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How to find a tuner? (PA I-476 corridor)


Subadozer

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I just got my BNR 16g turbo and a used STi UP is on the way so I'm planning on doing an upgrade soon that will require a tune. I've tried searching both here and generally online, posting a couple inquiries in my closest regional forum, sending a few PM's, and I'm still not finding a tuner that's closer than a 3-4 hour drive away. Maybe that's not unusual and will turn out to be my best choice. Sorry if this is too specific of a question or should be located elsewhere.

 

I'm planning on doing the actual swap in the Binghamton, NY area. So far I've located 2 tuners in the general southeast PA area that would be relatively convenient to use if I do so around when I work in that area. The 2 are Epic in Allentown and R/T in Lansdale. Akuma would be out of my way but may be my best option if I can't get any additional referrals. I've also corresponded with Infamous but I don't know of a place where I can drive fast enough to do the data logging.

 

Are these pretty much my options or is there a way to find a competent tuner closer to Binghamton? I've gotten 1 or 2 good referrals for R/T but have nothing on Epic other than their web site. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

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i've heard recently that Andy (last name Brahay(sp?) i think) is tuning at R/T. I don't know much about the shop but i KNOW Andy knows his way around a SUBY!! He tuned my stg2 WRX when he was at Verocious Motorports.

If you were willing to travel further south i HIGHLY recommend Agile Automotive in MD.

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  • 1 month later...

There's a really really good tuner in Easton area. Area1320, however they only work with utec and open source but do amazing work. I'm glad I never got an ap, plus the utec can give more of an exact tune.

 

*oh yeah I forgot to add, they solely work with subarus.

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There's a really really good tuner in Easton area. Area1320, however they only work with utec and open source but do amazing work. I'm glad I never got an ap, plus the utec can give more of an exact tune.

*oh yeah I forgot to add, they solely work with subarus.

After my op, I bought an STi UP from a guy in Clarks Summit. He has used Area 1320 and referred me to them as well. If you do a search on these forums you'll find some glowing reviews as well as some strong caveats. Maybe the problems were a while ago and have been worked out. Thanks for mentioning them again.

 

I'm again considering an e-tune because I've gotten an excellent recommendation from somebody on the group who had a tune done similar to what I'll be looking for and he is able to do the data logging with pulls within the speed limit.

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I don't know what your running for tuning and logging but I'm going to recommend a utec for sure. I originally was going to go with AP, however after doing extensive research for higher hp motors and versatility between the two, i ultimately ended up with a utec. Plus, even though new they are roughly $1100~$1200, you can get them used between $100~$200 easily off nasioc. I've seen the work area1320 does and its impressive, plus they're prices arent too bad, Ryan and Drake there are willing to work with you on almost anything. However like I stated before, they only tune with utec and opensource.
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There's highly experienced and recommended by many tuner just one email away. His nickname here is Infamous1.

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I've considered an AP but the budget right now won't allow it. I'm not familiar with utec. Is that like an AP but somehow different? At $200 that might be more doable, especially considering the discount off new.

 

I don't know what your running for tuning and logging but I'm going to recommend a utec for sure. I originally was going to go with AP, however after doing extensive research for higher hp motors and versatility between the two, i ultimately ended up with a utec. Plus, even though new they are roughly $1100~$1200, you can get them used between $100~$200 easily off nasioc. I've seen the work area1320 does and its impressive, plus they're prices arent too bad, Ryan and Drake there are willing to work with you on almost anything. However like I stated before, they only tune with utec and opensource.
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Well the utec is a piggy back EMS that really acts as a stand alone EMS, it basically only lets the car's ecu control idle really. Instead of reflashing your ecu, you just load a map or tune through utec and it controls the car. It installs on stand offs just above the ecu and is plugged into the harness between the ecu and the car. Most of them sell with a selector switch for map switching on the fly as well (holds 10 maps). This means you don't have to plug it into your OBDII connector, but you also don't lose the connector and can still pass inspections (where its required for OBDII). I guess they're both pretty similar, both have valet mode, anti-theft mode, you can load economy map, base map, and which ever other tuned maps you'd like. You just plug your computer up to the serial cable provided with the utec and you can do all of your datalogging and gauge monitoring right there as well. Its really just personal preference, but most people I've seen on nasioc who run more power ditch ap's and go with either utec or serious stand alone EMS like hydra and AEM EMS. For $100-$200, to achieve the same thing, I don't think thats too bad. With an ap or utec, you would still have to pay for a pro-tune regardless. The only downside is making sure you get the right version that works for your car. The utec delta's are easier to distinguish like ap's (04-07 is utec-002), but the older larger versions I'm not entirely sure. I kinda took a shot in the dark with mine, just make sure you have the same amount of connectors for your ecu as the utec if you get the older version. You have an 05 so it should be 4 connectors, I'm pretty sure.

 

Do a search online and on NASIOC for more detailed information on it, but thats the jist of it. Also I forgot to add that TurboXS makes the UTEC, and they're from PA.

 

 

-Rob

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I did some looking at UTEC's at TurboXS as well as over on NASIOC, mostly ones for sale. I do like the idea of the remote switches to change the map. I also wrote to my potential E-tuner. He feels that UTEC is an older pre-open source technology and that open source will be much better.
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I did some looking at UTEC's at TurboXS as well as over on NASIOC, mostly ones for sale. I do like the idea of the remote switches to change the map. I also wrote to my potential E-tuner. He feels that UTEC is an older pre-open source technology and that open source will be much better.

 

Yeah you can definitely do A LOT with open source, however keep in mind that you can run open source with utec as well. Just remember, just like the AP, open sources reflashes your ECU. If your ECU gets fried or something, thats a pretty penny your going to spend on replacing it. Thats what's good about a piggy back system. If it dies, then you just replace it and your stock ecu is intact and fine.

 

Either way its all personal preference like I said. open source is free, utec can be very cheap relatively, and the AP is the same price as a pro-tune. Thats another thing that made me not want to get an AP. You pay at least 525-565 for an AP and then spend another 450+ for a pro-tune. Where as the utec or open source, its either free or around 100-200 and then you get a pro-tune and its much cheaper and you get the same, if not better.

 

 

-Rob

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Yeah you can definitely do A LOT with open source, however keep in mind that you can run open source with utec as well. Just remember, just like the AP, open sources reflashes your ECU. If your ECU gets fried or something, thats a pretty penny your going to spend on replacing it. Thats what's good about a piggy back system. If it dies, then you just replace it and your stock ecu is intact and fine.

OK, so I could pick up a used utec for about $200 and install one of the remote cables that are in the ballpark of $60 off eBay. Then with an open source tune I could have the option of changing my map from the driver's seat for under $300 as well as have the advantages of the open source tune. If this is correct at what point in the turbo upgrade and retune process should I install the utec?

 

Though I understand bricking the ECU is a relatively rare occurrence, the utec feature of not reflashing is an attractive attribute. It would help me if I understood better how all these things fit in to control of the car's systems and workings rather than just knowing the terms and mostly guessing at what they do or mean, or knowing only the basic end result.

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