New Ball Joint needed at 48k Miles?? Normal?

I had my car in for a PA inspection last week and the dealership said that my passenger side wheel had some play in it, so I would have to replace my ball joint. I agreed so I brought it back to have the work done on Tuesday. I get a call from the dealership saying that they cannot get the ball joint out and that I would have to replace the whole knuckle at the price of $740! I asked the mechanic if this was something normal for a car that only has 48,000 miles. He said that it was definitely not a common issue and that I must have just got a bad one. Has anyone else had this problem?? I am thinking there is nothing I can do about it other than to pay for it. I was just shocked when I got the call saying they couldn't get the ball joint out. Thanks for letting me vent!

It could happen, i tried to pull the ball joint out of mine for hours, built a puller and everything. Took it into a local shop and they stuck a screw driver into the cast iron and snapped it. Got some 07 tribeca spindles from the junkyard for super cheap. The spindles are pretty easy to put on/ get off. My car had 95k miles though and the ball joints were literally rusted into the spindles.

You aren't actually thinking about paying the $740 to have them do this...are you?

This is completely normal............for a Ford or Chevy pickup.

Seriously, you could buy two brand new aluminum spec B control arms for that price and take your lady friend out for a nice dinner and a movie.

sounds like there pussys that cant swing a hammer. I suggest going to another shop.

^^^^What he said, or just because I'm a nice:rolleyes: I'll do it for half that price .

 

Mike

So I gather your outside the 5 year or 60,000 mile warrenty. Or is that just drivetrain?

 

Like others have said take it some where else.

 

Or, They broke the part, they should replace it. If you can move the car tell them to go to junk yard and get one.

 

The car just needed a ball joint.

 

 

No this is not normal to replace a ball joint on a Subaru.

Thanks everyone for the input, I was't thinking this was something that was normal. I was going to take it somewhere else, so I asked if I could have the car back. They told me that it was undrivable the way they had it. So, I would have to wait until the parts came in. They gave me the option to put a used one on, but couldn't give me any details about how many miles were on it or anything. Plus it only had a 30 day warranty and still was $430. The car only had a 3 year/36k mile. So it looks like I am getting stuck with the bill. I don't know what else to do.

go to harbor freight and get a puller and get it out in about 10 min or less.

Thats bs man they could get that out if enough effort is put in, things such as pb blaster or power lube can be used to break that ball joint loose, someone is to lazy to put the effort in, if you ask me

Which/What dealership are you saying here? A Subaru dealership?

Never agree to fix anything til they show you it or you already know that it's bad.

There Isn't much you can do other then pay for the labor that they already did and take it to another shop and pay them too or have them replace it for however much it was. Either way you're gonna pay.

You even know if its bad or not? Was it clunking when cornering, turning or going over a slight uneven pavement?

What a scam....yeah, the ball joints fail around that time(at least in both of my LGT and spec b) but the replacements are like $20 or less online(don't go OEM, they obviously suck). You should be fine driving on it home or to a different shop, unless they broke something. I have replaced 4 of these at my house with a basic wrench set, screw driver, and hammer in a coupe hours....get it done right,DIY!

I'm guessing they broke the pinch bolt. They should be able to put the castle nut back on and cotter pin in and it should be safe.

 

The car is safe to drive a short way.

 

 

I'm also guessing you need to find out what "they" damaged.

 

Think about it, they should have knowledge that these are a PITA and should know how to avoid breaking things. If the bolt did break, they should know how to drill it out.

 

They quoted you the cost to replace a ball joint. Anything they screwed up should be on them. Call the state's attorney and may be file a complaint with your DVM, Call SOA and bitch them out too.

 

Don't get me going...

One more thing. If you do decide to have this dealership fix it. Stay with and watch em fix it. Never drop it off and go home/work/read a magazine/take a nap. They may not of even replaced it since they couldn't even take it off. Always watch em fix your car(start to finish) even if you don't know much. That's what I always do, that way I know that it was actually replaced and not a I think it was replaced.

Or just ask them to provide you the replaced/failed parts when picking up the car. A lot of shops do not allow non-staff into the bay due to insurance liability. I learned this the hard way when I had an indy shop work on my 2nd gen LGT and they didn't actually replace anything I was billed for.

Or just ask them to provide you the replaced/failed parts when picking up the car. A lot of shops do not allow non-staff into the bay due to insurance liability. I learned this the hard way when I had an indy shop work on my 2nd gen LGT and they didn't actually replace anything I was billed for.

 

 

True but what if you aren't a car person and don't know much. They showed you a wheel bearing when it was suppose to be a ball joint. Yeah, they replaced it. Um, no they didn't. They replaced a wheel bearing not a ball joint.

Always watch em work on your car. Sneak around, stand by the door, anything other then go read a magazine or go home like I see everyone doing when I go get my car worked on.

I'm like the only one who does that. It's my car, If I want to watch, I'll watch. Don't tell me what to do.

Same here, I learned this the hard way too which it was I watch em work on my car start to finish instead of reading a magazine.

Valid points for sure. Luckily I do know the difference and also have a spot where I can spectate work being done!

This is a Subaru dealership that I take my car to. It was not making any noises or anything when I took it in. You are all right, I am not really a DIY car guy and normally I do sit there and watch them...I watched them while they did the inspection, but not the ball joint. Now I am wishing I would have.

 

I would have taken it to get another opinion, but at the time, I didn't know it could have been put back together and driven safetly. I do plan on contacting SOA, but not really sure if that will go anywhere. It will just make me feel better that I said something. I know for next time, I will not be taking it back there for any more ball joint issues.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Just a crappy situation I got into.

You guy's need to find a good local repair shop the you can build a relationship with to do all your maintenance.

 

Ask around at work who people take they cars to. You will find some good shops out there.

 

I have been going to the same shop since the early 80's. They now me and my son and we send are friends to them. The same with my machine shop and body shop. I found out last year my tranny shop buddy now works for the machine shop buddy, how great is that.

 

I stop in every now and then just to say hi.

ball joints fail for a number of reasons..

 

excessive load, lack of lubrication, defects.

 

i often see ball joints fail after the tables have been removed.

 

because the rubber or interanny damaged.

 

i had a very difficult time removing one of my ball joints. at 160 000 km

 

you need to be very carefull with opening up the gap because it will crack the casting.

 

so either heat or soak the whole thing in diesel fuel or penetrating oil.

 

but 750$ is stupid. but if you replace the knuckel you have to remove the bearing. witch you should replace.

 

a used knuckel with bearing would be ok but how good is that bearing ? the right thing to do is used knuckel. with new bearing and ball joint.

Why did you bring it in for inspection for? The free one or what?

Isn't your car still under warranty?

I don't think your ball joint is bad at all.

Now watch em fix and replace the ball joint. Don't go home because they might be screwing you by collecting the $750 and not of even replaced your Ball joint.

 

They really must not know what they're doing if that's labor $ but its not. I know what they're doing. Trying to make excuse that this and that has to come off because of blah and blah. Now it's this much. $$$$$

I know all there tricks and scrams and this is one of them.

I wonder how much and simple oil change for $30 would end of costing? $200 now because this didn't come off and we had to do this and that. Oh and we also did this.

I wonder what your total price would be? $900 because they had to do this and that too.

I feel so bad for you. That's just not right and we all know it

Well, it can happen with this design. I've replaced many, many balljoints and I had a tough time disconnecting mine. The balljoints definitly get seized into place. Even after drilling the pinch bolt it takes lots of patience to get the balljoint out of the knuckle.

Last year when I was replacing my lca bushings, I snapped the lock bolt that held the ball joint into the knuckle. I took the knuckle of and brought it to a local machine shop. He drilled it out and retapped it for me, also removed the ball joint. He had this done in less than a day, and he only works till noon lol. Not to mention he pressed my bushings in for me and all of it only cost me $60. New ball joint picked up at national auto was ~$20.

 

That being said, I have a serious distaste for any dealership or garage that have workers with less than adequate skill and knowledge. I'm extremely picky on who touches my car for any kind of maintenance, hence why I'm rebuilding my motor and installing it my self. Finding a good local or somewhat local shop you can build a rapport with them is important. It will save you money and headaches in the long run.