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I have a few questions I need some advise on. I got new plugs installed in my car today and I was talking to the mechanic about getting more boost out of my car. They told me should be able to get around 18 lbs boost max out of my stock turbo. I'm planning on upgrading the turbo eventually but not right this second. They told me if I got a good blow off valve and a boost regulator I could do this. Is this true? If so what name brand do u recommend? is be happy with getting 15 lbs boost since stock is more like 8.
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Stock PSI is around 13. in order to properly handle that sort of power you will need a turboback exhaust and a proper tune or you will end up needed a new turbo and shortblock soon. just using a cobb accessport stage one off the shelf tune you will get ~15PSI
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Stock boost is actually about 15psi. If you're only getting 8, you're either in limp/safe mode, or, you have a pretty significant boost leak.

 

A BOV has nothing to do with raising your boost level. Your OEM one is just fine and perfectly suited for the task, except that it doesn't advertise to everyone, at every shift, that you have a turbo. If this is really what you want, please make a fist, and sit on it. With force.

 

18 is about the tops for the stock turbo. But first, you've got some other things to do, to prep for that.

 

Have you replaced your OEM UP with a catless one? Have you removed the banjo bolt filters? Are you off the stock tune?

 

More than raising the boost, those are pretty important things to take care of, which will allow you to begin to start down the path of seeking that next level of performance.

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I can't imagine its that simple to get that much more boost. You'd need more fuel, and a better way for air to enter/exit the premises. So wastegate would be my question, does stock handle/allow that?

 

BUMP for a good question.

 

The wastegate on the vf40 is actually more than adequate for the amount of boost it produces. It's not the issue here.

 

You're technically correct about more fueling, but, in terms of stock power, the pump will max out before the injectors do.

 

Still, stock fueling can handle nearly 20psi from some turbos, like the 68HTA.

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Edit: Just read your other posts. I see you have an AP.

 

Hop into the regional forums for your area and take a look at some of the tuners in your area. If you're not near any, there's always an etune option from any of our fine vendors in the Vendors tab up top. If it's more boost and more power you seek, really, you just need a custom tune.

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I'm not too familiar with the turbo setup on LGT's, so I didn't want to comment before these guys.

 

Based off what Tris said, it sounds like the stock LGT bov (or technically bpv) can handle high levels of boost. I know when I had an older eclipse gsx, a better blow off valve or bypass valve was needed with higher boost levels, because the stock bypass valve would leak if you increased the boost. So I understand what the mechanic was thinking, but it sounds like it doesn't necessarily apply to LGT's.

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You traveling a slippery slope. More = more all the way around.

To have a car tuned for 18lb or more you need the supporting mods to do it.

Not much but just enough to help.

But...

Your turbo is not going to last long or may be on it's last leg already.

How deep is your wallet? Really?

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im not saying im only getting 8 the mechanic said he thinks a stock puts out about 8-10 he wasn't 100% sure. im just looking to get more boost out of my car without hurting the turbo. right now I know it has a cobb down pipe and a factory upgraded spt air intake system with factory upgraded spt exaust. I bought the car used and this was already on it.
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Im just looking to fine tune it without having to spend $1000's on the car. my pockets are deep but I have kids so obviously they come first before my car. Im just looking to maybe grab a part once a month so by summer I have a nicely tuned subaru. I want to work on the performance before I get wheels. it runs good now but I know there are things I can do to make it better. eventually ill get an upgraded turbo Im going to look into the up pipe. Im not a mechanic im a person that likes fast cars and have a little bit of extra money each month to play with.
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Only reason to change the up pipe is to get rid of the catted versions if you have an 05/06 MY.

 

You have a DP and your ahead of the game. Using OTS maps is one way to go but until it's tuned for your car dangerous for part life.

 

Spend your money on a custom tune and stay happy.

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Only reason to change the up pipe is to get rid of the catted versions if you have an 05/06 MY.

 

You have a DP, you're ahead of the game. Using OTS maps is one way to go but until it's tuned for your car its dangerous for part life.

 

Spend your money on a custom tune and stay happy.

 

This.

 

Seriously, make sure you don't have the OEM Uppipe. You think your pockets are sufficient until your turbo eats a cat, seizes, snaps the shaft, and takes your motor out with it. That's 5k, minimum to get back on the road.

 

Go find a tuner.

 

Further, see my post in the What Did You Do. . .Today? thread. These cars are plenty fast in stock form, even by today's standards. Look into a Driver's Skills Day or similar program in your area (Usually sponsored by a regional Porsche club) and get out and really learn what your car is capable of.

 

You (and maybe your pockets) will be better for it.

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I have a perrin down and up pipe, no cats, and Cobb sft intake. I'm running 91 stage 2 sft on my AP. I have been having problems with cylinder 3 injector and coil pack. So I am wrapping the pipes and getting an upgraded turbo heat shield. I suggest the same for you man. That turbo and plumbing sees a lot of heat, and it's right next to cylinder 3. If your upgrading, I suggest taking proper precautions as well.
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I have a perrin down and up pipe, no cats, and Cobb sft intake. I'm running 91 stage 2 sft on my AP. I have been having problems with cylinder 3 injector and coil pack. So I am wrapping the pipes and getting an upgraded turbo heat shield. I suggest the same for you man. That turbo and plumbing sees a lot of heat, and it's right next to cylinder 3. If your upgrading, I suggest taking proper precautions as well.

 

The wrapping can't hurt, but it might not be the solution to your problem.

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I've done a leak down and compression test, so my only assumption left is heat affecting the electronics.

 

and I had another question I have the stage 2 tune on my access port on my car at this moment and in the log for boost target it only goes up to 11 what would I use to hook into the car to actually see the real-time boost? do I need a cobb boost controller?

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I have a tune on my 05 Wagon from Cryo one of the vendors on here and absolutely love it. I also have a catless UP and DP and removed the banjo bolt filters on the oil feed line. My tune has max boost set at 17.5 which is plenty. My Downpipe is ceramic coated and I also have a turbo blanket to keep underhood temps down and I am also being lazy about cutting my stock heatshield to fit over my large downpipe. I would suggest finding out what tune you are running currently if you already have a downpipe and an accessport. For my tuning I used the VAG-COM cable off ebay and my laptop which was quite simple and saved quite a bit of money over purchasing an accesport.

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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