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Recently bought a used '05 Subaru Legacy - Planned preemptive maintenance list


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So I bought a used 2005 GT (5EAT) legacy a few weeks ago. After spending hours upon hours reading and educating myself on this amazing forum.. Ive started to come up with a to-do list of preemptive maintenance for my car. To make sure it keeps running properly for quite some time.

 

For now I want to keep mostly everything stock, with the exception of some gaskets / seals, fuel lines, and possibly the up pipe.

 

I've already swapped out the Oil / Filter for a high grade synthetic, & replaced the transmission fluid. Will probably get the front & rear diff swapped out by a dealership (unless its easy enough for me to do it?)

 

Here's my list so far.. and I was mainly wondering if there's anything else I should add to this list, or something not worth doing at all while I'm working in this area of the car.

 

- Replacement of O-rings

- Replacement of Banjo Bolt / Filter

- Replacement of intake manifold & tumbler gaskets

- Catless Up Pipe (any suggestions?)

- EGT sensor resistor fix / hack

- New fuel lines & Clamps (mainly the ones under the intake manifold that I cant keep re-tightening)

 

One of the main reasons I'm doing this, is because I'm getting the fuel smell on cold starts (from the fuel lines under the intake manifold being loose). I figure while I'm down there, i may as well replace all the rings / gaskets in the area.

 

I'm hoping to find some sort of improved fuel line/clamp that wont re-loosen... any suggestions? or can stock lines be used with a better clamp.

 

And is there anything else worth doing while I'm at it? Any input is appreciated.

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Any STi UP will work and the catless UPs from any impreza will also work.

 

New catless invidia UPs run about 150 ish.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

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Your items 1 and 3 are the same.

 

I just lockwired the end of the fuel line that was leaking a few years back. That stopped mine from leaking when it was cold out.

 

I just tighten them all when I had the intake off for the new short block. Search for "got some new stuff for engine R&R" I posted lots of pictures there.

 

You'll also want to gethe car the OEM MAP, it is flawed and can casue burnt valves.

 

Both my cars are on a MAP from http://www.tuningalliance.com a vendor here.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The front and rear differential fluid is relatively easy. The hardest part is finding the bits and filling them up. I used the Walmart brand 75W90. If I remember, it's either a full synthetic/blend. No issues with it.

Here's the link:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/differential-fluid-change-lgt-limited-slip-54865p2.html?highlight=differential

If you look on page 2, there's a pdf. Also, before you buy the tools, look at your rear differential to verify the bit you'll need.

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I'm assuming I should probably get the tuning map done after the Up Pipe replacement?

 

 

This mite help.

 

Reliability Modifications Thread;

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html

 

 

 

Mike

 

This link is perfect, thanks a bunch!.. Alot of whats on that list I found out the hard way by reading each thread on each topic.. but this will definitely give me a "to-do list" that hopefully will keep my car running well for a long time.

 

Probably in a year or so from now I'll start tackling some of the performance mods, starting with suspension and brakes. But for now its all preventative / maintenance stuff.

 

 

Also thanks to the others who posted. I think I may and try to tackle the front & rear diff change.. as I've already gotten quite familiar wit my car during the oil / tranny fluid change

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Your items 1 and 3 are the same.

 

I just lockwired the end of the fuel line that was leaking a few years back. That stopped mine from leaking when it was cold out.

 

here.

 

I thought items 1 and 3 are two different parts completely?.. though the replacement of them would be the same step / parts removal.. or am I mixing something up?

Item 1 is supposed to be the O-rings on the fuel injectors.. which i thought was different than the gaskets between the intake/tumbler?

 

So the lockwire is basically a way of preventing the stock clamps from loosening anymore?

 

Would it be easier to just get better designed clamps as a replacement? Just seems like extra stuff to get in the way in an already cramped hood area? or is a lockwire more of a better long term solution?

 

I'm probably going to replace the fuel line under the intake completely while I have that area all opened up, (gunna replace the O-rings / gaskets while i'm at it). I live in an area that has quite rapid temperature changes, and gets very cold in the winter.. so it plays havoc on these kinda things. I just want a permanent solution so i wanna do this the right way

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