DIY Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Walk-through w/.pdf

An oldie but goodie. Still glad this is around.

Excellent write up!!!! I'll be tackling this tomorrow.

Had my left rear out again today, had to bend that shield on the axle back because it was chaffing my wheel speed sensor. Here's that thread for reference if someone wants more pictures.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/left-rear-wheel-speed-sensor-257549.html

 

Used a two jaw gear puller to get the hub out, without damaging it.

 

Also used Aero-Kroil Silicone as the penetrating fluid. It cost more but is pretty amazing stuff. https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=aero-kroil&oq=aero-kroil&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.6263j0j8

Edited November 11, 2016 by Max Capacity

Aero Kroil - amazing stuff. Best release agent I've ever used where rust and corrosion is concerned.

Aero Kroil is worth its weight in gold. I used to take numerous seized components apart. Just give it enough time to work. I went through half can while doing the H6 head gaskets on wife's Tribeca, those timing chain covers are aluminum and are held together and to the long block by subaru adhesive and what feels like a million bolts. People crack the rear one while trying to pray it off dry. Spray spray, let sit, and mine came of all intact and without much hassle.

 

Doing the rear wheel bearing this weekend, mine makes loud noise.

Replaced the rear right wheel bearing last night. All went eventless, but since I was heading into night I almost forgot to take the speed sensor out, thank for the write-up for mentioning it!

 

One tip I'd add is that if the bolts on the old bearing are hard to move, hit the side of the old wheel bearing with some heat. HD propane torch is perfect for that. Left upper bolt on mine was not willing to come off at all. So I gave the ear of old bearing about 30 seconds of heat treatment and then applied Aero Kroil to it. Came right out.

 

SBT thanks again for the write-up. Real time saver! Special thanks for torque values so I don't have to go through FSM to find them.

Edit: Good thing I'm better with cars than computers.

 

Huge thanks for this write up! As usual, the right tools make all the difference. Thankfully, my wife is cool with me buying necessary tools as I take on these projects.

 

Passenger side took way too long to admit, but I could only hit it for an hour or two every other day or so.

 

Roadblock #1. Big enough breaker bar to take off the axle nut - thank you Harbor Freight.

 

Roadblock #2. Overcoming the weak-ass threads for the rotor extraction bolts. Because I was replacing pads and rotors anyway, I used the method of a threading a long bolt through a nut in the brake caliper mounting holes and forcing the rotor off. I'm probably wording that horribly. Nonetheless, thank you YouTube for the tip.

 

Roadblock #3. A good tool to pull the hub off. The idea of a slide hammer just freaked me out, so I pulled the trigger on a Craftsman gear puller after reading the mixed reviews of the Harbor Freight units.

 

Roadblock #4. Lost a caliper bolt! Doh! Thank you local Subaru parts department.

 

Once I had the right tools and the experience of doing the passenger side, the driver side took just a couple hours.

 

I feel bad for you east-coast guys with all the corrosion. With the exception of the rotors, everything came apart relatively easy on my 150k mile CO car.

 

Amazing how much more quiet it is in the wagon now. I can hear my exhaust better and now it's especially clear my tires are about shot (loud!).

 

Again, big thanks for this post!

Edited November 23, 2016 by Richard T

I'm sure I've said it before, but if I didn't, spray those threaded holes in the rotor with PB Blaster and put some anti-seize on the threads of the 8mmx1.25 bolt you use to thread into the rotor to back it off the hub.

Awesome write-up! I printed your directions and was able to do my rear passenger side in a hair over an hour. Tips were great, photos excellent, and overall a great, helpful post.

Thanks for this write-up - very helpful changing mine last night.

 

A couple of tips re: puller and saving time... Before you jack up the car, pry the center cap out of the wheel, exposing the axle nut. Put your socket with extension on it and back off the nut without worrying about the pinged lock. With a breaker bar on the socket you will blast right through it and the weight of the car on the wheel prevents it from turning. Back that nut off about a 1/2 inch or so. Take the breaker bar off, leaving the socket with extension on the nut. Using a heavy hammer, smack the back of the extension 1 or 2 sharp raps. The spline should crack loose from the hub and slide in the hub. You can go ahead and remove the nut and jack up the car to remove the wheel and continue.

I used this thread to replace my right rear yesterday. This was one of the few first time maintenance items where I never got to the point of questioning my abilities and giving up. Everything was straight forward thanks to this guide. Also, thank you Subaru for giving the spec.B the aluminum components. I'm sure that saved a ton of rust after 9 years and 120k miles.

Thank you OP for the nice detailed walk through. I just replace both rears on my 07 Outback with SKF units. 20v impact and hub puller made the job smooth and quick (2hrs for both). Also not having severe rust and corrosion definitely helps.

Thanks to OP and the other commenters in this thread. Did my rear DS wheel bearing this weekend and this made it pretty straightforward (or, would have...)

 

Like some other poor rust belt saps, removing the original hub assembly from the knuckle was a complete PITA. They were basically fused together with rust. First, I tried using a 3 arm puller to separate them - total failure. The arms on the puller actually started bending rather than pulling the hub off.

 

After that, I switched to a 5lb slide hammer. This worked pretty quickly (or so I thought)... except it actually separated the front and rear halves of the bearing assembly, leaving the rear half seized to the knuckle/backing plate.

 

Once that happened, my last resort was to remove the entire e-brake assembly, and use a combination of a torch + 8lb sledge to beat the shit out of the assembly until it finally cracked loose. Hallelujah!

 

Installation was pretty easy, and I used this excellent guide to reassemble the brake assembly and get that working properly again. I used a Detroit Axle unit (~ $45) and it seems great so far - nice and quiet and no ABS light.

 

Think I'll take it a shop for the right side...

I can't remember where I posted this, but I wonder if this would work for the rears? Good tip for anyone who has trouble with removal.

 

If you guy's let the PB Blaster do its work, may be use a slide hammer for a few hit's, let the PB do it thing, use the slide hammer, let the PB do it works while you get a bite to eat and then try the slide hammer again, you have better luck.

That's what I did a few years back in this thread.

 

I now use this stuff, more money but works better.

 

https://www.bing.com/search?q=aerokriol&src=IE-TopResult&FORM=IETR02&conversationid=

I embarked on this journey this afternoon. My noisy passenger side rear was MUCH worse than I expected as far as play. Drivers side rear had some play too, so I'm doing both at once. I don't have parts yet, but I also don't want to drive the car in this condition, so i figured I'd spread out the disassembly work over a few days while i wait for the parts to show up.

 

Any up-to-date recommendations on the best brand? I'm leaning towards Timken, the photos on RockAuto show an NSK bearing. Other brands, like Moog, show an unmarked (*cough*probablychinese*cough*) bearing.

 

I have all the easy stuff done. Axle nuts are off. Brakes and abs sensors are off. Drivers side cv splines popped right out, passenger side is very much stuck in the hub. Soaked everything thoroughly in PB Blaster to marinade overnight & will be picking up the appropriate puller tomorrow, with fingers crossed.

Timken and NSK have been the choice for a while.

 

I think NAPA can get both.

Timken are good bearings, but they no longer use NSK, they seem to use their house brand now (I've bought 4 timken wheel bearings in last 2 months). Nerveless they are working perfectly so far.

 

Moog used to cause issues with our ABS sensors, not sure if that's still the case.

 

 

If your hub pops out, like in dishwab's post, you can loosen the 4 bolts, but don't take them out, then tap on each one till the hub detaches from the knuckle. In the rear you can get a screw driver in between knuckle and bearing after a few hits, which will help you pry it off.

I wound up getting Timken bearings, but as noted above it's no longer an NSK bearing but I went ahead and put them in anyway. I've definitely felt smoother-rolling bearings in my life... so I am hoping they hold up. If not, i slathered everything in anti-seize on the way back in so it should be a 30 minute job next time around. I'm fairly certain these were the original bearings, with 210K miles!

 

Everything actually went very smoothly once i got the right side axle out of the hub. The puller i rented from the parts store worked like a charm for that task, wish I'd had it from the start. Upon reassembly I had to use my dremel to undo a bit of sledge-hammer damage on the end of the axle, so i could get the axle nut back on

 

Everything actually went very smoothly once i got the right side axle out of the hub. The puller i rented from the parts store worked like a charm for that task, wish I'd had it from the start. Upon reassembly I had to use my dremel to undo a bit of sledge-hammer damage on the end of the axle, so i could get the axle nut back on

 

 

That's why you hold a piece of 2x4 over the end of the axle, and/or put the nut back on before you wack it.

I've played this game for quite a few years on FWD cars

 

I've destroyed threads before pounding on the axle nut, so i don't do that anymore.

I've tried using a wood block but it doesn't transfer enough energy.

I've used a brass drift before with success, but don't have one.

 

I was really impressed by the puller, will definitely go straight to that next time for any stuck splines. Horrible photo, but this is the one i used:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-master-hub-puller-kit-648608/9150001-P

Timken are good bearings, but they no longer use NSK, they seem to use their house brand now (I've bought 4 timken wheel bearings in last 2 months). Nerveless they are working perfectly so far.

 

Moog used to cause issues with our ABS sensors, not sure if that's still the case.

 

 

If your hub pops out, like in dishwab's post, you can loosen the 4 bolts, but don't take them out, then tap on each one till the hub detaches from the knuckle. In the rear you can get a screw driver in between knuckle and bearing after a few hits, which will help you pry it off.

 

 

Ordered two rear Timkens from rockauto last week, both were NSK.

Just installed a Timken rear wheel bearing and I have no issue to report after 400+ miles of driving.

I guess I should update too, I just passed 50k miles on my rear right and front right Timken bearings, and 40k on my rear left bearings. All are kicking fine still, but I did reground the whole car and rear diff shortly after installing the bearings.

I've played this game for quite a few years on FWD cars

 

I was really impressed by the puller, will definitely go straight to that next time for any stuck splines. Horrible photo, but this is the one i used:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-master-hub-puller-kit-648608/9150001-P

 

 

AllTrade - an LA-based company - makes this set for several companies including PowerBuilt.

 

 

 

Better Picture of the set. It's AllTrade 648608 on Amazon.