Diehard Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 So I bought a used 2005 GT (5EAT) legacy a few weeks ago. After spending hours upon hours reading and educating myself on this amazing forum.. Ive started to come up with a to-do list of preemptive maintenance for my car. To make sure it keeps running properly for quite some time. For now I want to keep mostly everything stock, with the exception of some gaskets / seals, fuel lines, and possibly the up pipe. I've already swapped out the Oil / Filter for a high grade synthetic, & replaced the transmission fluid. Will probably get the front & rear diff swapped out by a dealership (unless its easy enough for me to do it?) Here's my list so far.. and I was mainly wondering if there's anything else I should add to this list, or something not worth doing at all while I'm working in this area of the car. - Replacement of O-rings - Replacement of Banjo Bolt / Filter - Replacement of intake manifold & tumbler gaskets - Catless Up Pipe (any suggestions?) - EGT sensor resistor fix / hack - New fuel lines & Clamps (mainly the ones under the intake manifold that I cant keep re-tightening) One of the main reasons I'm doing this, is because I'm getting the fuel smell on cold starts (from the fuel lines under the intake manifold being loose). I figure while I'm down there, i may as well replace all the rings / gaskets in the area. I'm hoping to find some sort of improved fuel line/clamp that wont re-loosen... any suggestions? or can stock lines be used with a better clamp. And is there anything else worth doing while I'm at it? Any input is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtClassShank Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Well for an Up pipe, look at getting an STI one from NASOIC. I think anything 2007 and earlier fit perfectly. I got mine for $75 shipped, but I think you could find one cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Any STi UP will work and the catless UPs from any impreza will also work. New catless invidia UPs run about 150 ish. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Your items 1 and 3 are the same. I just lockwired the end of the fuel line that was leaking a few years back. That stopped mine from leaking when it was cold out. I just tighten them all when I had the intake off for the new short block. Search for "got some new stuff for engine R&R" I posted lots of pictures there. You'll also want to gethe car the OEM MAP, it is flawed and can casue burnt valves. Both my cars are on a MAP from http://www.tuningalliance.com a vendor here. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 This mite help. Reliability Modifications Thread; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenfamily Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 The front and rear differential fluid is relatively easy. The hardest part is finding the bits and filling them up. I used the Walmart brand 75W90. If I remember, it's either a full synthetic/blend. No issues with it. Here's the link: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/differential-fluid-change-lgt-limited-slip-54865p2.html?highlight=differential If you look on page 2, there's a pdf. Also, before you buy the tools, look at your rear differential to verify the bit you'll need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diehard Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 I'm assuming I should probably get the tuning map done after the Up Pipe replacement? This mite help. Reliability Modifications Thread; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html Mike This link is perfect, thanks a bunch!.. Alot of whats on that list I found out the hard way by reading each thread on each topic.. but this will definitely give me a "to-do list" that hopefully will keep my car running well for a long time. Probably in a year or so from now I'll start tackling some of the performance mods, starting with suspension and brakes. But for now its all preventative / maintenance stuff. Also thanks to the others who posted. I think I may and try to tackle the front & rear diff change.. as I've already gotten quite familiar wit my car during the oil / tranny fluid change Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diehard Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 Your items 1 and 3 are the same. I just lockwired the end of the fuel line that was leaking a few years back. That stopped mine from leaking when it was cold out. here. I thought items 1 and 3 are two different parts completely?.. though the replacement of them would be the same step / parts removal.. or am I mixing something up? Item 1 is supposed to be the O-rings on the fuel injectors.. which i thought was different than the gaskets between the intake/tumbler? So the lockwire is basically a way of preventing the stock clamps from loosening anymore? Would it be easier to just get better designed clamps as a replacement? Just seems like extra stuff to get in the way in an already cramped hood area? or is a lockwire more of a better long term solution? I'm probably going to replace the fuel line under the intake completely while I have that area all opened up, (gunna replace the O-rings / gaskets while i'm at it). I live in an area that has quite rapid temperature changes, and gets very cold in the winter.. so it plays havoc on these kinda things. I just want a permanent solution so i wanna do this the right way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenfamily Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 You don't have to tune for the up pipe, but you do for the downpipe. The stock downpipe is amazingly restrictive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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