Official 3.6R Mod List

All I know is I used to run at 2800rpms cruising at 80 now I'm at 2600rpms.

 

Actually, I take back my comment. At cruising, the automatic transmission is not fully engaged/locked with the gears. Once you press the pedal a bit, the RPMs rise by about 1000 while in the same gear.

Steven/Fredrik - are you guys talking about actual knock (events) or timing advance being pulled AS A RESULT of knock?

 

Steven - when you mention something like '-7' that sounds like timing advance being pulled into the negative (timing retardation (lol) of 7 degrees).

 

This can be a result of bad tank of fuel, or an aggressive tune vs operating conditions (combo of: temps/air flow/fuel quality, target AFRs, fuel trims).

For example, our cars will default to pull about 1-2 degrees of timing for every 5-10F above 100F IAT.

They will also pull timing much more with a tune targeting 93 octane fuel, and a tank of 87.

+

Usually not an issue, especially if timing advance stays 'in the positive'. Ideally while cruising on the highway it should be +30 to +40.

At idle or low RPM, somewhere between +10 and +15.

 

It was -7 knock correction but I think it was because of dirty oil and it only happened at 80mph the rest of my knock was only -3 and less. Now I see no knock more power and iam is at 1, I'm even getting 257 consistently air flow where I was only seeing about 240 before.

Intake wrapped with thermo tec and AEM bypass valve added.

 

You can see the holes I drilled to get air to my filter.

 

I also removed the second OEM horn while I was at it.

Edited September 14, 2014 by fredrik94087

Intake wrapped with thermo tec and HKS bypass valve added.

 

You can see the holes I drilled to get air to my filter.

 

I also removed the second OEM horn while I was at it.

Should drill the rest out of the area and make it more like mesh

Are you suggesting a third hole per honeycomb or to remove all backing material?

 

I contemplated a third hole, but the piece is pretty weak. I may still do it...dunno.

HKS bypass valve added.

 

?

Are you suggesting a third hole per honeycomb or to remove all backing material?

 

I contemplated a third hole, but the piece is pretty weak. I may still do it...dunno.

A third hole or leave just the raised section to look like mesh. Course, like you said, it is probably weak

?

 

Oops...maybe it is AEM...

 

http://www.aemintakes.com/air_bypass_valve.aspx?pkid=1671762&rw=1

Edited September 14, 2014 by fredrik94087

Yeah, a third hole,.... just behind the knee. Really since you've gone that far mind as well cut out all that fake plastic mesh and replace it with the real stuff.

 

 

Are you suggesting a third hole per honeycomb or to remove all backing material?

 

I contemplated a third hole, but the piece is pretty weak. I may still do it...dunno.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/14/76f8a54b45506043da0d61b38c84d514.jpgyour mesh looks different the mine, I have plenty of air flow and it still looks stock. I wouldn't replace the mesh unless you do it on both sides.

Buy one piece of gutter guard, spray paint it black, and cut to fit. It's an identical pattern.

 

 

your mesh looks different the mine, I have plenty of air flow and it still looks stock. I wouldn't replace the mesh unless you do it on both sides.

I ordered a cusco catch can and I'm gonna mount it in between the pcv and intake manifold. Here is a link to the one I ordered. http://www.emnotek.com/p-4196-cusco-oil-catch-can-universal.aspx

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/5c42384185d1d8286e418c3377c14c04.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/b8ae1161e80ce9a8e11644c0c2cf86c5.jpg

 

Was everyone else's crank case hose hole this small on their Takeda intake?? The stock one is much bigger.

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/6cf8033129deb3e4a4d31e65d79370c1.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/c2a6a0052df48e987d86d5b5407c178d.jpg

Yes mine is, I called takada about it and they said that they found better power this way so this is intentional.

Ok cool. Just checking. Thank you Steven!!!

Just installed intake. Check engine flashing, brake flashing, and traction control lights is on.

 

Edit. Reset ecu. Turned off.

Edited September 16, 2014 by ncfree

Just installed intake. Check engine flashing, brake flashing, and traction control lights is on.

 

Edit. Reset ecu. Turned off.

Mine didn't do that and I didn't reset the ecu even though I should have. Make sure your maf sensor is plugged in tight and make sure your breather line is connected, other than that you should be fine.

Yeah. I think it's because I cleaned the throttle body and it didn't know what to do for a sec even though I let it dry, there must have been something left over combined with all the extra air flow it just went nuts for a bit. Reset. We're good.

Thanks.

I can hear the AEM bypass valve opening up during WOT. I am going to get rid of it, but add a "safety" by way of a second filter.

 

I don't know if this will work or if it will even fit.

Installedhttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/18/c74008ed9280112ffaacaaf06476d661.jpg

Installed

 

I installed a Fumoto valve in mine to make draining it easier. In fact, I just checked mine this morning after emptying it 5K miles ago, and there wasn't even a drop in the can, so either it's not catching anything or there's nothing to catch. Last time I checked it, I had a few mL in there, though. It could be because of the NanoTech Lubricant I put in that is keeping the engine oil temps down. I'm also only down maybe 1/3L in those 5K miles where I'm usually adding a 1L every 3-4K miles. I guess that stuff really works.

 

 

I've decided to add a second catch can to the breather line to keep gunk out out the throttle body. This time, it's a DIY setup using a Husky air compressor filter. I'm having a hard time finding 1/2" ID hose though, so I'm planning on using 3/8" hose with step down adapters.

 

My new intake setup. I was not happy with the AEM bypass opening up at full throttle.

 

This should work fine and the smaller filter is near the well.

Guys any updates to the 3.6R-SC?

Guys any updates to the 3.6R-SC?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/25/f704c3bc58ba22a0a72489aa8a11cc50.jpg

Pic

 

Get those headers on yet?