Dear Diary....

I think you are local, NSFW. Maybe we can meet up. I gots the ATP GT35R in my sedan.

Yeah, I'd love to know what I'm missing out on. I saw where you mentioned selling your turbo a little while back and I thought about buying it... thought about it a lot, but decided to be content with something a little smaller.

I might be free this weekend but I gotta check with my GF first. I abandoned her last Saturday for the turbo thing, so I owe her one.

What clutch are you running?

Yeah, I'd love to know what I'm missing out on.

 

What clutch are you running?

You not missing out on anything....Im running the SB5-HDMM? and the streetlite fly.

Update...

I installed a manual boost controller. The good news is, I can cover quite a bit of the fuel and timing tables without reflashing. It's almost real time tuning: Pull over, pop hood, twist knob, drop hood, drive. Plus I can reach high boost with good control without spending time tweaking the boost tuning tables to reach each new boost level.

0,1,2 turns on the MBC = 11psi peak boost, 2.5 g/rev peak load

3 turns = 12.1 psi, roughly same load

4 turns = 14.5 psi, 2.6 g/rev tapering to 2.4

5 turns = 16.5 psi, 2.8 g/rev tapering to 2.5

6 turns = 19 psi tapering to 17, 3.2 g/rev tapering to 2.7

7 turns = 23psi tapering to 18.8, 3.4 g/rev tapering to 2.9

The bad news is, boost tapers more than I would like, so I'll have to tune boost the right way in order to get full power. 23 psi is nice, but I want to keep 21 or 22 at redline.

I have GT30 and GT52 tunes to look at (courtesy of Freon and Josh at the RomRaider forums), and even though they're different in some areas, they have pretty similar AFRs and timing at peak load. That made timing easier than I expected. I got the low boost timing pretty close on my own, then set high boost to a few degrees less than those tunes, interpolated between them, worked my way up to high boost with the MBC (tuning fuel along the way) and then started adding timing. WOT+Redline is about maxed out, but I haven't yet found the limit in the middle RPM range so there's work to do there.

Next steps are to raise midrange timing in the cells I can already reach, then add a boost control solenoid and get the rest of the boost and power at the top end, then go back to Drift Office see what their dyno says.

Much as I'd like to claim 23psi at 4000 RPM, I haven't been testing on flat ground, so I'm not sure if that's really valid. There's a good chance those pulls were in 2nd gear going uphill on a freeway onramp. I'm just trying to hit all the cells in the fuel and timing tables, real performance measurements will come later.

Not shown in those plots is just how rich the car runs during spoolup. I think that can be fixed with a blow-through MAF setup. Basically, move the MAF sensor from the inlet to the pipe that feeds air to the throttle body.

But I periodically read that blow-through MAF setups are a bitch to tune. Now that my TGVs are deleted I had this idea to use the TGV sensor inputs to read the signal from a second MAF sensor in the blow-through location. The ECU will still be looking at the MAF sensor in the stock location, but I'll log both of the voltages at once, and make pretty pictures in Excel. That should tell me whether or not blow-through is actually going to solve my spoolup AFR problem, and it will also give me a huge head-start on setting the MAF scaling set up for running blow-through - I think there's a good chance I can get it right on the first try.

So I ordered a MAF sensor from this for-sale thread, so I could run dual MAFs:

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117878

And of course right after I sent the "I'll take it" PM, the thread explodes with allegations that the seller is a douchebag. And although the seller said he was going to ship it a month ago, he didn't. And in the meantime I'm getting more any more annoyed with weird fueling issues and thinking that I should do the blow-through conversion sooner rather than later...

So I filed a dispute with paypal.

And then I got a tracking number.

The package should be here any day.

Let's just hope it's not a box of rocks. I want to fix my damn AFRs!

Bumpdate... I used the factory BCS to fix the taper I was getting with the MBC.

Going to a shop today to see how much it'll cost to have a blow-through MAF tube fabricated from aluminum. If it's too expensive I'll just buy more silicone elbows and roll my own.

Well, I could get the MAF tube itself off-the-shelf, but I want replace the whole section of pipe that runs from just above the timing belt cover back to the throttle body. The grey pipe on the driver's side here:

The MAF sensor will go in the straight area, near the fuse box. I might just keep the U-turn at the far end, and the slight angle at the near end, and use off-the-shelf parts (including MAF housing) to bridge the gap. But it would be pretty cool to replace the whole section with a custom-made pipe instead... as long as it's not too expensive.

I was going to inquire this morning but other stuff came up. Maybe in a couple hours.

$300 to replace that pipe with a custom 3" piece flanged for MAF sensor and BOV.

Decisions, decisions...

Fuel pressure regulator relocated again... Much more tidy, though I still need to cut a few inches off the fuel lines that run from the firewall to the FPR, BOV coming in the mail this week.

Blow-through conversion the week after Halloween, maybe... it's going to happen for sure, I just don't yet know which shop is going to make the new pipe.

Whiteline swaybars and (klunk) Kartboy endlinks (klunk-klunk) installed last night at the big meat (klunk) with lots of (klunk) help from Tommyh.

I have (klunk) mixed feelings about the (klunk) Kartboy end(klunk)links. Every time I turn the wheel in a different (klunk) direction, I hear a bunch of (klunk) DAMMIT!

Gonna try loosening them, (klunk) but I think the (klunk) best that could do is (klunk) make the klunks a bit softer (klunk klunk klunk).

That's another option, for sure.

Do you have Kartboy endlinks as well, or another brand?

front only klunking ??

i bet tommy f'd em up while stumbling around in the pit....lol

That's another option, for sure.

 

Do you have Kartboy endlinks as well, or another brand?

Yep they've been on the car for about a year and a half or so.

Apparently I wasn't paying attention, I didn't realize you had the very same ones.

I'll torque them down hard next weekend, then.

They're torqued down hard now, and the klunks have stopped. They're also installed in the 'stiff' positions on the Whiteline swaybars, which made a noticeable difference.

Also put in the KillerB oil pickup. +5whp!

Also put a short-shifter in my girlfriend's 325iX. She's stoked about that. The shift lever throw went from ridiculous to perfect.

Clutch started slipping about a week ago. I was hoping to make it 'til the end of ski season on the stock clutch but I guess not. I was in the middle of a 3rd-gear pull and right about when peak boost hit, RPM went up and my speed didn't. It grabbed before I realized what was happening, but this is clearly the beginning of the end.

So, I've been learning everything I can about clutches. See here:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127691

Clutchmasters FX300 notes:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27443332&postcount=5

Clutch started slipping about a week ago. I was hoping to make it 'til the end of ski season on the stock clutch but I guess not. I was in the middle of a 3rd-gear pull and right about when peak boost hit, RPM went up and my speed didn't. It grabbed before I realized what was happening, but this is clearly the beginning of the end.

 

So, I've been learning everything I can about clutches. See here:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127691

Read what I wrote about the bullyclutch.

Read what I wrote about the bullyclutch.

In that thread, or just in general? Do you have their stage 1, or stage 2?

Looking at the options on their web site, their description of stage 2 did not inspire much confidence. Increased torque capacity 60%, suitable for "milder forced induction setups." I realize yours is working well for you, but still...

And unfortunately their next step up is a puck-style clutch, which I'm hoping to avoid.

Right now the leading contender is a Clutchmasters "FX300," if I can just confirm that a complete 06 WRX stack (clutch, fly, pp) will fit into an 05 LGT. For some reason they only list them for 07-08 LGTs. It is similar in design to the Bullyclutch "stage 2" (segmented kevlar disk) but for the WRX application they claim 110% increase over stock, and I'm pretty sure the 06 WRX clutch is stronger than the LGT clutch was in the first place.

http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.php?module=site&action=GetPage&id=17&nav=leftnav_products.tpl

In that thread, or just in general? Do you have their stage 1, or stage 2?

 

Looking at the options on their web site, their description of stage 2 did not inspire much confidence. Increased torque capacity 60%, suitable for "milder forced induction setups." I realize yours is working well for you, but still...

 

And unfortunately their next step up is a puck-style clutch, which I'm hoping to avoid.

 

Right now the leading contender is a Clutchmasters "FX300," if I can just confirm that a complete 06 WRX stack (clutch, fly, pp) will fit into an 05 LGT. For some reason they only list them for 07-08 LGTs. It is similar in design to the Bullyclutch "stage 2" (segmented kevlar disk) but for the WRX application they claim 110% increase over stock, and I'm pretty sure the 06 WRX clutch is stronger than the LGT clutch was in the first place.

 

http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.php?module=site&action=GetPage&id=17&nav=leftnav_products.tpl

I have their carbon Kevlar disc IIRC, but my Pressure Plate is their stage4 version. That holds a lot mroe then their stage2.

They key to them winning my business is their needle bearing design that reduces friction in the PP, but allows for more clamping force.

When my clutch was first put in we compared it to other LGTs (06 year) on the lot, and there was no difference in pressure required to push the clutch pedal. (ACT does have a slight increase)

From their site:

 

In the clutch world, having your cake and eating it has always been a constant struggle so to speak.

Increasing a pressure plates clamp force results in a stiff pedal and also adds additional stress on critical components such as thrust bearings.

Our Patent Pending RXX Technology in short, is floating needle bearings that replaces the cast pivot point. This helps reduce the pedal effort due to the rotation of the bearings when the Belleville springs is compressed. It also gives you a more progressive and precise point of release when the spring is decompressed.

On average, this technology yields in increase in clamp load of 100% over O.E.M and yet, has a similar engagement for drastic wear reduction on surrounding components. So there you have it, a revolutionary solution that results in more holding power without an increased pedal effort.

So it is about double the clamping force, and then of course the clutch disc can take alot more abuse as well. Unlike many aftermarket clutches that rebuild a new OEM PP, this one has a very progressive feel to it, most are more on/off then OEM.

I had no problem launching it on the track to consistent 1.7 60 foot times (1st time ever to the 1/4) and I have done data-logged (confirmed by GPS) 3.8 and 3.9 0-60 mph times.

Thanks, I didn't realize you were running a mixed setup. I just sent them email to see if they can build another one. I'm actually not sure if I want much "progressive feel" or not... when I drove Tracer-X's car with its ACT HDMM setup, I actually liked the shorter throw of the clutch pedal.

But it's not a that big of a deal, and there aren't very many options for high-torque full-disc clutches, so I may end up following your lead here. Thanks again for the extra info.

I emailed Bullyclutch over the weekend and sent a followup around noon today with no response. Going to call them Tuesday...

Clutchmasters got back to me but they're not sure about compatibility. I'm thinking pretty seriously about ordering their 06 WRX setup anyway, and hoping for the best... Heard from a guy on NASIOC that said his FX300 is working well for him with a 60 lb/min turbo.