97 Outback needs a motor

I've been pouring over this for a couple days now and here is where I'm at: My girlfriend's son has a 97 Outback 2.5L that blew the motor. Been trying to figure out what to replace it with that is available locally, so he can get it back quickly. I found a 2.2L in good shape, yada yada, for $400. Was told it was a better motor, more reliable and simple plug and play swap. Please, share your opinions, thoughts and expertise! Thanks in advance and enjoy the weekend! (I'll be pulling a motor...)

it depends on the year of the 2.2L engine.

 

so you tell me that and i'll tell you how easy and what you need.some years are better than others and some are easier. and some will work but you will always have a CEL. that can be a problem for some state inspections.

 

when you say the engine ''blew'' what do you mean?

By blew, I mean I'm betting timing belt broke. Funny noise, then nothing. Now, when we hit the key, just click. Like motor stuck. Yard that has motor not sure of year, just said "plug and play". We live in Vt, not sure CEL that important, just a pain in the ass. I'll have yard get number off motor for me. What years am I hoping for?

Actually, yard guy now says its a 97. That makes nervous. Little while ago he didn't know.

any ej22 will swap - 95 - 98.

90 - 94 will also swap but they are obd1 and you would need an ej22 obd2 intake manifold.

 

ej22 preferred engines for a swap.

 

1/ 95 w/ EGR (usually from an auto trans car) direct swap, use the flex plate that came with your car. non-interference.

 

2/ 96 - 98 w/ EGR (usually from an auto trans car) you will need the exhaust manifold y-pipe, the exhaust ports on the heads changes.

 

NOTE: 95 - 96 are noninterference engines. and they have HLAs, if you pull a valve cover they have NO valve adjustment screws /lock nuts.

 

97 - 98 are interference engines. they have screw and lock nut valve adjustments.

 

your car has EGR attached to the intake manifold on the driver side near the brake cylinder with a small pipe dropping down to the rear of the driver head. hard to see with the engine on the car. with out his you will have a CEL that you can not get rid of.

 

90 - 94 ej22s do not have EGR, none of them.

 

do an advanced search for more info, ''ej25 swap''. lots of info and tips on the swap.

 

interference is not a big deal if you replace all of the toming parts, belt, pulleys, water pump at install.the old style tensioner will probably still be good. they rarely fail. but the pulley should be replaced.

Thanks so much. Some things just work out. I just found a 95 2.2 auto with 150000 miles for $350! I owe you one. Thanks again, Kelly

if an auto trans car, use the flex plate that came with the car. the one on the ej22 will not fit.

 

do not disconnect the coolant lines to the AC compressor, unbolt the compressor bracket and flop it out og the way towards the battery during the R & R. i leave it hanging in place when not actually

''pulling'' or ''installing''. less wear on the lines.

 

use the AC bracket off of the ej25. alternator as well.

 

removing the axles off of the trans gives more room for the lower trans nuts.

 

if you remove the intake manifold before you pull the engine you will have no trouble removing the torque converter bolts. it can be done with the manifold in place, i have done it, but it is much easier with the manifold gone. of course you lose a lift point. i have even put the intake back in place to lift the engine.

 

an old seat belt makes a great lifting strap ask the engine seller.

 

i would replace the oil separator plate on the rear of the engine block, behind the flex plate, before you install the engine. the plate and new bolts are about $35 from the dealer. the factory plate is plastic and they leak like a sieve.

 

do not touch the rear main seal unless it is LEAKING. and i donr mean a little seepage. i mean dripping. they usually last the life of the car unless some one replaces it incorrectly.

 

i would replace all the front seals, cam, crank, oil pump o-ring, and cam cap o-rings. plus ALL the timing components.(theimportexperts on ebay, belt, pulleys and water pump, ~$135 shipped. seals from the dealer, wholesale ~$35, retail ~$40.)

 

and the HLAs will likely make a lot of noise at start up they need to be pumped up with oil. let it idle, it will quiet down in time. some say take it for spirited drive.

 

have fun.

The seals you speak of, are they the cam seals included with this kit or something else?

 

item #260925109309 on ebay. Sorry, don't know how to create link. But always willing to try!

 

90-97 1.8 2.2L Subaru Impreza Legacy EJ18 /EJ22 Timing Belt Kit AISIN Water Pumpwww.ebay.com/itm/90-97-1-8-2-2L-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-EJ18-EJ22-Timing-Belt-Kit-AISIN-Water-Pump-/260925109309?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995%7CMake%3ASubaru&hash=item3cc059343d&vxp=mtr

 

Think I'll order this kit and get the oil separator plate from the dealer. Been plowing too much to get too far but ready to get after it!

Are the seals you mentioned the cam seals in this kit or something else? I think I'll order this kit as well as oil separator plate.

 

 

 

 

item # 260925109309

 

 

Been too busy plowing to get much done, but I'm ready to get to it! Thanks again for advice. Kelly