have to switch to a WRX style clutch. They don't make aftermarket flywheels for the stock Legacy clutch.

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Unless you're really good at driving stick I wouldn't recommend one because you have to focus all the time at your shifts. The rev's rise quickly, but they fall quickly too. Just something I've noticed in a few of my friends cars. That being said I'm not really sure what's compatible, but you could always go on bbs.legacycentral.org. I hate to advertise other sites, but those guys seem more into upgrading everything they can while here we're more into keeping them running haha

 

While I agree that the Legacy has excellent throttle response, I don't think it would be much harder to drive than anything else. Plain and simple, if you know how to drive stick, you can drive anything.

 

Within 50 miles of driving an unfamiliar stick shift vehicle you should be well acquainted with the way it shifts, when to shift, and how the clutch works.

 

The last 4 stick shift vehicles I've driven on a daily basis were very different from one another. First a 1990 Dodge W350 4WD with the 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel and a Getrag 5 speed, to a 2001 Ford F250 2WD 7.3L Powerstroke Turbo Diesel V8 with a 6 speed (Company truck, overloaded to 12,700lbs GVW), to a 1986 Ford F150 2WD 300 (4.9L) I6 with a 4 speed, to my GF's 2007 Toyota Corolla 1.8L 5 speed. There have been many cars in between, including a 1990 Toyota Corolla 1.6L 5 speed, a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L Turbo Spyder 5 speed, a 1995 Honda Accord 2.2L 5 speed, a 1997 Hyundai Accent 1.5L 5 speed, and a 2005 Scion TC 2.4L 5 speed just to name a few.

 

Honestly, the only issues I had going from vehicle to vehicle was with the F250. It was like my 1990 Cummins because it had a granny first gear, but the shift linkage was set so that it would ignore first gear. First gear wasn't even labeled as "1" on the shifter. It was called "L". Technically speaking, "1" on the shifter was actually second, and to get it to first (Which you didn't really need) you had to bounce the 2 foot long shifter off the stop where first should be, then it would disengage the stop and let you shift to first. The very first time I did this I was confused as Hell. Overall there were major differences between vehicles, but nothing a second or two of thought courln't prevent. For example, the Dodge had a worn second-to-third synchro. In order to downshift into second I had to bounce the shifter off the first-to-second gear synchro, then downshift to second. The F250 had the messed up shift pattern. The F150 had very tall ratios for a truck. The 2007 Corolla has a very light clutch pedal, too light if you ask me. It also lacks anything resembling low end torque. All stick shift cars have their differences, but its easy to adapt and even easier when the car you're adapting too is your daily driver.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, back on topic. If you're going to swap to a manual, you're going to need a lot of parts. The pedal assemblies, shifter and linkage, clutch master cylinder and all the lines and linkages would be handy. That is, after you get the transmission itself of course. You could get the manual transmission ECU if you want, but to save time when it comes to wiring you could just wire the stock ECU to think its in neutral all the time. That has worked for some people in the past.

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^^

 

I was just mainly speaking in terms of the rev's since they fall quickly you'll either have to learn to shift faster or rev higher before you shift. It's mainly the point that you'll have to pay more attention to your shifts because playing it by ear will be trickier.

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