Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

DIY 30k service comments


Recommended Posts

With my dealer service sticker shock and concerns about their competency (they've left fluid levels low in the past, among other issues), I performed some of the 30k service on my LGT myself in an effort to save a few bucks. Here are a few comments/thoughts:

 

1) You don't need a T70 bit for the rear diff, just the square end of a 1/2" drive rachet in order to remove the drain and fill plugs.

 

2) The oil that came out of the rear diff looked kinda puplish in color, unlike the oil that came out of the tranny. This seemed weird to me, as I thought the factory fill for the diff and tranny was standard Valvoline 75/90.

 

3) You do need the T70 bit for the tranny drain plug (a manual tranny anyway). I used standard Valvoline dino 75/90 for the diff and tranny refill. The oil that I drained out of the tranny looked like it was in good shape. There was a bit of greasy sludgy stuff on the drain plugs of both the tranny and rear diff. There is a reduced amount of gear/tranny noise now with the tranny oil change (though it's not pronounced). I just used a funnel with a flexible tube to add the oil, however I should've got one of those hose thingys that screws directly to the gear oil container such that you could squeeze the oil in. It took a while to refill the tranny, and getting oil into the rear diff was tricky as well, the exhaust pipe and rear sway bar get in the way. The hose thingy would've made filling the rear diff a lot easier.

 

4) Just draining the radiator drains most of the coolant. I estimate I drained 6 - 6.5 qts. of coolant and the Turbo coolant capacity is 7.7 qts (according to my manual). I figure I'll wait till 60k to do a full drain/flush, since the inside of the radiator looked spotless. I used NAPA coolant which is what the dealer uses, except for warranty work in which case they use Subaru coolant, and I used Subaru coolant conditioner and distilled water, 50/50 mix, maybe a bit more than 50% coolant. Something stupid I did: With the radiator cap off, I also opened the aux coolant tank (the one next to the engine cover) and discovered that if you do that with a full radiator, you spill coolant! (yes, dumb thing to do)

 

5) The air filter is pretty easy to replace, easier than my last car.

 

6) According to the maintenance booklet, at 30k we need to change brake fluid, which I will have the dealer do, as well as the inspections mentioned as well. Anyone change their own brake fluid?

 

Hope this helps anyone doing their own service!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd like to know also how to change/flush the brake system out. I know the ABS has specific specifications on how it is done. Plus I want to replace the brake fluid with a better quality one from Pennzoil or Royal Purple Synthetic DOT 3/DOT 4 types.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd like to know also how to change/flush the brake system out. I know the ABS has specific specifications on how it is done. Plus I want to replace the brake fluid with a better quality one from Pennzoil or Royal Purple Synthetic DOT 3/DOT 4 types.

 

I don't think it is different with ABS, it is just straight brake bleeding after you have emptied the master cylinder and replaced with new fluid. Just don't let it run low as you are bleeding.

neil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use