EJ20X swap?!

Engine's still running good and strong, no problems for now.

Check your pm!

I will be attempting the same swap also, did you use your existing engine harness or the ej20x harness? Im curious because ive seen the ej20x at the engine depot and its the same exact thing, what has me worried is the whole quad avcs thing.

I'm planning to do this as well the ej207 v7's are cheap and can handle power a lot better than the ej255's and 257's and breaking open a 2.5l for a set of cossies seems like a can of worms from all the disaster stories.

The EJ207 will require modification to work since they use the "old" style cam sensors and trigger(cam swap or switching ECU+DBC).

For you guys, now we know that we can do this swap pretty easily.

 

 

LOL ken block fanboi.

I too have questions about how you deal with quad AVCS?

If i am not mistaken you bought that engine from Robert?

Edited June 17, 2014 by chromes

The pissing match needs to end it's not about JDM vs USDM.

It's the built it differently in japan and the rest of the world. so technically it's STI vs SOA version STI.

The EJ207 motors are proven to have hold boost better and rev higher. No they don't get as much torque. The Electronics and sensors are 16 bit instead of 32.

The EJ255/257 make more torque but they blow ring lands like it's their job.

If you can't add information to the thread don't add your self to it.

Thank you to every one that posted information.

ACVS can be disabled on the exhuast side or you have to convert to the EJ207 wiring harness and ecu.

i believe the V7 is single acvs. the Version 7 is also the sweet spot to many for piston strength

Edited June 17, 2014 by Nightmaresmk

LOL ken block fanboi.

 

More like Chris Forsberg fanboi.

Just to revive this thread, I was able to do this swap on my Legacy without major issues. I just swapped over my intake manifold along with tgvs and injectors and used the usdm harness. Car started up with no issues at all, just running rich and in need of a tune. Since then the car has been taken apart again for more bolt ons. I already installed a twin scroll Kinugawa 20g turbo along with twin scroll headers and many more things. Now the challenge is to see how much power they can make and hold.http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w105/aalex2340/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141019_182239_zpshfhvhlly.jpghttp://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w105/aalex2340/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141019_184146_zpsnmhxubut.jpg

I think it's hilarious how adamant that guy was against it and how you just show up a bit later going "well, it's done, and it was pretty easy." Nice job, seems people around here aren't used to stuff that doesn't just bolt in. That being said, yeah, I'm sure there's a cheaper easier way to do it, but shoot, you have two turbos now! haha

Alex which version did you put in. I plan on eventually doing the V7 because the single acvs but i heard u need to change the intake cam?

This looks dope! Sub'd. someone should sticky this. This will probably be my future when sh*t hits the fan on my stock 05. can anybody give a quote on engine and all necessary bolt ons?

Alex which version did you put in. I plan on eventually doing the V7 because the single acvs but i heard u need to change the intake cam?

 

I did the version 9; basically like the version 7. If you can get away with running a 16-bit ECU, then you can keep the original cam, but will need a regular cable throttle. If you want to use your stock 32-bit ECU/DBW, then yes, you need to swap at least the intake cams and use the original LGT cam sensors. The 16-bit cams use "teeth" trigger and a VR sensor, while the 32-bit cams use slots and a hall-sensor. The cam timing teeth are also different(I know this because I tried using a signal converter, which didn't work).

 

There's several work-arounds regarding the driver's side cam sensor. I've seen slotting out the original bore(do this while when changing out the cam) and also tilting the sensor to read the marks. I used a smaller-diameter "pencil" hall sensor and just mounted it off-set in the bore, and use some spacers and rubber washers to help seal the bore. On the passenger side, you can just slot-out the hole on the sensor itself.

Edited October 24, 2014 by K2e2vin

sick ride! although im not a huge fan of gold rims on silver, Im liking yours! I love how clean your engine bay looks as well! Good luck with the new setup it looks like a lot of fun...

 

Mike

I didnt have to do anything to my intake cams or anything at all. I just popped my valve cover off on the passenger side to verify the coditions. I dont know exactly what version this motor is but from reading the tags it says ej20x

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w105/aalex2340/Mobile%20Uploads/20141024_071243_zpsohscgy39.jpg

The only thing I did have to do is air pump deletes on this motor, a close friend who gave me a hand doing this swap recently researched that label and says its from a 2008 s-gt. I have a video of the first time start up on my ig with the motor also if you guys want to check it out.http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w105/aalex2340/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2014-10-24-07-22-11_zpsvfhpsnch.png

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask away but like I said I didnt do much to the motor, just deleted the air pump system off it since my car never came with it, and I know im going to be taking off a few emissions controls. So all I needed to do was swap my usdm harness along with tgvs and injectors and change the knock sensor so it could hook up to my existing connector. Motor was primed and turned on the very first try

sick ride! although im not a huge fan of gold rims on silver, Im liking yours! I love how clean your engine bay looks as well! Good luck with the new setup it looks like a lot of fun...

 

Mike

 

Thanks man I appreciate it, im not a big fan either of my wheels right now but I do plan to get them powder coated a different color sometime soon. Il be posting up the engine bay in the next couple days after its been completed

I didnt have to do anything to my intake cams or anything at all.

 

I think that only applies to the older motors /STi motors. The version 7 and 9 motors we were talking about are EJ207s. The EJ20X is a JDM Legacy engine? I remember looking at different ECU maps and do remember the Legacies started using 32-bit before the STi though.

yes ej20x is engine found in auto jdm legacy's

yes ej20x is engine found in auto jdm legacy's

 

Hey I just seen that you also have a ej20x with a 20g twin scroll, any reviews about it? I also have a 20g with a few bolt ons but I have yet to fully drive it and enjoy it. Let me know everything I will soon experience with my set up lol.

Mine is ej20y. Same here only have it fitted a week and need a tune before I can enjoy it properly!!!

Nice, I have the kinugawa headers, up pipe and twin scroll 20g with no billet wheel. Technically I have a ej20x but on a 5 speed lol. Hopefully we both put down good numbers soon.

did you have any issues getting the kinugawa up pipe to fit? My mechanic said mine was fouling on the subframe so he used a stock vf36 uppipe instead

I dont remember having any clearance issues with the up pipe, tomorrow il be putting the car on a lift and il check to make sure. Il take some pics also.