What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?

Not sure. I think it's zero though haha

Post a picture of it.

Sounds exactly what mine did about 6 months ago. You get used to it quick.

Also nice to have a passenger

Hi LW. Did you repair yours? It'll be too cold for me to be messing around with repairs that I have no clue about, but in Spring (about 11 mths from now) maybe I'll tackle it.

It still locks properly and can unlock/lock from the inside but around and around it goes when I use the key. Strange.

Nope Which was really a pain when I accidentally locked my

seatbelt in my door when I closed it so I had to walk back around

the passenger side and unlock it, then come back around to open

my driver door and pull my seatbelt out.

Also, not sure if you know how to lock it without having to

go to the passenger side, but there's a way.

XD @ 11 months

I just need a new handle/key combo, but the junk cars either have

keys or handles. Never both.

Dang...that sounds awesome The Legacy's always

had really poor lighting.

for really good quality, cheap HIDS i recommend DDM tuning. Lifetime warranty, and they sell 35W and 55W sets.

okay ill probely get them so then my next question is will i need to get the error eliminator, and HID harness (Dual in, Dual out)? also they say there 55w washes out some of the color in the lights (55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). so should i just go with the 8000k then?

and does it matter if i get the Hi/Low set up lol?

okay ill probely get them so then my next question is will i need to get the error eliminator, and HID harness (Dual in, Dual out)? also they say there 55w washes out some of the color in the lights (55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). so should i just go with the 8000k then?

 

and does it matter if i get the Hi/Low set up lol?

for a 92 legacy im pretty sure you wont need the error eliminator. i think people with the newer legacy's are getting them though (2003 +). About the Dual in Dual out harness.. Some cars need them and some dont. Its a relay harness that provides the lights with a larger amount of power/more stable power (power straight from the battery instead of the voltage from your original headlights) and it uses the 12v signal from your original headlights to activate the relays instead of powering the lights. The HIDs need to warm up, and they must have a certain voltage to "fire." It cant hurt to have the harness, but ide say if you were just ordering the 35 watt low beam HIDs dont get it. If you are going with Low and High beam HIDs ide say get the harness. Also if you go 55 watt, just to be safe i would get the harness since they use quite a bit more power and would place a significantly higher load on your factory wiring. 35 watts is enough for most people

okay ill probely get them so then my next question is will i need to get the error eliminator, and HID harness (Dual in, Dual out)? also they say there 55w washes out some of the color in the lights (55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). so should i just go with the 8000k then?

 

and does it matter if i get the Hi/Low set up lol?

mine are garunteed to not wash out so im goona stick with VVME and it only cost me 50 bucks for the kit. i got a deep blue with 55w bulbs and hihgs and lows

mine are garunteed to not wash out so im goona stick with VVME and it only cost me 50 bucks for the kit. i got a deep blue with 55w bulbs and hihgs and lows

VVME is great as well. DDM just has a lifetime warranty whereas the VVME is a one year limited. Its really a draw as i have read the VVME are slightly better quality.

Got an ECU from another site for $25 so when

it gets here we'll see if it helps haha

Who knows...if it fixes the issues, nothing. If

it doesn't I suppose I'll explain the problems haha

So the ECU didnt fix the problem.

I've replaced the ECU, knock sensor,

coil pack and I think something else

so far. I have a spare crank and cam

sensor I'm gonna throw on tonight.

I think I may have fried some wiring.

Ok, so I copied this from another forum.

Here's the scenario:

About two months ago I did an engine swap. This engine sounded great, ran great and not a bit of smoke or oil leaks so I bought it and took it home. I pulled off the valve covers and oil pan and sprayed the whole thing out with a gas/air mixture. I put on a new front main seal, rear main seal and cam seals. It got a new water pump, thermostat, timing belt, idler pulleys and valve cover gaskets. I ran some BG44k through it after it fired up to clean out any excess carbon and the engine was running awesome! I installed a manual oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it since it was a new engine.

Well the other week the oil pressure gauge piping started to have a small leak due to having to move it once and reuse the compression fitting. I ended up trying to use black RTV around it to prevent it from leaking and that didnt work. It had kicked on the oil light, but I was watching the psi and it read fine and the oil light went back off. Well it happened again so I thought about buying new piping. One day it was on for about 30 seconds so I shut the car off and it went away. I ended up going up and buying new piping for it that day and when I went to change it out the new piping was crimped. Well I took that back and got another. It was crimped too so I just bought an entire new gauge. I installed the gauge yesterday. When I went to install it I had taken the alternator off and before I set it down I noticed I had forgot to disconnect the wiring on top or on the battery. It had been a long day with little sleep the night before so I started to take it off and I dropped the alternator on the radiator support and blew out the fusibile link. So I ended up making a new one with new fusible link wiring from autozone and it ran perfectly yesterday.

So today it had been running awesome all morning and I went to my girlfriend's house. Well it was time for church so we left. Now I know it's an old car that I just recently swapped the engine on so I got up to 40 and I sped up pretty slowly up to 50 when the sign changed speeds and the car started to feel a little laggy and went away so I drove a bit further to see if it'd do it again and four seconds later it started to feel laggy again so I start to slow down to pull over and the engine shut off while I was driving. I put it in neutral and coasted to a stop without power steering or braking. I shut the car down and looked under the alternator and found oil coming out of the gauge piping. I started the car back up and it was running rough as I was watching the oil pressure through the gauge (didnt get to see the RPM's) and it was shaking...feeling like it was missing or something so I shut it back off after about 5 seconds. I ended up putting the old oil plug back on there and connected the line again and started it up and it sounded find. Ran smooth. Idled smooth. I drove it back home about 10 miles to my parents house and it drove perfect the whole time. I watched the temp gauge the whole drive didnt move after it got up to running temperature. I checked the oil and no milk and I checked the coolant and no oil. All of the fluids on the car are at the proper level and everything to my knowledge is plugged in.

Could it have been the leak in the gauge piping? Not having that sensor hooked up?

Anyone have this happen before or have any ideas?