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Project Legacy Gt outback begins...


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what outback suspension would work on a 2011 legacy non gt if I was trying to go up a couple inches

 

You'd basically want to copy this guy. IIRC he suggested going with 2010-12 Outback springs.

Read this thread through, it makes it sound prohibitively expensive and time consuming to me.

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If you want a mild lift, I think you might be able to get away with getting outback struts and using your stock springs.

 

I believe the outback struts are about 1.5-2 inches longer than the legacy struts.

 

Top hats are exactly the same. You should be able to swap over your stock legacy springs.

 

You will most likely need to get a set of adjustable rear lower control arms to fix the camber in the rear.

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  • 2 weeks later...
So some pictures of the install.

 

1) Gt vs outback front strut. Notice the difference in length and the outback spring has half an additional coil.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/61e0bb094e94c6a91b2adda66f6d33ed.jpg

 

2) gt vs outback rear. The outback spring has one more coil.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/aeb263c6319677ad802da13574ddb154.jpg

 

3) gt vs outback vs megan racing adjustable toe link. The gt and outback rear toe links are identical. The megan racing link weights the most but is also very beefy.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/b0c9951e1865cf8a4c58ec20381d0d9c.jpg

 

4) gt vs outback (red) vs j2 engineering adjustable rear lca. Gt and outback, identical. The J2 lca was the heaviest. The length of the stock lca, eyelid to eyelid is approximately 17.75". To get the rear camber any where near stock after the suspension swap, I needed to adjust the J2 lca to approximately 18.25".

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/13802a48bd851501a8640fcc1dc57fa8.jpg

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/ead15c35fca892054b668610a936091c.jpg

 

5) rear upper control arms. Gt on the right and outback on the left. The gt arm has a lot more upward curvature to it. The location of ball joint is also at a different angle. Additional the gt abs line bracket which attaches to the upper arms are slightly different. Needed to drill a new hole to reattach to the outback upper arms. The Gt upper control arm slightly heavier than the outback arm.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/a2a58a6a09ae0b2a8800d270ecc5afda.jpg

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/8accfcd2f4b46592f3a97f1e0186f9cc.jpg

 

6) all parts installed.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/152ab54c508db30dd2181be868b5a6bd.jpg

 

 

If I reused the stock Lca and the non adjustable toe links, I will probably end up with massive toe in and massive positive camber in the rear.

 

Still no pictures of the car yet... Will install the 20mm spacers in the next few days. Scheduled an appointment for alignment this Saturday. Let's see how off my alignment is.

 

 

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

I REALLY want to do this to my 6th gen. Don't know where to begin or how much it'll cost. Freakin awesome ride, looks sweet!

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I REALLY want to do this to my 6th gen. Don't know where to begin or how much it'll cost. Freakin awesome ride, looks sweet!

You will need all the same parts from a 2015+ Outback. Start searching salvage yards like http://www.car-part.com.

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Sometimes stuff shows up on eBay as well. Also try www.mandmautosalvage.com, they have all the IIHS crash test vehicles, so the parts have pretty much no miles on them, but they usually crash the Legacy and not the Outback.

 

You need this stuff from a 2015 Outback...

 

- front spring/strut/tophat assemblies

- rear spring/shock/tophat assemblies

- rear upper control arms

- rear trailing arms

- rear toe links (possibly, I'm not for sure on this, your stock ones may work)

 

I suspect that the 6th Gen will be like the 5th Gen, front upper spring seats do not cross over between Legacy and Outback, so that is why I recommend that you just get the whole spring/shock/tophat assembly, then you don't need to worry about spring compressors and swapping stuff around between them.

Edited by GTEASER
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  • 3 weeks later...

I am about $1000 into the project right now to get to this point.

 

I also put on the new wheels, 18x8, +35 offset, 235/50/18.

 

I am pretty happy about the car so far.

 

I still have to install the following,

 

-Megan solid front LCA bushings

-Perrin steering lock down kit

-Perrin rear diff lock down kit

-Perrin subframe lock down kit

-Torque solution drive shaft solid bushing

-Primitive Racing caster/camber front strut hats.

 

http://s14.postimg.org/rmv8gen1d/20151024_152921_Richtone_HDR.jpg

 

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Edited by rpmk104
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I am about $1000 into the project right now to get to this point.

 

I also put on the new wheels, 18x8, +35 offset, 235/50/18.

 

I am pretty happy about the car so far.

 

I still have to install the following,

 

-Megan solid front LCA bushings

-Perrin steering lock down kit

-Perrin rear diff lock down kit

-Perrin subframe lock down kit

-Torque solution drive shaft solid bushing

-Primitive Racing caster/camber front strut hats.

 

http://s14.postimg.org/rmv8gen1d/20151024_152921_Richtone_HDR.jpg

 

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

If I wanted to pull the trigger on a project like this, what are all the parts needed?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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So I installed the perrin rear subframe lock down kit and the rear differential lock down kit (both for the wrx) fits perfectly.

 

By far the best upgrade so far. The rear suspension is just so solid over every bump. I estimate the stock rear subframe bushings allow at least half and inch of up and down movement. The subframe lock down kit completely remove this dead space.

 

Also feel a much better power transfer to the rear wheels with the diff lock down kit. No more drivetrain excess movement during wot. Car feels more powerful and much better response to throttle.

 

 

I also had a strange shimmy between 55-75mph that comes and goes ever since I lifted the car. I can confidently say that the rear subframe lock down kit has eliminated this shimmy completely.

 

Total cost is around $250 and about a two hour to install both.

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Edited by rpmk104
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http://s7.postimg.org/r0esqo2ln/IMG_20151220_130720203.jpg

 

http://s7.postimg.org/xcty0i5nv/IMG_20151220_133503233.jpg

 

http://s7.postimg.org/x2mfh5r1n/IMG_20151220_133519799.jpg

 

http://s7.postimg.org/i97rwejaj/IMG_20151220_140700460.jpg

 

http://s7.postimg.org/6vl8l78rv/IMG_20151220_140657316.jpg

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...
2002-2007 has a completely different rear diff carrier and suspension than our cars. 2008-2016 rear diff carrier and suspension is identical to our cars.

 

So to clarify/confirm, if I found a similar product from a different manufacturer that was listed to fit the 08 WRX, it would fit my car? (for rear subframe and rear diff)

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  • 1 month later...

...hmmm, I'm pretty sure I saw the OP on 95 Friday night around the Delaware to Maryland border (on our way back from NYIAS). It looks pretty neat in person, I was stalking you in the silver Tribeca (well until I had to stop for gas) :lol: I was able to convince my wife to snap a pic for me though, it's not often I run across other LGT.com people on the highway.

 

itiN7ew11o8rVWijg_onX2N7sPwZz_Yaw2lDoHHg0_Wq6ETHM8E-CAQnUJYc8Sxy92GN2GD0jPqvCVdICGT38GgTe1Bloc1hnFVhLIJMRVSdGvKVo263uu78ZjKwimoDieANiD9adaLzvYaOnTQSiHaQmWcl4J77yUpxB1Q5m-MMP1DQGOOHfj5ZHMp0PVqDutQWBYB5UzeYd7TZlCAHFou8Cwq__5_LbNENS2VKD-7rGI9wlNwAfCK19D1JX7PYPWzdGnEyJuvC0OnIKJoZdAoxVrPe3GpQ4S3BsgEXh690uuDgpkjYLic8SmTAOBytMsZ3X9hd1IN694XdF8_CcO1-UtlR1ZEBtwAt7YK8VFaLIfltVHVcmQt5FiOvpYNQmrvYaRX6kDoJbqqeg7qNesV66E7JZiGLuIhXtLq4cd-p2HEH4kFxfrYMzhPVKrlilYu6-vJZHRt-RefIAfNLO9s8M2m2r407pw195ygxiu6Kbo4xzwLP1ZEVdXMSFurEmWIbLw1M5Q1bmBR6wfs0MhE0HYNCYgxwRuhIVxXqS7kFFid9A6-4BUO3U3Oo8Bi1ulLrWw=w1119-h629-no

Edited by Syndicate
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