RalliTek Swaybar Trouble

So, does anyone have an answer for me? I put my RalliTek swaybars on my car about a month ago, and ever since I was getting a bit of a light clunk from the right rear when going over an undulating road surface. Today, since it's gotten louder, I finally tracked it down to being where the pin goes through the end of the swaybar. The whole in the swaybar simply leaves play, and so the pin thunks back and forth on the hole and makes a solid thunking noise inside the car. Am I missing something? I would think the hole was simply supposed to be the same size as the pin, but it isn't, it's larger (I used all the hardware and the new endlinks that came with the swaybar.) Should there be some sort of additional sleeve on the pin? Or could it be a manufacturing defect? I'm not sure how it's "supposed" to be set up other than compared with what came off my car. In fact, when I first installed it, I just tightened everything really tight, and only learned after it started squeaking that they are supposed to be a bit more than hand tight - so this is all a learning process for me.

I had this same problem. It took a bit of research to figure it out. I still have the same problem on my front endlinks and swaybar.

When you tightened the swaybar-endlink connection, the bolt was most likely not perfectly aligned within both the swaybar and the endlink. When you tightened the bolt down, what feels like the tightest you can get it...actually is not so.

When your swaybar works, it moves in that little bit of space left over on the bolt.

 

To fix this, get back under the car and make sure that the bolt is aligned completely horizontal so that there is no space when you have the nut tightened completely. With no free space, the swaybar cannot move, and will not "clunk" anymore.

It will also stiffen up your swaying a bit.

Ahh but you are thinking axially along the length of the bolt. That's not the problem I am having. The swaybar is most definitely tight against the endlink. My issue is that the hole in the swaybar, through which the bolt goes, is actually of a larger diameter than the bolt itself, so the swaybar bangs up and down on the bolt, not on the endlink.

Ah.

Should have thoroughly read your problem lulz.

I believe the swaybar bolt hole isn't exactly flush with the bolt on the Whiteline bar neither. But the rear doesn't bang around. Make sure you have your washers and bolt aligned properly. Whiteline's install had the bolt head oriented on the inside of the system, followed by a small washer, the swaybar, endlink, a large washer, and then finally the nut on the outside of system.

I would also double check your mounts and mount bushings.

what endlinks u using?

The endlinks that came with the RalliTek swaybar. They are RalliTek endlinks, bushings, etc... I'm going to run outside now in the 20 degree weather and see if I can prop my phone up and get a quick video of what I am talking about. I just don't know what I could do to remedy it.

I had this problem twice and I've confirmed, through extensive investigation, that the rear sway bar contacts the lower control arm when the suspension is unloaded. look at the part of the bar right above the control arm and I'm sure you'll see contact marks. Solution to this is get longer endlinks, or adjustable ones. I have adjustable avo endlinks and had to extend them quite a bit to stop the contact.

I don't think so. I saw the bolt moving around. Not sure why I'm posting this video, because I couldn't get the phone close enough for you to see, but the upper bolt moves around inside the swaybar. I don't know, bmx045, what car you are referring to, but there is no control arm anywhere near the swaybar on my setup...

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ftu6zcvpY2E]RalliTek Swaybar/Endlink Clunk - YouTube[/ame]

oh, you have a f*cking 98. why am i even in this forum. whoops

That's what I figured, lol. But yeah, not sure what to do at this point.

You should get a washer between that bolt head and the swaybar.

try going to the harware store. go to the piping section and finding a pipe or pipes that will fit around that bolt and if you have to drive the sway out a little tiny to make it snug in there. or get a bolt with a slight tapper

did you solve this. I am thinking about buying the rear rallitek kit curious what happened

Ahh I'm sorry I never answered this thread. I did resolve the issue. I simply spent $2.00 at a hardware store for a new set of carriage bolts, and some additional washers. Also discovered that in my stupidity, I had installed the washers that came with the kit backwards. ALSO for some reason the torque wrench that I had used from AutoZone must have been horribly calibrated, because when I used my friend's torque wrench, they got a lot tighter before it clicked. So it seems more like it was just some stupidity on my part. Everything is fine now other that a bit of squeaking which I mean to fix with some added grease when I get a chance. Couldn't be happier!

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Brown-Line-BLD0212-Digital-Torque/dp/B0032A60W2]Amazon.com: Brown Line Metal Works BLD0212 Digital Torque Wrench: Automotive[/ame]

just tightened mine up, so nice to not hear that clunk anymore haha

So you are satisfied with this product? I am looking at it since it is cheaper than whiteline, but havent heard or seen much on the comparison. If the whiteline is better, ill save for an extra few days and get it.

I am satisfied. I feel as though the issues are all a result of my n00bness at all this stuff. The bars themselves (front and rear) seemed well-made and well-coated. I actually made another idiot mistake when I bought the new bolts, as mentioned in this thread. I did not buy stainless steel bolts. So a few weeks later, I started getting some squeaking, and when I tried to remove the bolts, I realized everything had rusted together. Spent over an hour banging the bolts out and replaced them with stainless steel bolts.

 

I'm not sure why I had the initial problem with the bolts seeming to leave just a bit of play. Even my replacement bolts have a bit of play in them between them and the steel ring that goes through the bushings. Keeping them from knocking seems to be dependent on how hard you tighten them down. I've also had trouble keeping the bar from squeaking with the new rear end-links and bushings that it came with - ended up buying thick, tractor grease and so far it's been quiet.

 

The front sway-bar has given me no trouble since I installed it, other than when going over severely uneven ground (like exiting a steep driveway at an angle) I get some sort of pop from the front. Not sure what causes it - it's clearly related to the sway-bar, but it's also clearly not the sway-bar itself. The rear sway-bar came with new end-links, but the front one did not so it may just be the old end-links binding on something and then popping free under severe twisting.

 

I WOULD recommend getting upgraded sway-bar mounts if you can. I've read that the stock mounts can easily break with upgraded sway-bars, and so every time I drive over severely uneven ground, I always fear one of the mounts is going to snap - especially because I have an Outback, so there is already more articulation to begin with.

Stang, appreciate the answer. It seems like it is something a lot of guys will mess up being you dont wanna break something. I had been looking into a WHITELINE Rear swaybar, and all around links. How ever is it necessary to do the sway bar mounts right away or can i do them later? Have you broken them yet?

I haven't broken mine and I've had them over a year...

...AND I've auto-crossed the car and driven all over the place. So maybe you don't REALLY need to upgrade them... or maybe I'm extremely lucky.

Heres my deal...im getting coilovers, rear links kit (6 pc), and rear sway bar and links (4 pc). I have new ball joints and doing tie rods soon...so really ist a master bushing kit worth it?

 

I am going with really lucky haha. I might do the whiteline mounts with the bar and links at one time. I hope I dont need them but either way you are lucky haha

I beat the piss out of my stock endlinks all the time and have a Whiteline rear sway. Maybe I'll get lucky someday and break one so I can upgrade, lol.

I beat the piss out of my stock endlinks all the time and have a Whiteline rear sway. Maybe I'll get lucky someday and break one so I can upgrade, lol.

 

A sweet trick it to take a sawzall and notch them. They will break in 2 minutes of snow drifting.

It will be a fun two minutes though.