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Prosport gauge install question


zx6rexx

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I bought a pair of Prosport gauges (mechanical boost and electrical oil press.)

Was searching for guides for installation and found a couple good ones but just wanted to clarify a couple things from anyone who has installed both these gauges.

 

I want to install them into the cubby and my question is when I go to wire them for illumination from the 12v acc power can I use the same fuse for both gauges? so in other words one fuse will be tapped into and have 2 wires running out to each gauge

 

My second question is for people that have installed the electrical OP gauge did you need to buy the relocation kit for the sender? I went ahead and ordered the oil galley plug from prosport when I bought the gauge but ran into a couple of posts mentioning that the sender maybe too big for the spot where the galley plug is. Can anyone confirm this?

 

I believe I have the installation process down aside from the wiring but if anyone has any more installation tips that would appreciated

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My Prosport Halos came with a pigtail that ran power from one gauge to the one right next to it. If yours are built the same then yes, you will only need to run power off of one fuse for each function. I dont remember what fuses i took them to. I can look tomorrow.
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Tried to install the gauges today and I want to confirm that for the Prosport oil pressure gauge you definitely need the relocation kit. There is not enough space at the oil galley towards the back of the block for the sender to fit.

Are there any other oil galley plugs located on the block? If not I will most likely be ordering that kit.

 

I was able to remove the center clock panel (it was a PITA) but I am a little confused as to how I will get the boost line through the firewall.

Which grommet would be the easiest to use so I can get the wires directly in the center and whats the best was to route the wires?

 

I will most likely splice the wires into the clock wiring since everything I need is there.

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Tap the drivers side grommet next to the pitch mount. You've got to peel the heat shielding fabric back to expose the grommet. If you have a tmic on you'll probably have to get that out of the way first. I used a magnet pickup with fingers on the end to run the wires thought that hole. You'll be best off going from the engine compartment to the drivers footwell. Its easiest to

Do with two people so one can push through while the other is in the drivers footwell reaching behind the center stack to grab the sender. Route the wire just aside the center stack on the drivers side. With the center vent out and the lower access panels beneath the steering wheel removed you'll see the best route. It's a suck job but it is what you have to do. Hope you only have to do it

Once.

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Thanks

I removed my TMIC and pulled a small grommet I cant remember what side it was on but it was a small rubber cap once I removed that there was some of that heat shield material I poked a screwdriver through but could not see where the boost line was feeding out of.

 

Next week I will try removing the kick panel under the steering wheel I did this before when I did my independent fog mod and zip tied everything so I hope it doesnt mess that up..that was a pain in @ss too.

 

Im trying to see if prosport will give me a discount on the reloc kit since I already purchased their galley plug..most likely I will route both the boost line and oil press. wiring through the same path to center cubby...cant wait to be done with this mess of a job

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That's weird, I bought the same gauges as you, but I didn't need to tap it into the engine, it came with a screw on adapter that goes between the oil filter and the block, and that adapter has two holes (comes with 1 screw to plug it) one for oil pressure, and another for oil temp.

 

All of my wires go through the main harness grommet, which was a pain in the ass, but well worth it IMHO. As far as the power issues, mine is all connected through the cig lighter, but I noticed one problem with it.. the cig lighter only has power in ACC and ON mode. With the Prosports, you can silence the start up beeping, but in order for it to remember that setting, the gauge needs constant 12v power, so later on this year, I'm going to rewire it and power it directly from the fuse board.

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Yea I saw that sandwich adapter but decided not to get it..I am considering it now since both that adapter and the relocation kit are around $30...

 

I will use the clock for my wiring.

Also how did you feed the wires through the grommet? Did you remove the kick plate on the drivers side as firepuma suggested? I was thinking about doing it that way.

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find out where the grommet hole is from the inside so you can feel or see it.....use a metal coat hanger and tape the wire to the end and push it on through. dont just push it in cause u will ripe the wire off the hanger and have to start again.
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i have the Oil Pressure and Oil temp in the center bin, and i ran the wires through the grommet on the drivers side and into the engine bay. Also got the sandwich filter with the temp and pressure sender with no clearance issues. Im ordering the Defrost Vent gauge on here and putting my boost gauge in that. I t-tapped off the wires that feed the clock and the radio for the gauges.
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Yea I saw that sandwich adapter but decided not to get it..I am considering it now since both that adapter and the relocation kit are around $30...

 

I will use the clock for my wiring.

Also how did you feed the wires through the grommet? Did you remove the kick plate on the drivers side as firepuma suggested? I was thinking about doing it that way.

 

I poked a hole in the grommet large enough for the wires for both gauges on the passenger side, it's right behind the turbo. I have an aftermarket up and down pipe and no turbo shield, so it was pretty easy for me to get to. I didn't use the coat hanger method, but probably should have.. finding the wires from inside the car was a PITA. I pulled the glove box off and the center console, pulled the radio out, all to get access to those wires. When I got the wires fed through and put the grommet back on, I put a bit of silicone on the grommet where I had made the hole to seal it up

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i have the Oil Pressure and Oil temp in the center bin, and i ran the wires through the grommet on the drivers side and into the engine bay. Also got the sandwich filter with the temp and pressure sender with no clearance issues. Im ordering the Defrost Vent gauge on here and putting my boost gauge in that. I t-tapped off the wires that feed the clock and the radio for the gauges.

 

If I don't end up getting the vent boost gauge, I'll end up getting the defrost gauge holder too, for an AFR gauge.

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Looks like I will be getting that relocation kit.. Anyone know if any generic kit that is similar will work and where to find it? I read something on NASIOC someone there bought one from Autozone for $10 but I could not find any listed on there website...

Prosport is being cool about it and offered to get me the kit for $27+shipping which is ok..will get that if I dont find the cheap kit.

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just get the prosport one because you may have to source metric to standard adapters and other stupid crap. The sandwich plate is a tight leak free fit and everything goes together no problem. The $10 more you end up spending you'll save in aggravation.
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Hey, just found this thread and hope to help out. I suggest going direct to a fuse as the clock pod and cig lighter are both tied into the lights (dimmable circuit) and thus if you run the dimmer too ow then the gauge is not getting 12v and thus may not light up all the way or work properly. You can wire up to 5 gauges to one fuse with no problem.

As far as the sender fitment, I think the reason you see multiple answers weather it fits or not is because Premium and Halo gauges uses different (much smaller) senders.

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Thanks for your input. I have been in contact with sales and they will be getting me the relocation kit at a discounted price since I already bought the galley plug.

 

Do you have any suggestions for wiring to the inside fuses? Maybe splicing longer wires? I was hoping to use the clock wiring since it is more convenient and I usually dont change the dimness level of the gauges...

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Here is an install video we made years ago. It is the top right video, I can't figure out how to post just the video so if anyone could help out and do that. This is an install on an STI with Premium series gauges and they wire up different than performance or digitals but at least you can get the idea.

http://prosportgauges.com/premium_series_peak_warning_gauges.aspx

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  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE:

I finally got around to installing the gauges this weekend after i received the remote mount kit from import image racing.

The install definitely sucked and pretty much took up my whole weekend. The worst of it was getting past the firewall to the inside and definetly wiring it up.

I end up wiring the gauges to the clock harness inside the cubby and spliced the wires onto the oil pressure gauge, then daisy chained the boost gauge off the OP gauge so in other words I spliced the op gauge wiring to the boost gauge.

 

for the wiring I followed this post exactly:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ignition-switch-wire-59748.html?t=59748&highlight=prosport+wiring

 

Couple things I noticed are that the gauge is quite brighter than the cluster, and that the gauge do not dim when I turn the headlight on. Also, the gauges turn on when I have my key in the first position but the main cluster turns on in the second key position before ignition.

Another thing is that my boost gauge does not sweep when turned on, it just lights up immiediately. The OP gauge does sweep and comes on after a few seconds. Could this be because the boost gauge is mechanical and the op gauge is electric?

 

I went for a test run after and nothing is leaking from the pressure sender or galley plug. The boost gauge however does not seem as responsive so I will check the T and the hoses. The car is stock and I seemed to max out around 11-13 psi..I didnt floor it though.

 

I am ok with it for now but most likely will revisit this in a couple months and redo the wiring so that It can be dimmed like the other accessory lights and engage in the second key position instead of the first..I may have to rewire to the fuse box instead of the clock harness

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I have the same issue, except i noticed the Oil pressure gauge does the sweep while my boost gauge just sits at zero till the car is turned on. i ran a ware down to the fuse box with a fuse add piece from the auto parts store. My gauges are just about as bright at the radio and everything else in the waterfall.

 

I have an aftermarket BOV so my turbo is pretty responsive when i hit the gas. Make sure the line is not pinched where u went through the firewall as that will not make it work properly.

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When I was sending the boost line through the firewall I was worried about it snagging on something or being pinched along the way inside because I cant really check behind the radio..

I think that only the electrical gauges do the sweep..can anyone confirm this?

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