2006 Subaru Legacy Gt Build

Hello! I’m new to the Legacy forums but not the Subaru. Prior, I owned a gf8 and 02 wrx. I’m also much more of a datsun guy and have built a few s30’s and 510’s.

To start with the build, I’ve picked up an 06 that was originally auto converted to a 5 speed. I’m actually trying to go to an oem+ style of build at this point but unfortunately, this far is heavily modified.

To begin, I’ll talk about some of the mods that I’m trying to remove.

P.O. has a Garret installed which is setup with an external wastegste but the car is much slower than it should with all these mods. So I’m planning to go back to the vf40 because I’m using this as a daily so it seems more practical.

The second thing is that there’s a stage 2 southbend clutch. I’ll get around to changing that to an exedy oem prokit because the car doesn’t need a stage 2 for the power it’s currently providing.

Whats special is that this motor was built by yumi sports in 14’ and it has forged internals and 40k which seemed like a decent deal to me.

I’m sure I’ll do plenty of maintenance on the car but till then.

I’m goinna swap trans and diff fluid as of next week and I’m running 10w-40 just for the built aspect.

Let’s talk about problems that anyone can potentially help with me.

1) As I was driving, my clutch pedal sank to the floor and sat there.

I assumed it was slave but I replaced that and I’m continuously having the same problem and I can’t get my car into any gears. I figured it could be the fork but the fork is too stiff. Also, I changed my MC so I’m assuming I really need to bleed the hell out of it with a mightyvac but does anyone have any suggestions?

2) The car has HVAC so the prior owner butchered the top dash piece and put a double din. Everything in the car worked but then I decided to wire the stock radio so I just rewired all the colors to the stock ones that are part of the original head unit. Then nothing worked besides all the lights on the stock radio unit. It seems like it’s getting power but there’s absolutely no ac or radio controls. I’m really hoping to get this taken care of ASAP. Also, when I changed the wires, I lost power in my front dome light as well as my door jam lights. I’ve also lost all power in my keyfob which is the most annoying part. I’m hoping to also install something with a Bluetooth option into the back of the stock HVAC radio if anyone knows as well.

3) I’m going to install the vf40 onto the car but I’m curious as to if I’ll run into any issues with the fact that the Garret currently on the car has an external waste gate as well as a screamer pipe. What down pipe will I need or any other necessities.

4) Initially, there were gauges on the a pillar that didn’t work so I trie yo remove them all. As I was taking out the butchered wiring, I found that there were a few wires going towards this cylinder looking piece in the front of the car behind the drivers wheel. I’m not sure what the object is. It has two wires out the back and one other wire that was going to what seemed like a boost controller?

5) The car has a FMIC which is nice and helpful. There was one piece on the car that sat near the firewall next to the CMC and it had two hoses coming out of it. One was going to the piping in the FMIC and the other is unknown. Also, there’s two wires coming out of this little piece. I’d like to get rid of all the extras and keep it to a minimum.

As far as pictures, I’ll get PLENTY posted but with photobucket not working, I’m not sure what would work.

My priorities are to get the car running and I’m not heavily worried about boost just because I’m not the pedal to the metal type of guy.

I’d like to get the slave bled ASAP so I can return to driving the car because I’ve been borrowing a friends and I genuinely miss my wagon!

I’m extremely excited for this build.

Prior, the rear sway bar mount was broken, rear door handles, front window regulator and switch, shift boot, Oil catch can. And a few other small things in the car that I’ve already repaired. Also, my turbo is shooting out oil. This makes me assume either my catch can isn’t ported to the correct spots or that the turbo has shaft play. It sounds horrible so I’m assuming shaft play.

Plans!

Install new clutch

Some sort of Bluetooth radio for daily driving

Fix the HVAC so I can get my heater and ac back!

Repaint from bumper and mount better

Install an e-brake boot.

Nardi steering wheel setup.

New headlights

Get a tune to adjust for stock turbo

Rid of screamer pipe

PLEASE help me with anyone you can I’ll promise to return the favor!

Thank you for your time and happy thanksgiving week!

WOW, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ the service manual may help you out.

Don't get a vf40, they are a junk turbo. Most of us go with a vf52, it's a 2011WRX turbo and is a nice DD with a 3" Invidia catted down pipe.

You could sell the fmic and buy a Grimmspeed tmic, both my cars have one, very nice piece, its how the car should come from the factory.

You'll need the help of a Tuner for the vf52 set up. depending on where you live there are two we recommend. east coast, is Mike of www.tuningalliance.com I use him. The other is Dave at http://www.cryotuneperformance.com/ he's in CO.

The clutch in the car will be fine with the vf52, if there's nothing wrong with it, don't waste you money on a stock oem style.

Look through the sticky's at the tops of the forum's lot of good info and links to parts there.

Continue to ask us before you spend your money.

Oh, to load pictures, go to the Home Page and see the second thread down. You may have to log out and then log back in to post pictures. To log out click the user CP link on the upper left on the Home Page. You should see the log out link under the avartar

Thank you for the quick reply!

Crap I already got a vf40 too because I got a particularly cheap one. Maybe I’ll just return it and wait on the turbo all together. Wish I knew prior to registering on the forum. I was also interested in the vf40 just because no tune aspect. I’m really not building this for power either so it seemed like a good choice.

The clutch has had multiple problems and it’s tough getting into gear when the cars on and it’s extremely chattery. It just seems more ideal for me to change to the stock kit so I’ll hold onto the prokit for now. As far as the FMIC. I know the car is supposed to have a top mount and the scoop is virtually useless when you rid of it but I already have the FMIC and it’s serving it’s purpose so I planned to keep it ideally.

I’m located in Southern California.

I know I’ll need a tune probably. The car came with an access port and a few other things but I’m not quite sure if it’s married or how to connect because the wires are complete shenanigans.

I’ve been lurking threads but it seems like there’s no real definite answers so I was looking to see if anyone knew any already.

I’ll ask before spending again without a doubt.

If you got a decent vf40 it can be rebuilt into something worth keeping. again, currently www.tuningalliance.com is the go to guy for rebuilding turbo's. The other guy is taking some time off for family. But he's member JmP6889928.

My Spec 2+ sometimes will chatter, I put the tranny in neutral and side step the clutch pedal letting it bang to the top. Seems to fix it. I also find the clutch will chatter if I baby it to much.

The other person you'll want to get to know in SoCAL, is "m sprank" he has a real shop and fix's these cars. www.infamousperformance.net Mike is a long time trusted member. I've bought items from him in the past.

He may also have thought's or be able to rebuild the vf40. You can tell him I sent you.

Oh tranny and diff fluid. Motul Gear 300 is the best stuff out there for these cars. I wouldn't recommend anything else. It's not cheap, but neither is a tranny rebuild.

I assume your car has 6mt ? the 5mt takes the same Motul gear 300. just less of it.

Oh, you don't always get all the old fluid out so don't just put in what's required. stop short and check it.

If you got a decent vf40 it can be rebuilt into something worth keeping. again, currently www.tuningalliance.com is the go to guy for rebuilding turbo's. The other guy is taking some time off for family. But he's member JmP6889928.

 

My Spec 2+ sometimes will chatter, I put the tranny in neutral and side step the clutch pedal letting it bang to the top. Seems to fix it. I also find the clutch will chatter if I baby it to much.

 

The other person you'll want to get to know in SoCAL, is "m sprank" he has a real shop and fix's these cars. www.infamousperformance.net Mike is a long time trusted member. I've bought items from him in the past.

 

He may also have thought's or be able to rebuild the vf40. You can tell him I sent you.

 

Oh tranny and diff fluid. Motul Gear 300 is the best stuff out there for these cars. I wouldn't recommend anything else. It's not cheap, but neither is a tranny rebuild.

 

I assume your car has 6mt ? the 5mt takes the same Motul gear 300. just less of it.

 

Oh, you don't always get all the old fluid out so don't just put in what's required. stop short and check it.

I WISH the car had the 6mt but unfortunately it’s the 5mt. Right now, I already have four quarts of mobile one 75-90 so I’m gonna run that in the trans but diff will get the 300. My trans is extremely stiff getting into gear on top of the chaser.

And when I don’t baby it, I eventually grind gears which is the most disgusting sound one could head.

The vf40 I got is a brand new turbo so the odds are is that I’ll just slap it on and go from there. I know it’s not the best power output but I think it’ll do the job of getting enough power and of saving a little bit of gas.

Regardless, I should get to know mike for any future issues. I’m gonna probably purchase a mightyvac because I’m tired of always having issues with bleeding things. I need this damn slave to get going so I can drive my car again!

After doin some research, it seems that the head unit may have a piece from within that broke its satering point. Aside from this, does anyone know how to get the oem clock to work? Mine is wired in etc but nothing appears!

Once again, thanks for the hasty reply

There is a "cocktail" for the tranny that may help with grinding,

https://www.google.com/search?q=uncle+scotty%27s+cocktail&oq=uncle+scotty&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.10165j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Please tell me your not going to use Mobil 1 motor oil, there 5w-30 has been shown to be ... not good for these engines.

As for MPG, my wagon get's better MPG now then it did new. That's what a great Tuner can do for you. You can have HP and good mpg. My 09 Spec B has gotten over 31mpg on long highway drives.

When you have the tranny out for a rebuild, look into Moore Performance Blast Plates, wish I had cone those years ago. My 5mt shift's so much better with them.

There is a "cocktail" for the tranny that may help with grinding,

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=uncle+scotty%27s+cocktail&oq=uncle+scotty&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.10165j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Please tell me your not going to use Mobil 1 motor oil, there 5w-30 has been shown to be ... not good for these engines.

 

As for MPG, my wagon get's better MPG now then it did new. That's what a great Tuner can do for you. You can have HP and good mpg. My 09 Spec B has gotten over 31mpg on long highway drives.

 

When you have the tranny out for a rebuild, look into Moore Performance Blast Plates, wish I had cone those years ago. My 5mt shift's so much better with them.

Cocktail sounds like it should be a good answer. I was using 75-90 Mobil 1 for my trans but I’ll save it for my diff and use the cock tail on the trans.

I’ll use Castrol for engine oil and hopefully 10-30 or so.

True but I don’t have money for a tune at the moment.

I still think the vf40 will do me just fine.

I’ll have to do that but I think the trans still has a good amount of life left.

The Blast Plates can be installed anytime the tranny is out of the car.

Castrol is good oil.

With a VF40 you'll want to keep on top of oil changes and always keep the oil topped off.

I got 142,000 miles out of my vf40.

You'll want to remove the banjo filters too, there is a thread about removing them.

I also bolt the turbo on the up pipe, which you should replace with a catless one.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258737&stc=1&d=1511444932

We also remove the EGT probe and use a 2.2k ohm resistor in the connector so you don't get a CEL for the missing probe.

I'm sure you will need a tune or some way to install stock or stage 1 map for the vf40. Your car is currently tuned for the turbo and parts on it now. I'm pretty sure even the fmic and vf40 need a tune.

Just trying to say, it may not be as cheap and easy as you think to go back to stock. Also with a proper tune, the mpg is not a loss but can be a increase when driven right.

I think I said earlier, these cars don't do well on the stock tune.

Everyone leaves the intake manifold, and throttle body attached when motor is being pulled?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Crap.. I own a 5EAT...

What's the weight of the transmission and engine? I always would pull the trans, then engine on my foxbodies. Then install the trans and engine assembled.

Wonder how bad it would be to pull both?

Everyone leaves the intake manifold, and throttle body attached when motor is being pulled?

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258738&stc=1&d=1511455616

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258739&stc=1&d=1511455635

Then remove the intake from the Heads as an assemble.

The Blast Plates can be installed anytime the tranny is out of the car.

 

Castrol is good oil.

 

With a VF40 you'll want to keep on top of oil changes and always keep the oil topped off.

 

I got 142,000 miles out of my vf40.

 

You'll want to remove the banjo filters too, there is a thread about removing them.

 

I also bolt the turbo on the up pipe, which you should replace with a catless one.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258737&stc=1&d=1511444932

 

 

We also remove the EGT probe and use a 2.2k ohm resistor in the connector so you don't get a CEL for the missing probe.

 

I'm sure you will need a tune or some way to install stock or stage 1 map for the vf40. Your car is currently tuned for the turbo and parts on it now. I'm pretty sure even the fmic and vf40 need a tune.

 

Just trying to say, it may not be as cheap and easy as you think to go back to stock. Also with a proper tune, the mpg is not a loss but can be a increase when driven right.

 

I think I said earlier, these cars don't do well on the stock tune.

Well the turbo on the car wasn’t even tuned for either. The stock one was but the guy I bought the car from out the turbo and said it “ran fine” when it doesn’t.

I do have an access port so that can help with running the stock map.

My car needs a tune as is. Which is why I’d ideally like to get the stock turbo then go get the tune to optimize my setup.

The car also has a external wastegste right now so I’d be ditching that as I’m going to an internal on the stock turbo.

You did say stock tune is optimal which is being considered. I’ll run the best tune I can shortly after I get my setup going. I’m also looking to do the Jdm radio setup. A good radio is essential for dd.

Just to be sure, the stock tune is not the best for these cars, you want to be at least on Cobb AP stage 1 which is for the stock turbo. If your doing a catless up pipe and a 3" catted downpipe for the vf40, go with a stage 2 Cobb tune.

That's where these cars are happiest.

Just to be sure, the stock tune is not the best for these cars, you want to be at least on Cobb AP stage 1 which is for the stock turbo. If your doing a catless up pipe and a 3" catted downpipe for the vf40, go with a stage 2 Cobb tune.

 

That's where these cars are happiest.

I hear ya man. I'm planning to put my accessport back on one of these days and see what's currently with the car at the moment.

I plan to probably settle at stage one.

Update, I got the jdm HVAC double din unit and I'm going with the Sony xav xa100.

I had the radio in my wrx and genuinely loved the head unit. It was easy to use and fits well.

I'm gonna bleed my clutch with my new mityvac tomorrow to make sure it works well.

I'm praying that fixes the issue with the clutch sticking to the floor.

I[m also gonna check a bunch of small stuff in the corner that I'm super excited for.

So I decided to return my bf40 and get a vf52 because regardless, I’d have to change my down pipe which is currently a 3 inch but with the vf52, it should match right up.

I’m also pretty excited to see how the car performs with that. One thing I was wondering is if the car will even be able to drive as a daily with the vf52 and no time. That’s with me just getting from point a to point b. I don’t wanna be in any position where I can’t drice the car because it’s my daily.

The vf52 will need a tune, you can contact http://www.tuningalliance.com or tuningalliance@gmail.com and tell Mike your set up which name brand DP and other things done and he can send you a MAP to load into the Cobb AP.

Tell him which injectors and fuel pump are on the car.

You really don't want to drive the car very much without a tune (keep it out of boost). Once tuned you'll enjoy the vf52 as a DD, I do.

The vf52 will need a tune, you can contact http://www.tuningalliance.com or tuningalliance@gmail.com and tell Mike your set up which name brand DP and other things done and he can send you a MAP to load into the Cobb AP.

 

Tell him which injectors and fuel pump are on the car.

 

You really don't want to drive the car very much without a tune (keep it out of boost). Once tuned you'll enjoy the vf52 as a DD, I do.

That’s awesome! Didn’t know he could literally email me a map to run on my car lol. Have any idea how much these tunes run for in general?

Also, if I did put on the vf52, I’d still be able to drive the car without hitting boost as you said which ideally, is the best case scenario for me.

Ya, you should def run at least a Stage 2 with this car. The original AFR was shit around 2800-3400 rpms (you would get a lean out and a terrible lag). This is the main reason that turbos died from what i can understand. As for all the issues you have; Id say vf-52 with converter for the FMIC. You get a much nicer torque curve out of the 52 over the 40... Actually enough to keep you back in your seat.

The cylinder behind the dash is probably a Boost controller. If you have hoses and power wires to it it probably proof by it going to a gauge.

I would keep that stage 2 clutch in there (unless you are in super traffic, constantly). The Stock clutches tend to give/smoke under any real pushing. The pedal push is probably the fact that you need to bleed it a ton more.

Was going to say, make sure to do the tune right before or after the turbo install. You don't want to run on any crazy setup with a new 52 in there.

Nice find on forged and worked engine.

If you want to get a stock head setup, you can pick up one from a stripped car for super cheap.

The other outlet on the turbo piping could either be for a BOV or a pressure sensor.

That’s awesome! Didn’t know he could literally email me a map to run on my car lol. Have any idea how much these tunes run for in general?

 

Also, if I did put on the vf52, I’d still be able to drive the car without hitting boost as you said which ideally, is the best case scenario for me.

You can see Mike's site in the Vendor Forum down below. I drove by his house again today. Busy place but is one of he best with these cars.

The tune will be so worth it...trust me/us.

Here's the other recommended Tuner, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cryotune-performance-november-promo-discount-10-15-off-calibrations-e-266385.html

Ya, you should def run at least a Stage 2 with this car. The original AFR was shit around 2800-3400 rpms (you would get a lean out and a terrible lag). This is the main reason that turbos died from what i can understand. As for all the issues you have; Id say vf-52 with converter for the FMIC. You get a much nicer torque curve out of the 52 over the 40... Actually enough to keep you back in your seat.

The cylinder behind the dash is probably a Boost controller. If you have hoses and power wires to it it probably proof by it going to a gauge.

I would keep that stage 2 clutch in there (unless you are in super traffic, constantly). The Stock clutches tend to give/smoke under any real pushing. The pedal push is probably the fact that you need to bleed it a ton more.

Was going to say, make sure to do the tune right before or after the turbo install. You don't want to run on any crazy setup with a new 52 in there.

Nice find on forged and worked engine.

If you want to get a stock head setup, you can pick up one from a stripped car for super cheap.

The other outlet on the turbo piping could either be for a BOV or a pressure sensor.

Thank you for the inputs! I’m extremely grateful for all of it including max’s As well! I’ll have the stage 2 in there for quite some time. I’ll have to see what’ll happen but I figured I’d keep the stock as a spare at this point because I already have it and I got a decent deal on it. But thank you! I’m gonna bleed the new slave tomorrow or so as I got a proper c clamp that’ll make it a hell of a lot better.

For the boost controller you speak of, it’s more near the left hand corner of the car by the radiator as well as oil pump kinda spot if that makes any sense at all.

You can see Mike's site in the Vendor Forum down below. I drove by his house again today. Busy place but is one of he best with these cars.

 

The tune will be so worth it...trust me/us.

 

Here's the other recommended Tuner, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cryotune-performance-november-promo-discount-10-15-off-calibrations-e-266385.html

Thanks! And trust me, I’m looking forward to the tune and what’ll come of it.

What’s more important for me is having everything ready to swap in as well as financially stable for the swap. I’ll probably contact Mike within a few weeks or so. For now, I’d rather get the car going with the slave issue etc and my new sound setup. I’ve got a few other goodies too.

After I’ve got all that done, first thing is to slap on the vf52 and tune!

I’ll try to get pics ASAP. I’m a huge picture whore so I have a lot to show.