legacy gt build any weak points and a few questions.

This motor.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/291315373679?nav=SEARCH

Heads machined and valve job done.

VF 52 turbo

Upgraded top mount

Already have invidia dp and catless UP

Exhaust at a friends shop 2.5-3"

Fresh trans rebuild (need to find a shop Chicago area or shipped)

Sti pinks in front wagons in read

Shock opinions?

Already have white front sway bay, might as well do a rear.

Stock fuel tuned at a reputable shop

I want a 325-350whp DD street monster. Over built so I'm not fixing it all the time, not loosing too much if any fuel efficiency. Are my axles going to be a problem?

Any suggestions or concerns are appreciated.

Remove the banjo filters, both of them.

You'll need injectors and fuel pump to get those WHP #'s.

See my click here llink.

Look back a couple page here you'll find a thread with all the answers by "MrTris".

Don't be in a hurry to spend your money.

Look in the GB forum and see what's out there for suspension deals.

My wagon has Koni yellows and Epic springs, the car handles better then my Spec B.

Do you have all the stuff in your 1st post or thinking about buying that ej255 ?

Here's another thread to read, BMB is a trusted member here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html

Here's MrTris, thread,

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-rebuild-shopping-list-226719.html

Buying that EJ255 I want the car overbuilt, for reliability issues as a DD.

I have a totaled out 05 front end damage, just grabbed another one with compression in the crank. Was going to sell the running long block and that builder offered to buy the broken short block. Part out whats left of the totaled one.

I'll take builder suggestions too. Engine internals and Subaru trans scare me.

Catless up/dp whiteline front sway bar, other than that, nothing right now just making a plan and I have something else to get around in so I'm in no hurry.

Stop, stop, stop. STAHP!

If your build starts with eBay, you're gonna have bad time. Get off of eBay, now. Buy quality Brand-Name parts from reputable, authorized dealers. If you go the cheap route, expect that it will neither perform to your expectations or be reliable, long-term.

If you're shooting for about 350whp, you'll be fine on a stock motor. It's all in the tune. On that note, I see nothing about a Cobb AP or an open-source tune on your list. A used V2 AP can be had for ~$350, and there a few for sale here right now in the Member Classifieds. Tune is not optional, it's a must-have.

The "reliability" issues are mostly due to the tune and the driver. If it's reliability you're after, a forged motor isn't what you want.

See my Shopping List -- you can reach your power goal on a stock motor which is about half of what you're tryna spend on that forged motor. Furthermore, for that price, I'd expect it to be their closed-deck version, which it is not. No matter what's inside that shortblock, it's overpriced for what you're getting.

As for catless bits -- there are no gains to be had for going catless. Do you and the environment a favor and get the catted versions. I personally recommend Cobb, but the Grimmspeed units are looking pretty nice these days.

There's a LOT of reading you need to be doing before you start buying parts - My Shopping List is a good start, as well as my rebuild thread, and some of the other rebuild threads around here.

I am not rebuilding the motor myself, I am going go have someone who has done 100's if not 1000's of subaru motors do it, and come with some sort of warranty.

I still need to check out the engine builders on here and I know I have more research to do... this is a jumping off point for me.

There are plenty of reputable tuners in my area, it is going on a dyno probably open source.

I will have the exhaust have a cat in the mid pipe, i don't like the smell, stains, or environmental factors of no cat. Just don't feel like I need 3 cats.

I am not rebuilding the motor myself, I am going go have someone who has done 100's if not 1000's of subaru motors do it, and come with some sort of warranty.

 

I still need to check out the engine builders on here and I know I have more research to do... this is a jumping off point for me.

 

There are plenty of reputable tuners in my area, it is going on a dyno probably open source.

 

I will have the exhaust have a cat in the mid pipe, i don't like the smell, stains, or environmental factors of no cat. Just don't feel like I need 3 cats.

You really don't even need an exhaust unless you simply must have "dat subbie rumbl".

Uppipe. You DO need a catless UP, though. Score a used STi-takeoff from NASIOC for about $75 (Don't pay more than that). There are aftermarket options there, of course, as well, but they're like, $150+. Your choice.

As far as a builder goes. . . Well, I've yet to hear of a forged motor that comes with a warranty that the builder has actually stood behind. (where's Waspy's rebuild thread when you need it?) Again, it's all well and good that you want a custom-built motor that's "overbuilt" and will give you peace of mind, however, if this is just going to be a DD, you'll be perfectly fine with a stock motor.

I have over 45,000 miles on my stock ej257 at 21psi. The car will spin the tires on a roll'on in first gear this time of year, that's on stock fueling.

OP, where do you live ? Some of us know great places to take your stuff and great Tuners. I'd be surprised how fast these cars are at around the 300whp level.

What tranny do you have ?

You have a lot of reading to do. Read the sticky's too. Take notes.

I do need that subie rumbl

Thanks for the help. Like I said I have time to do this right.

My brain has always said forged=better, may or may not be true I'm not an engine builder and not claiming to be one.

I'm going to contact a few of the sponsored vendors on here, what my expectations are and my concerns and work from there.

I have over 45,000 miles on my stock ej257 at 21psi. The car will spin the tires on a roll'on in first gear this time of year, that's on stock fueling.

 

OP, where do you live ? Some of us know great places to take your stuff and great Tuners. I'd be surprised how fast these cars are at around the 300whp level.

 

What tranny do you have ?

 

You have a lot of reading to do. Read the sticky's too. Take notes.

With in the next week or so I will have 2 working 5mts selling one to get the other to like new condition.

I do need that subie rumbl

 

Thanks for the help. Like I said I have time to do this right.

 

My brain has always said forged=better, may or may not be true I'm not an engine builder and not claiming to be one.

 

I'm going to contact a few of the sponsored vendors on here, what my expectations are and my concerns and work from there.

In some cases, yes, forged is better. However, for a daily driver, forged is more trouble than its worth. Also, I know you said you wanted overkill, but, that's too far over. Remember, forged internals don't save your motor from the stresses of everyday driving, nor will they allow more tolerance for abuse -- they can just handle more power. Forged is meant more for competition-type scenarios; not daily driving. These are pretty potent cars out of the box, there's just a few things that really need tweaking to make them perfect.

What you really need to think about is what and how you're going to use the car. You say you want a "monster DD" -- Well, are you shooting for a number, or are you looking for a feel? High-performance cars have always been (and always will be!) a Pay-to-Play game; that said, someone will always have more money than you. So, if you're looking for a car that will eat any and everything off the line, I hate to break it to you, but, you're gonna be two things at the end of this: Disappointed and Broke.

If you want a fun car that's faster than most, and gives you a good time getting from A to B, then build for that. If you're shooting for a HP goal, you're gonna have to shell out for it. There are quite a few of us who have been dyno'd at less than 300 and have fast cars that bring a smile to our faces and a surprise to other drivers on the daily.

We all started right where you are now -- "I need forged" and "moAR Powah!" But, after tallying it up (and subsequently deciding we don't have that much money or aren't willing to spend that much) or, in my case, riding in a certain member's 335whp racewagon, we all, at some point, dialed back our lists a bit in favor of worry-free practicality. It becomes less about the numbers and more about using the power you have effectively and efficiently.

Decide how much you really want to spend, and then build around that.

Would the pinks be to rough for a DD? Suspension suggestions welcome.

I wanted to keep Bilsteins on my Spec B, so I went with the STi pinks an a fresh set of Bilsteins HD struts. IMO it's the perfect combo for a DD, but YMMV. The Bilsteins struts require Spec B strut mounts up front. There is plenty of info n the site.

MrTris you are probably one of the most helpful people I have ever ran across on any forum.

I suppose "monster" was a poor choice of words. Not shooting for any specific number, but 325-350 is more of a over build concern issue too. Will factory axles take it? Will my rear diff take it? Will a fresh rebuilt trans take it and for how long? Its things like that I'm trying to figure out. I don't want what I want to be my DD up on a lift every weekend.

It will probably be autocrossed for shits and giggles a few times, but I have some extra cash from an insurance settlement, a car to part out, and have a chance to build what I want for the first time.

MrTris you are probably one of the most helpful people I have ever ran across on any forum.

 

I suppose "monster" was a poor choice of words, 325-350 is more of a over build concern issue too. Will factory axles take it? Will my rear diff take it? Will a fresh rebuilt trans take it and for how long? Its things like that I'm trying to figure out. I don't want what I want to be my DD up on a lift every weekend.

 

It will probably be autocrossed for shits and giggles a few times, but I have some extra cash from an insurance settlement, a car to part out, and have a chance to build what I want for the first time.

I guess there's a first time for everything lol... I wouldnt build an LGT if I had money to play with thats for sure haha

There are people on this forum running that kind of power on stock internals and drive line, and they are fine as long as you aren't dumping the clutch and expecting to do burnouts.

However, your stock clutch will not hold up long at those power levels. Read up in the transmission section for clutch recommendations. Fueling and turbo is also on your radar, as the stock fueling will barely get you over the 300 mark and the stock VF-40 turbo really runs out of oomph in the upper rpm range.

I want a 325-350whp DD street monster. Over built so I'm not fixing it all the time, not loosing too much if any fuel efficiency. Are my axles going to be a problem?

Street monster as compared to what? I think street monster = 600awtq or 1000rwtq.

At 350wtq (torque is what makes your car go, horsepower is for bragging), you'll be breaking your 5MT fairly quickly. Especially if banging gears. You'll need to upgrade fueling, radiator, suspension, turbo, intercooler, remove banjo bolts, find a good tuner, upgrade your brake pads/disks/fluid, get the infamous oil line kit, get good at changing your oil, learn to like long startup idle times, if you don't do your own work find a better job/second job.

Given your posts so far, I'd suggest 250wtq as a starting point. When you get more money, then worry about adding another 100lbs of torque to your engine.

MrTris you are probably one of the most helpful people I have ever ran across on any forum.

 

I suppose "monster" was a poor choice of words. Not shooting for any specific number, but 325-350 is more of a over build concern issue too. Will factory axles take it? Will my rear diff take it? Will a fresh rebuilt trans take it and for how long? Its things like that I'm trying to figure out. I don't want what I want to be my DD up on a lift every weekend.

 

It will probably be autocrossed for shits and giggles a few times, but I have some extra cash from an insurance settlement, a car to part out, and have a chance to build what I want for the first time.

If you are autox in any category other than novice, you need to check the rules. 350 is going to put you into a class where you can't win. Cue theme from Rocky. Also check Rattsl thread on building a "street monster".

Axles aren't going to be your problem for long. You'll break your transmission first. Dumping the clutch is not going to get you a fast take-off. You'll need to slip it a bit. However, if running sticky tires, you'll break something sooner or later.

As someone else mentioned, building a mid-300's LGT is not the best use of money. Much cheaper cars to do that with.

MrTris you are probably one of the most helpful people I have ever ran across on any forum.

 

I suppose "monster" was a poor choice of words. Not shooting for any specific number, but 325-350 is more of a over build concern issue too. Will factory axles take it? Will my rear diff take it? Will a fresh rebuilt trans take it and for how long? Its things like that I'm trying to figure out. I don't want what I want to be my DD up on a lift every weekend.

 

It will probably be autocrossed for shits and giggles a few times, but I have some extra cash from an insurance settlement, a car to part out, and have a chance to build what I want for the first time.

Thanks, dude, much appreciated. You got one of my better posts, mostly because you don't come off as an idiot. Others are not so lucky, as I've been told I'm an asshole.

Even a fresh tranny rebuild won't hold up to abuse from missed shifts and general lack of stick skills. Stock clutch just won't cut it, either.

We've laid out a pretty good path for you here, but of course, feel free to choose your own adventure. Personally, I suggest the safe and easy route, which will allow you lots of room in the future, should you decide you want more power later: Follow my Shopping List/Rebuild plan, which will net you a pretty fun little ride without breaking the bank.

The good news is, you've got another ride and time to decide, many people in similar positions here, don't/didn't have that "luxury".

How mechanically inclined are you? Even if you've never done engine work before, with some basic tools, an engine crane and hoist, and a little help from us, you can have the immense pleasure of building your street machine with your own two hands. . . Think about it, I highly recommend that all true Subaru enthusiasts build their own Legacy.

I don't let other people touch my cars, except for alignments. I've done motor swaps, clutches, rebuilt a rear end before ect ect.

My father restores old cars for a hobby, the totaled one is stored at his place and the 05 with the blown motor is being shipped there next week.

He's got a 2 post lift in an out building, 2 stage trans jack, cherry picker, engine stand, between me and him we're set on hand tools. Oxy torch, mig welder, what I'm trying to get at is I have the supplies to do about anything.

Engine internals scare me still. I'll have to think on it. Got two weeks off work coming up and I want to strip both cars, put one back together when it starts to get warm again.

I think your reading comprehension sets you above and beyond most posters here so far

Driven stick for about 7 years, don't really wanna do a stage 3 clutch for driveability reasons, for brakes already planning on ebc greens and rotors with ss lines, 12mm oil pump, not skimping on oil feed side of things. Already have a basically new 06+ lwfw.TSK3 kit. I'm rambling now, just trying to put my shopping list together.

Thanks, dude, much appreciated. You got one of my better posts, mostly because you don't come off as an idiot. Others are not so lucky, as I've been told I'm an asshole.

 

Even a fresh tranny rebuild won't hold up to abuse from missed shifts and general lack of stick skills. Stock clutch just won't cut it, either.

 

We've laid out a pretty good path for you here, but of course, feel free to choose your own adventure. Personally, I suggest the safe and easy route, which will allow you lots of room in the future, should you decide you want more power later: Follow my Shopping List/Rebuild plan, which will net you a pretty fun little ride without breaking the bank.

 

The good news is, you've got another ride and time to decide, many people in similar positions here, don't/didn't have that "luxury".

 

How mechanically inclined are you? Even if you've never done engine work before, with some basic tools, an engine crane and hoist, and a little help from us, you can have the immense pleasure of building your street machine with your own two hands. . . Think about it, I highly recommend that all true Subaru enthusiasts build their own Legacy.

No 12mm oil pump. 11 is as high as you should go. Your stock is 10mm, and the successive sizes are for changes in AVCS -- from single to dual. So, unless you're planning on doing an entire STi swap (more than you'll want to take on), 11mm is safe,but stock is best.

Things you will need and don't have: Company 23 intake and exhaust cam gear tools, TiC cam gear bolts.

Thanks.

There has to be a well reviewed scooby shop in the local area around me, trans rebuild, dyno tune, head machining, valve job, maybe some more, they gotta cut me a deal at some point.

Chicago people help!!!!

Check out Moore Performance Blast Plates. I like the feel of them every time I shift.

A Spec 2 clutch or may be a 2+ will be enough.

My wagon is very quick in the lower gears, It's amazing the torque you have to pass cars on the back roads and I'm only making 300ftlbs.

Have you read my click here link ?