lgtvf52 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 hey guys so I figured I would finally make a thread about my lgt from when I bought the car to its current state and build! sorry about being so long! So lets get started shall we.. I bought my 2005 OBP GT limited in May 2013 with 110k miles. Bought the car knowing the PO threw 3 turbos on the car hoping the car would run right.. finally I got the car and had the VF52 rebuilt with a billet comp. wheel, while I was waiting for that to come back I checked the oil lines turned out the banjo bolt closest to the turbo was clogged and starved the turbo(s) of oil. replaced all the lines and banjos got everything back together. finally got it running.. was idling very low and wanted to stall after everytime I let off the gas. turns out it was the passenger side TGV was stuck closed, choking the two cylinders. Bought TGV deletes installed them, car still had a low idle higher than before but still low because the ecu still had the codes in the memory. Finally I drive the car a bit and decide I'm gonna go for a drive up the mountain and on my way there car was running good and i get about half way up the and white smoke everywhere!! shut the car off and coast off the road, opened the hood and the radiator blew (top plastic part). had to get towed home. ordered a mishimoto all aluminum radiator. installed then said great time for a tune and get the car running like she should. dyno tune at efilogics and the motor spun a bearing.. After the motor blew I was trying to decide if I wanted to rebuild the stock block and do some upgrades or just get a STi shortblock and throw it all together. I decided to pull the motor and rebuild the stock block, fast forward a little bit and we get the motor out and tear it all down and as you can see from the photo the bearings were destroyed but surprisingly the cylinder walls had no scoring or anything so I went and bought ACL main and rod bearings and new Manley forged pistons (kept the stock CR at 8.5:1). had the block honed and that leaves me sitting where I am right now as I have to wait to order the crank tonight or tomorrow! then its time for the assembly! also I deleted the oil cooler with the union from a 2.5i Please chime in if you have any questions or suggestions, Thanks for reading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Change oil pick up GS Master Cycle Brace Stainless Brake lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I'd get a new oil cooler. Just because it's a good idea, and may be a new coolant cross-over pipe as well. Before you open the bearing box, make sure the new crank and the bearings you ordered will match up. I know you have a local Subby guy, I just don't want you to find out the crank has a different size journal then the bearings you bought. I think you have my thread from my rebuild. Make sure you check all the small things, and clean the grounds and sensors well. Tighten the fuel line clamps, grease the starter shaft. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Why does everyone say to get a new oil pick up? Do they break easy? I have heard to replace it with a killer b oil pickup but what's the advantages? And will do byron! I have triple checked the journal sizes but will of course check again before installation and everything Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Why does everyone say to get a new oil pick up? Do they break easy? I have heard to replace it with a killer b oil pickup but what's the advantages? And will do byron! I have triple checked the journal sizes but will of course check again before installation and everything Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 The brass welds are known to fail causing oil starvation. The reason most people suggest you fix this problem is it's cost effective when the motor is out. Plus after a rebuild to have a failure on a known issue would be... silly. $130 fix is cheap compared to a rebuild. I did mine or the shop wouldn't warranty the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 The brass welds are known to fail causing oil starvation. The reason most people suggest you fix this problem is it's cost effective when the motor is out. Plus after a rebuild to have a failure on a known issue would be... silly. $130 fix is cheap compared to a rebuild. I did mine or the shop wouldn't warranty the work. Ok sounds good I'd much rather not have ti pull the motor again thank you! Lol I'm probably going to order it tonight Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blongo804 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 The KillerB pick up is my favorite, most reliable, most forgotten mod that I have. Good luck with your build man! I'll keep an eye on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Crankshaft is on order should be in on friday or saturday. Will be ordering the Killer B oil pick up and all the tensioners/pulleys/bearings for the timing belt tomorrow night. once the crank gets here I should be good to start assembly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Great, looking forward to seeing your results. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 hey guys so I still have not had time to get my crankshaft from the dealer so the motor is currently at a stand still. However I did receive my killer B oil pick up. looks great amazing quality piece and great welds. also had a question, when my motor build is all finished I will eventually need to get the car tuned and my thought was that instead of putting on the stock parts (uppipe, downpipe) again if I bought a Cobb AP and took one of the off the shelf stage 2 maps and adjusted it for the 650cc injectors and put on the new DP and UP would that be ok for the break in miles? or is this a bad idea? please explain. Sorry if its a stupid idea. lol thanks everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 I finally got my crankshaft shipped to me! I dropped it off with my engine builder along with the killer B oil pick up and gates timing belt pulleys and tensioners so now we can actually start putting this thing back together. Cant wait to drive it again, its been way to long! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Also wanted to ask if anyone has a suggestion for motor oil for the break in 1000 miles and afterwards too thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Ahhhh finally started to get the crank and connecting rods back together to make the shortblock again, BUT... of course I find out the rods are for some reason resisting to turn or the crank. Looks like I am goingn to be getting new rods after all. lol. just ordered my Cobb AP V3 this morning before I founf that out! dammit. that being said anyone have a set of Either stock or Aftermarket rods? New or Used (if used please none that spun bearings...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Also wanted to ask if anyone has a suggestion for motor oil for the break in 1000 miles and afterwards too thanks guys Any good dino oil will be fine. I used Castrol GTX 5w-30 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Any good dino oil will be fine. I used Castrol GTX 5w-30 Is that just what you used for break in or is that what you are still using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Ahhhh finally started to get the crank and connecting rods back together to make the shortblock again, BUT... of course I find out the rods are for some reason resisting to turn or the crank. Looks like I am goingn to be getting new rods after all. lol. just ordered my Cobb AP V3 this morning before I founf that out! dammit. that being said anyone have a set of Either stock or Aftermarket rods? New or Used (if used please none that spun bearings...) What's the gap between the bearing and crank ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Standard size with extra .001" oil clearance two rods were fine but other two were hard to turn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 You may want to plasti gauge those last two bearings to make sure the clearance is correct. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 I believe he did already but I'm gonna see if he can check again thanks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 My new cobb accessport v3 came the other day looks nice can't waut to put it to use when the motor is done and in! In other news just bought connecting rods from another member on here and should be here in a few days then I just need to get arp head studs and back together the motor goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Connecting rods came as well as the arp head studs now need to get it all back together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Is that just what you used for break in or is that what you are still using? Sorry just saw this. Yes just for the first 2000 miles or then went to Amsoil European 5w-40 Full SAPS year round. My cars see mostly highway miles, so I'm not worried about the 40 in the winter. I also use their EA15k13 filters. I have both banjo filters removed too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Shortblock loaded and now time to pull it back apart and check clearances... finally lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 I just noticed that I haven't updated this thread in quite some time! Just wanted to show you guys that the motor will be done tomorrow night!! Got the Manley forged pistons in the block... Then the ARP head studs.. And as it sits right now... Full longblock!! just needs the cam gears, timing belt components! Sorry about the poor quality photos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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