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Low Oil Pressure Light and "Ticking"


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Hey guys,

 

I was driving home from work yesterday and my low oil pressure light came on. I babied it home (no more than a 5 minute drive). Checked the oil as soon as I got home, and it was fine. I drove it down the block for another minute and it started ticking/"knocking" so I shut it off immediatly. The car has 111,000 miles, I've had it for about 15,000 and have changed the oil every 3500 or so (changed it recently).

 

I'm trying to figure out what route to go here. I've found a bunch of oil pick up tube failures...I was going to drain/filter the oil and see if there are any metal shavings. Think I should pull the pan and see what I find? I'm praying that I can find a semi easy fix and have the motor not be toast already. I can't afford to take it to a dealer and get charged a rediculous amount. I'm in a tough spot here as this is my main DD, any suggestions?

 

Thanks!

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The motor is toast. A new shortblock is required. Best bet is to get a ej257 sb for $1900, along with new oil cooler, gasket kit, at the very least and do it yourself with help from the forum to save the most $$. if you feel up to it. When the oil light comes on its already too late, and the fact that your drove it after the light came on seals the deal. The auditory confirmation is just the icing on the cake.
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Sorry about you luck, or lack thereof. The oil pressure light doesn't come on until just 2psi, so in actuality it's pretty much a replace engine light.

 

Check the engine oil level first and then pull the pan and see what you find. If its knocking its probably not good.

 

New EJ257 shortblocks can be had for around $1,700 - $1,900 depending on if they're on sale. But you'll have to pay to have it installed. If you haven't done your 100k service you'll need a new timing belt as well. Good luck.

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Sounds like another cracked oil pick up tube ?

 

Sorry to hear that.

 

Alos don't take it to the stearlership find a local subaru garage to do the work. It will be less cost to you.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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This is all great news haha. Does anyone have any guides on how to pull the pan? Can't seem to find any...

 

I'm hoping somehow I get lucky and find that the oil tube is cracked.. Hopefully the motor stayed together with 2 psi

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I don't necessarily disagree, but its worth a shot IMO, i'm desperate. I work as a test engineer at volvo so its not my first time around engine failures. I've seen/read about people somehow being okay after they got the light and they fixed the problem. I'm not going to lose much by pulling the pan other than some time. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I guess the next step would be the pump itself..

 

Anybody have any good oil pan removal write ups?

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You're an engineer for volvo and you're completely missing the fundamentals of bearings and the need for oil- and drove 5 miles without any oil in the engine. These aren't old school engines, they do not last xx miles and "be okay"
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The problem isn't the <2psi operating pressure. The problem is that you drove it instead of shutting off the engine immediately upon seeing that light. By continuing to drive it... metal on metal = bearings are toast, minimum.

 

You can pull the pan and replace the pickup tube and put in new oil, etc. But the odds are HEAVILY stacked against the engine continuing to run alright.

 

Good luck.

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Yeah, I completely understand the bearings are most likely toast, but like I said, I think its worth a shot.

 

Max capacity, thank you very much for that link, that will really help me.

 

BMX, i'm not missing the fundamentals of anything. I completely understand what everyone is saying, I deal with bearings daily. I just dont have the money to put a shortblock in the car right now so I have to atleast give it a chance.

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My girlfriend had a Loyale with a terrible wrapping and flickering oil light.

 

Checked oil fine. We drove it 3 miles to garage with all the racket and they changed oil pump (failed). She dumped the car and me at the same time(~100k miles latter).

 

I concur odds are stacked against you but get it diagnosed.

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-if there's metallic shavings in the oil, and you decided to drain/refill oil and replace pickup, driving the car will cause the shavings that are collected in the heads and oil cooler to continue circulating through your system eventually taking out the cam journals to unusable status but also your turbo bearings and you'll be in for a long block + turbo if you aren't already.

 

-if no metallic "dust" or flakes in oil, i'd say go ahead and take the chance with a drain/refill and pickup replacement

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This isn't a question of "hope." He needs to fix things before more stuff breaks. Put it on a credit card if you need to -- you'll save money if you spend $2000 plus interest, vs. waiting and spending $4000 later (heads and turbo in addition to a shortblock).
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