Protune Datalog; Healthy or Not so much?

This datalog was done in 3rd gear WOT from 1500~7000. Got tons of mods on my car, I guess you could say it's at "Stage 3" or whatever. ID1000, BNR20G, full exhaust, Cobb 70mm Intake, etc.

Could someone please take a look at it and tell me if everything looks good and healthy. It's running a protune, but I'm not so sure it's any good so I'd really appreciate any feedback you can give me.

datalog27.csv

When you say check my fuel trims, to see if there are any leaks, do you mean I should datalog those next time? By leaks you mean actual fuel leaks? I would think I'd smell fuel leaking, but I'll certainly log them just to make sure.

As for TD Boost Error, I've watched the target boost next to the MAP on the gauges and I know that it's often not hitting the target, but again I will log and post the results. What could be the cause of missing the target? Boost leaks?

Fuel trims are the "AF Correction" and "AF Learning". In your log, they are very negative with might mean that there is a boost leak(air leak after the turbo). This may be the cause of timing being pulled up top (-1.4 Fine Learning).

DO NOT RESET YOUR CAR. I've said it before and I don't understand why this always comes up. If your car is pulling timing(or DAM/IAM), let it. It is doing its job to save the motor. Now you need to figure out why its pulling timing, it is usually a boost leak or bad gas.

I only suggested as a secondary consideration resetting to clear the FLKC since the correction is small and generally considered minor (take that w/ a grain of salt as I'm a no knock guy w/ my edited protune). He'd probably never see that FLKC learn itself out b/c the car spends so little time in that rpm/load range. His FLKC is applied from 6500-6900 rpm, and his log indicates an elapsed time of ~1 second. I've never seen FLKC start to unlearn while operating in the corrected region until a fair bit beyond 1 sec elapsed time. So even if he fixed a suspected leak, that FLKC would probably remain just b/c it doesn't operate in that region long enough (per Fine Knock Learning Advance Delay) to let the ECU start adding the pulled timing back, and it would be harder to know if the change made things better or not.

That said, I agree if you have learned corrections (FLKC or altered DAM/IAM), it's best to leave them be. They'd get cleared if the tuner made adjustments and the revised calibration file was flashed anyway.

He'd probably never see that FLKC learn itself out b/c the car spends so little time in that rpm/load range. His FLKC is applied from 6500-6900 rpm, and his log indicates an elapsed time of ~1 second. I've never seen FLKC start to unlearn while operating in the corrected region until a fair bit beyond 1 sec elapsed time. So even if he fixed a suspected leak, that FLKC would probably remain just b/c it doesn't operate in that region long enough (per Fine Knock Learning Advance Delay) to let the ECU start adding the pulled timing back, and it would be harder to know if the change made things better or not.

+1. I agree with your statement. Whenever I had a boost leak develop (by noticing my A/F trims slowing drifting from 0%), the ECU began to pull timing. I then went ahead and searched for the leak, fixed it, reset the ECU. And all was well. When I was not resetting the ECU AFTER having fixed the leak, it took forever to get the timing back.

Moral of the story, ALWAYS keep an eye on your A/F learned trims AND your FLKC and FKC, especially if you are modified.

About that Fine Knock Learning, I would agree that you should reset, but first contact your tuner. He may know something about that learned knock or it may have been an incident of bad gas, etc.

That being said, is there a reason it's tuned for under 18lbs of boost? I'd think you could safely run low 20s boost with that turbo, but I don't know your full mod list.

I would think bad gas manifesting as knock would more readily happen at the more knock prone peak torque and slightly past peak torque regions under WOT, but I am by no means a tuner.

This might have nothing to do w/ OP's high RPM FLKC, but figured I'd throw it out there as an anecdote:

Last year I had my car on the rollers and we noticed signs that my DW65c pump was getting 'tired'. During 3rd gear pulls, AFR tracked correctly but during 4th gear pulls, AFR would go lean after ~5500 rpm. Fueling was then deliberately made richer up top, and in 3rd gear AFR did dip rich, but in 4th it continued to spike lean. We replaced the pump. W/ the new pump in place and the deliberately richer high RPM fueling map still in place, high RPM AFR dipped rich in both 3rd and 4th (confirming the old fuel pump as the culprit). The correct fueling was put back in place and away we went. No knock occurred up top, but the WBO2 showed us suspicious behavior that if left unchecked, would probably have resulted in knock eventually.

... is there a reason it's tuned for under 18lbs of boost? I'd think you could safely run low 20s boost with that turbo, but I don't know your full mod list.

OP's datalog doesn't include TD Boost Error, so it's possible it's already tuned for higher boost but simply isn't hitting target.

Still working on getting some new data with AF Learning 1A, B, C, D and TD Boost Error.

In the meantime I thought it may be important to mention that the tune was originally done with a DW65C, but I've since switched back to the oem pump because I thought there was a problem with the DW. I know that probably wasn't the best idea, but I could not see where it was causing harm because I wasn't smart enough to look in the right places.

As for the 18psi peak boost, I think the reason the tuner stopped there is he wasn't seeing any gains beyond 18psi. I'm thinking the 100deg+ weather that day had something to do with that, it had to be very hot in the shop let alone under the hood. He was doing everything he could to cool her down, taking breaks, 6 fans , spraying the IC with water, etc.

When I said boo about the quality of the tune they just refunded my money, now I'm just trying to determine if it's safe to keep driving it or if I should get another tune asap. I'm trying to hold off on tuning till I can put a better turbo on there, the two tuners I've talked with said the BNR 20G spools slow like a big turbo but then never delivers.

For a complete list of my mods please reference my sloppy poorly updated build thread... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/elgins-engine-rebuild-and-upgrade-20g-td05h-turbo-supporting-mods-223646.html

Probably not a good sign when your tuner shuts down to spray the intake and intercooler with water in an attempt to cool the intake air temp down to something reasonable.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc228/elginowens_photos/Legacy%20GT%20Project/IMAG2403-1.jpg

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc228/elginowens_photos/DynoTestResults_1.jpg

Probably not a good sign when your tuner shuts down to spray the intake and intercooler with water in an attempt to cool the intake air temp down to something reasonable.

Eh, maybe not representative of a real world scenario, but maybe not so bad. Back when I used to bring my 93 RX7 to the dragstrip in moderately warm temps, most of us w/ turbocharged cars had bags of ice sitting on top of the IC and intake piping while waiting in the staging lines or taking a break in the pit area.

I looked at your mods list. Others w/ more hardware/tuning experience will probably weigh in, but I would think the OEM pump would have trouble keeping up w/ your larger injectors and the 20G. That could very well be causing the knock you're seeing way up top (running out of fuel up there).

That could absolutely cause an issue especially in warmer temperatures. It didn't look like your IDC was anywhere near maxed out.

Still working on getting some new data with AF Learning 1A, B, C, D and TD Boost Error.

 

In the meantime I thought it may be important to mention that the tune was originally done with a DW65C, but I've since switched back to the oem pump because I thought there was a problem with the DW. I know that probably wasn't the best idea, but I could not see where it was causing harm because I wasn't smart enough to look in the right places.

 

As for the 18psi peak boost, I think the reason the tuner stopped there is he wasn't seeing any gains beyond 18psi. I'm thinking the 100deg+ weather that day had something to do with that, it had to be very hot in the shop let alone under the hood. He was doing everything he could to cool her down, taking breaks, 6 fans , spraying the IC with water, etc.

 

When I said boo about the quality of the tune they just refunded my money, now I'm just trying to determine if it's safe to keep driving it or if I should get another tune asap. I'm trying to hold off on tuning till I can put a better turbo on there, the two tuners I've talked with said the BNR 20G spools slow like a big turbo but then never delivers.

 

For a complete list of my mods please reference my sloppy poorly updated build thread... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/elgins-engine-rebuild-and-upgrade-20g-td05h-turbo-supporting-mods-223646.html

Personally, If I were you, I'd put that DW65 back in if it is in proper working condition and get it tuned for E85.

On another note, I always like to compare real chassis dyno numbers to road dyno numbers. This is your datalog you provided and I ran it through Virtual Dyno. I made corrections to the graph below to account for higher temperatures, weight, and the normal atmospheric pressure you might be seeing for the run.

I have a very similar setup with the differences being I use a GS TMIC and a Kinugawa TD05-20G. My turbo spools faster as I hit 20PSI by about 3500RPM. I am running higher boost at 20PSI, but you are running a couple more degrees of timing.

Overall something doesn't seem right. You should be making more power with your setup. I would look into a Kinugawa 20G TD06-SL2.

Here is a comparison of mine vs your log in virtual dyno. My run is up a slight incline which is why my peak HP isn't super high.