1997 LGT M4 Rallycross Build

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Quick Index to pages that contain pics and updates

1,2,3,4

 

 

Bought the car for 300 with wrecked front suspension.

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sat for a few months... then I blew up my sti so i quickly fixed the lgt to daily drive by replacing parts and putting it on outback struts

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then got it dirty (less than 50 miles later lol)

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gutted the rear interior

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then my power steering started leaking everywhere and soon took a total dump. while the car was down i decided to do my timing belt and water pump seeing as she was at 240k and i didnt know if it had been done at 200. at that point catastrophe struck. Something weird happened and the engine would lock up after about 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. I tried a bunch of different fixes and nothing helped. couldnt find bent valves, the timing was set up properly, no signs of spun bearings...

 

meanwhile i was driving my dodge

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while the car was on jackstands i painted the wheels. then my dad informed me that he sold his house and i had to get it out of his garage so here she is about to be loaded onto a trailer and brought to my newly acquired storage unit/work place

 

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a few days after arriving, this happened...

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came up on some parts donated by friends or bought for next to nothing

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then i went back to school and she sat for 9 more months. at the beginning of september this year, my friends and i began renting a shop, so the legacy migrated over there and work began again. doors were removed and interior was stripped

 

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the next rally x was coming up end of september, so we bought this and put it together in 2 weeks

the one on the left... jk

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we were hooked and i knew I had to get it finished before the 2013 season started.

 

fantasizing

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started working on the wiring

 

full diagram

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junk

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then they added a rally x at the end of december so now im really busting my ass.

 

working late. pic taken aprx 4 am

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spaghetti

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nice and clean

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polished old yellow headlights... before and after

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sneak preview

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paint

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dash harness complete

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much better

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made custom switch plate and wired for push button start

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and thats where i'm at today. a more detailed journal can be found on socalsubies. next project is swapping the outback struts for wrx struts because they are seriously screwing my geometry. also need to wire the radiator fans. then the fenders can go back on. interior should be complete by the end of the weekend.

This is a fantastic build thread! WOW! You're doing really awesome work. Finally something on here that's not hellaflush and craptastic, you're putting the work in to make it awesome

Awesome thread

Awesome work there I'm in for more pics

thanks guys they shall be coming. should be done pretty soon. fear not though there are still many future plans including eg33 once i blow up the 25d

hey dude i like the forward progress of your project; i have 1 question. what model year did you find that front bumper? i've searched high and low and i've come up empty every time

its an outback bumper. i believe 95-99. this was a 97 though.

You're talking about the one in the pics with the hellas right?

Excellent work.

 

Nice change from all the rice on here

That's the one(with the hella's)

I'm not trying to steal ideas here I've been hunting for that bumper whenever I've had spare time; thanks for the tip

Haha. Feel free to use any idea you find in this thread.

Impressive!!

next project is swapping the outback struts for wrx struts because they are seriously screwing my geometry. also need to wire the radiator fans. then the fenders can go back on. interior should be complete by the end of the weekend.

 

If you want the option, dirtyimpreza has information on swapping the appropriate subframe spacers/etc to fix the geometry issues from using the Outback suspension on a non-outback.

 

You can also swap to Forester struts, which have longer strut bodies and can allow for the height without the subframe spacers, but you'll want to use adjustable trailing arms/laterals/camber bolts to be able to dial things in right.

 

Really jealous of you Californians and your non-rusted Subaru chassis

If you want the option, dirtyimpreza has information on swapping the appropriate subframe spacers/etc to fix the geometry issues from using the Outback suspension on a non-outback.

 

You can also swap to Forester struts, which have longer strut bodies and can allow for the height without the subframe spacers, but you'll want to use adjustable trailing arms/laterals/camber bolts to be able to dial things in right.

 

Really jealous of you Californians and your non-rusted Subaru chassis

 

Thanks for the info. I already swapped the wrx struts in w/sti springs. I have all of the parts I'd need for the lift except the steering shaft extension, rear mounts for front control arms, and I'd have to fab 4 spacers for the trans mount. My ideal set up that I'd like to run is revalved 04 sti struts with king springs so I didn't see it being worth the trouble to lift it only do have to undo it later. Plus I already had a set of struts and springs. Why is it that foz struts work with no spacers where on struts don't? Also if you look in the last posts of the BD suspension FAQ thread I did a mini write up detailing the parts needed for ob struts since it wasn't listed in the thread.

 

As for today's progress:

Finished wiring all of my circuits today with exception of aux lights and connected the battery for testing. So far, everything works except headlights, guage cluster illumination and fuel pump. I think I found the cause of the guage cluster. Fuel pump I'm not gonna worry about until I have the engine in. I have a feeling the pcm may not be sending power to the pump because its lacking a required signal. I tested the pump separately yesterday and it was fine. My starter works but sounds terrible. Headlights I'm a bit stumped on but I just need to study the diagram some more.

Oh and while the Leggy is rust free, you should see the green impreza. Its from Minnesota and it is rusted to all hell.

I didn't see you mention it, but the other thing you need to do when you install all the lift blocks is drop the driveshaft carrier bearing. Or just get one from an outback. But not doing that will destroy the u-joints pretty quickly.

whoops yea i have spacers for that too but like you said i forgot to mention it.

I have headlights!

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/therectifier1616/IMG_20121204_004504.jpg

...but it seems for some reason with the low beams on the left one is a high beam and the right one is a low beam and if you turn the high beams on it switches. I might be fine, its hard to tell with it in the shop and not pointing it at a wall or open ground.

 

dash is in, I just need to install and connect my switches. wiring is done with the exception of connecting power to the fans, hellas, and battery relocation. I will probably leave the relocation until after the christmas race.

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wiring fans and insulating front harness

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current tasks:

repaint and install harness bar

repair seat threads and install seat

install sunroof cover

fab light bar and install/wire lights

new tires/align

install trans

get head, intake, exhaust, oil pan to block, and valve cover gaskets, crank and cam seals.

assemble engine and install

GO TIME!... i think

Bought 400 dollars in engine gaskets today. Came in a box big enough for a short block lol

its getting there keep the good work coming

Yes sir, thank you sir.

 

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New ride height

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Ej257 valve springs

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Valve spring tool

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Awesome photos showing the labor of love!!