Jackal's 20g to 18g e85 Soap Opera

These are the droids you are looking for. I got them off of NASIOC.

You want the '08+ GRB / GVF items. Pick up the valve springs while you're at it. The exhaust cam designs are totally different from the BR9 items, maybe even the centerlines are different. We normally use totally different cam timing strategies on the BR9 vs. the GRB, but swapping the exhaust cams allows the same cam timing maps developed on the GRB to be applied. We can get much more torque and much earlier spool with larger turbos by running more exhaust cam retard at lower revs. I've tried the same approach on the stock BR9 motor to little effect. Dropping the motor to install the cams and then not retuning AVCS would probably get you the bump in torque but you'd leave a lot of improved spool and low-rpm response on the table.

There were some GRB cams for sale here a few weeks back btw.

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So is installing them straightforward, just swapping the parts out? And then the timing differences you are talking about involve the avcs timing tables?

Sometimes I feel like you should be charging us for your knowledge! Thank you very much for being so helpful!

Hehe. Maybe I should put my paypal link in my sig...

Yes, the cams install straight up, align timing marks as usual and off you go. Since you guys are MT, you may well want to take advantage of the improved VE at higher revs by moving redline up a bit. In this case I'd strongly advise taking the GRB valve springs a guy selling used cams probably has laying around as well.

A simple approach to tuning would be to copy the GRB AVCS tables and graft them into the LGT ROM, Note the tables are not the same size in the two ROMs so you need to be able to rescale them. We have our own optimized AVCS tables which are the result of many hours of dyno time on an EJ257-powered Saker race car, developed by a far more talented tuner than I. Much as I'd like to help I can't just share this work with you guys.

Hehe. Maybe I should put my paypal link in my sig...

 

Yes, the cams install straight up, align timing marks as usual and off you go. Since you guys are MT, you may well want to take advantage of the improved VE at higher revs by moving redline up a bit. In this case I'd strongly advise taking the GRB valve springs a guy selling used cams probably has laying around as well.

 

A simple approach to tuning would be to copy the GRB AVCS tables and graft them into the LGT ROM, Note the tables are not the same size in the two ROMs so you need to be able to rescale them. We have our own optimized AVCS tables which are the result of many hours of dyno time on an EJ257-powered Saker race car, developed by a far more talented tuner than I. Much as I'd like to help I can't just share this work with you guys.

The information provided is awesome and more than enough to send me in and others in the right direction and give some to a tuner! Thank you very much!

So I ordered my EWG header from Six Star today and will also be having it coated. Interestingly enough they said they are in the process of building another one right now. Anybody on here having one made?

I don't want to give it away if he's keeping it a secret (not even sure it's them) but I know you're not the only one who has recently PM'd me about my EWG header.

I think your drama has turned into an enabling session!

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In the spirit of always keeping a little Panda drama afoot, I've noticed that the car will 'hiccup' in certain situations. If I am running at ~60% throttle when I shift (so ~60% throttle in one gear, then shift and roughly match that throttle position in the next) the car will stutter. I can feel it and I physically see my boost building smoothly up to around 5 PSI, then it drops down to around 0 PSI, then resumes building smoothly.

This doesn't happen at lower throttle positions which is how I usually drive, but as I said, if I'm a little more spirited on the throttle, it makes this little hiccup which also seems to be accompanied by a pop in the exhaust. Here is a datalog from last night for reference. If you plot the curves, you can see the dip in the MAF curve quite clearly.

Any thoughts?

stage 2.5 shift hiccup.csv

So I ordered my EWG header from Six Star today and will also be having it coated. Interestingly enough they said they are in the process of building another one right now. Anybody on here having one made?

I think I have an idea of who it might be do to some pm's a couple of months ago. Don't think it's the same person acumen might be speaking off based off post count.

In the spirit of always keeping a little Panda drama afoot, I've noticed that the car will 'hiccup' in certain situations. If I am running at ~60% throttle when I shift (so ~60% throttle in one gear, then shift and roughly match that throttle position in the next) the car will stutter. I can feel it and I physically see my boost building smoothly up to around 5 PSI, then it drops down to around 0 PSI, then resumes building smoothly.

 

This doesn't happen at lower throttle positions which is how I usually drive, but as I said, if I'm a little more spirited on the throttle, it makes this little hiccup which also seems to be accompanied by a pop in the exhaust. Here is a datalog from last night for reference. If you plot the curves, you can see the dip in the MAF curve quite clearly.

 

Any thoughts?

When I was on my stage 2 etune, before the creep began, I used to also have a certain hesitation/stumble during partial throttle in higher gears. I never found out what it was attributed to though since I removed the DP.

Do you stay up late at night thinking up weird scenarios just to stump all of us. In all seriousness I have no idea on this one. If it was at various throttle ranges I might say it was something in your tune, but at only 60% throttle I am stumped.

When I was on my stage 2 etune, before the creep began, I used to also have a certain hesitation/stumble during partial throttle in higher gears. I never found out what it was attributed to though since I removed the DP.

I wish that were the case but I'm not clever enough to make this stuff up! To your point though, I did use 60% only as an example. I don't know exactly what load/throttle ranges it starts happening at but it isn't at low throttle where I spend most of my time driving. As I write this and think about your comment regarding the tune, I guess in normal driving mode the car is still in closed loop. I should maybe try to test if this only happens in open loop situations....

I have also reached out to my tuner for his thoughts but I like to see what kind of feedback I get on here and if nothing else, it lets you all know the gremlins haven't departed just yet

I too have a stumble during light throttle roll on, specifically between 2600 and 3400 rpms. Logan was never able to see anything in my logs. I believe it is the infamous Subaru stumble that rears it's ugly head when going to Stage 1 or more. I have the fuel line sitting in the garage to do the fix mod, just haven't had the time to try it out.

Yup, the famous stumble on the low end. It's because when the turbo spools up around those RPMs is where the ECU requires more fuel, but doesn't detect it. A good tune or a better fuel regulator can help this.

I too have a stumble during light throttle roll on, specifically between 2600 and 3400 rpms. Logan was never able to see anything in my logs. I believe it is the infamous Subaru stumble that rears it's ugly head when going to Stage 1 or more. I have the fuel line sitting in the garage to do the fix mod, just haven't had the time to try it out.

What fuel line mod are you referring to? Is this similar to the GR & VA STI FPR kit that Cobb produces?

http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/fuel-system/subaru-fuel-pressure-regulator-kit-sti-2008-2016

So this is essentially a transient lean condition that occurs? Does it happen at WOT as well? I ask because I haven't rolled WOT through the gears in a long, long time and I don't remember this happening when I did it last.

There's a few different threads on this subject, but each car is a little different. Some have fixed the problem just be swapping out the fuel regulator with a STI fuel regulator, and others with a pro tune. Once the Turbo spools up, the ECU is detecting if there is enough fuel for the increase in pressure/load. When it doesn't detect it, it tries to adjust itself causing the stubble effect. Usually after 3k RPMs the ECU has adjusted and power is restored.