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Filtered Turbo Oil Supply Line Kit (w/ Instructions)


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Combustion chamber changed in size too between the "B" and "D". Slight change in efficiency, hence the change from a VF40 to a VF46. If you are not careful and do not "know" what you have you can end up with a higher compression than expected. I know of at least 1 member who had nightmares with this when his builder was unaware.
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Combustion chamber changed in size too between the "B" and "D". Slight change in efficiency, hence the change from a VF40 to a VF46. If you are not careful and do not "know" what you have you can end up with a higher compression than expected. I know of at least 1 member who had nightmares with this when his builder was unaware.

 

I intentionally did the swap for the compression bump. 8.2 with B heads, to 8.7 with D heads.

High compression and "low" boost should get along alright.

 

We shall see when I take it to you for the flex fuel tune/kit and dyno.

 

 

/threadjack

"Build" Thread <--Link

(OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW)

Forever Slow

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8.7 is nothing. Its when you are shooting for 10.0:1 and end up with 10.5:1. Then you cant run pump gas past 16psi.

 

Oddly enough a VERY respected local engine builder did not know this until blowing a few up. Funny, that shop is no longer in business.

 

Flex Fuel for all now that we have it working on Cobb too!

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Yeah, I wanted at least 9:1, but 10:1 would be more fun.

 

8.7:1 was the cheapest and easiest for me to do though.

 

Yeah, heard about that shop, surprised me quite a bit, feel bad for the local guys that had the bad fortune of losing their new engine from that mistake.

 

What does that flex fuel run, price wise?

"Build" Thread <--Link

(OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW)

Forever Slow

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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That's the kit(sensor) and tune?

 

For the Cobb OTS maps, yes. If you need a custom map that is more.

 

 

So I still need to install the ACVS line on my kit for my 08 OBXT, is the below still an accurate representation Mike?

 

Almost. Your factory filtered banjo bolt is not on the back of the head, it is under the turbo inlet tube. A shorter run with less turns. Same route for the line (as your originating point will be mid-line in the referenced pix).

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Back from the shop who took off my exhaust and replaced my turbo. Got the infamous line installed and it looks great, a little bit pf difficulty getting the dual banjo bolt in with the lines attached. It was just being difficult. I also just routed the ACVS line along the passenger side instead of feeding it under the intake manifold.
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  • 2 weeks later...
To remove the stock oil hard line, is intake plenum removal necessary? I am installing a bnr turbo soon and got a complete oil line kit.

 

Sent from my SGP311 using Tapatalk

 

It is not, but it certainly makes it easier. It is possible to cut,unscrew everything needed as long as you are patient. From my experience if you can do it I would. Overall it just makes it cleaner and it's worth the extra effort to remove the plenum instead of the line with the plenum in the way.

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  • 1 month later...

Did the bnr16g install a few weeks ago and everything went well with the oil line kit, but one thing that was weird is the double banjo bolt threads were tight into the avcs oil hole. Is this normal with this bolt?

 

Sent from my SGP311 using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...
I finally got around to installing my 16g and oil line kit and found that the double banjo bolt was quite a bit larger than it should have been. I couldn't even get the bolt to start in the AVCS. Put it through a 12 x 1.25 die and it shaved some metal off, after a few more passes I was able to get the banjo bolt to thread into the AVCS ok.
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  • 2 months later...
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Hey Mike, I noticed that my setup developed a minor leak recently. At first glance it looked like the leak might have been from the connection on the front of the filter, but that nut is sufficiently tight. I loosened the bracket that holds the filter and when I slid it forward I found oil around the entire circumference of the filter. Looks like the leak might actually be from the seam that is there?

 

I have not serviced the filter yet, maybe I'm due. I just tried to tighten the filter housing to hopefully solve the leak for now and it actually seemed to loosen / "jump" when turning righty-tighty--might not be designed to come apart really? Figured I'd quit and come ask here to be sure I don't damage the filter itself.

 

Upon starting the car just now it does appear that the leak is worse--immediately a drop of oil found when touching the ground side of the filter after just a few seconds of running the car.

Edited by BarManBean

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Hey Mike, I finally got around to installing the ACVS line on my '08 OBXT and before I finish up I wanted to make sure the install was acceptable as I did not route it where the original line was. Thanks.

 

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20151110_234112_zpsussacg2a.jpg

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t503/childreth13/20151111_175138_zpsiukenbmz.jpg

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Bump, I know there is more than one way to skin a cat, but I just want to know if there would be any potential turbo heat implications on the line as I don't know what the insulation is rated for as far as heat is concerned. Please let me know if you want better pics, but in the 2nd pic you can see the ACVS line routed under the wastegate.
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  • 4 months later...
Are the filters from V1 to V2 the same? I have a set of V1 lines that I never put on (no excuses really other than keeping forgetting about it...) but I'm finally about to do a turbo swap and the lines along with it. After talking with BNR last night during ordering the turbo, they mentioned replacing the 10 micron filter with a 40 micron filter. What do you suggest?
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