Bad Grounds Can Lead to Wheel Bearing Failure

I wonder with the tolerances being closer its more sensitive to dust/electricity/etc. Kind of like an AR15 will jam well before an AK-47.

An AK is not an AR is not a wheel bearing:lol:

An AK is not an AR is not a wheel bearing:lol:

Whole point of analogies, taking two objects that folks are more familiar with .

I got under my Forester with a DVM and was trying to measure the resistance between the rear diff and the body and axles. Since it is also rusty (though not as bad as my legacy), results were not good, unlimited resistance. Heck even doing two points on the diff also proved to have unlimited resistance.

Whole point of analogies, taking two objects that folks are more familiar with .

 

I got under my Forester with a DVM and was trying to measure the resistance between the rear diff and the body and axles. Since it is also rusty (though not as bad as my legacy), results were not good, unlimited resistance. Heck even doing two points on the diff also proved to have unlimited resistance.

Unlimited resistance,means NO resistance. If there is NO resistance,then you cannot have a capacitor effect. Same is true of no contact resistance .

I got under my Forester with a DVM and was trying to measure the resistance between the rear diff and the body and axles. Since it is also rusty (though not as bad as my legacy), results were not good, unlimited resistance. Heck even doing two points on the diff also proved to have unlimited resistance.

Unlimited resistance,means NO resistance. If there is NO resistance,then you cannot have a capacitor effect. Same is true of no contact resistance .

This made no sense to me, either. Set DVM on Ohm (resistance) hold the 2 leads in the air not touching anything, what's the display show? Means there is no electrical connection - open circuit.

Now, touch the leads to each other, what's the display show? Means there is no resistance - closed circuit.

Now, which of those images did you see when testing on your diff?

Sorry my English can be rusty at times. Measuring ohms with my dvm, open circuit would say OL or something similar, while close circuit (two leads against each other) read 0.000. Not 100% on units of measurements, need a new battery before I can check again.

I would get the OL when testing anything on the rear diff, even 2 inches apart. I also got OL when testing two points on the axle and two point on the knuckle. The thing is so rusty that it would register as an open loop.

I did test resistance in the engine bay, random engine spots against the body and I would get anything from OL to varying levels of resistance.

Sorry my English can be rusty at times. Measuring ohms with my dvm, open circuit would say OL or something similar, while close circuit (two leads against each other) read 0.000. Not 100% on units of measurements, need a new battery before I can check again.

 

I would get the OL when testing anything on the rear diff, even 2 inches apart. I also got OL when testing two points on the axle and two point on the knuckle. The thing is so rusty that it would register as an open loop.

 

I did test resistance in the engine bay, random engine spots against the body and I would get anything from OL to varying levels of resistance.

Sigh:lol:

Well, let me add my $0.02

I had EXACTLY the same BB failure on my ordinary bike. NOT e-bike. NOT gas powered one. There was NO battery/alternator involved whatsoever.

IMHO that means:

(1) The failure is caused by static electricity, generated by friction of the bearing parts

(2) The failure is NOT related to electricity at all

In case (1), the conductive additive to bearing grease, like graphite, should help.

In case (2), we simply need better bearings ;-)