blackturboblack Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I get this ticking sound from the area of the turbo especially after the car warms up or has been under a load (hill, etc). What the hell is it? This is my first turbo, so I don't know how they're supposed to sound. With a n/a car I would immediately say valve, but I logged with RR and it says all is fine. No misfires, no excess valve action, no weird timing. Anybody help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 It can be a bad gasket. Feel around the turbo with the engine running without touching the parts and see if there is something blowing on your hand. I assume that you mean ticking when the engine is running. If there is a ticking after you turn it off it's just temperature stress relief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Yes, when it's runing. I'll search for air leak. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikul Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Is it a steady tapping? Check your oil level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 Yes, it's stead, like a valve ticking. First thing I did was check oil. I'll re-check though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masshole Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I'm having the same issue. Curious to see what the outcome is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 I'm having the same issue. Curious to see what the outcome is Have you tried any of the suggestions yet? I assume neither one was the answer. I'm going to talk to some people who are into building turbos and I'll post what they say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birchwood Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 How many miles on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 How many miles on the car? Not sure of exact mileage, but under 17k. I think a few hundred over 16. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
__raj Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Not sure of exact mileage, but under 17k. I think a few hundred over 16. Visit dealer as this is under warranty unless car is modified in power train. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Whoops. 19,700. Anyway it actually sounds more like the alternator. Yeah, I guess I'll have to go to the stealer. Damn, I hate to make that trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 Could be bad news for some: 26.Engine Noise A: INSPECTION NOTE*)When disconnecting the fuel injector connector, the malfunction indicator light illuminates and DTC is stored in ECM memory.Therefore, perform the Clear Memory Mode <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-56, OPERATION, Clear Memory Mode.> and InspectionMode <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-45, PROCEDURE, Inspection Mode.> after connecting the fuel injector connector.Type of sound Condition Possible causeRegular clicking soundSound increases as enginespeed increases.• Valve mechanism is defective.• Incorrect valve clearance• Worn camshaft• Broken valve springHeavy and dull clankOil pressure is low.• Worn crankshaft main bearing• Worn connecting rod bearing (large end)Oil pressure is normal.• Loosened flywheel mounting bolt• Damaged engine mountingHigh-pitched clankSound is noticeable whenaccelerating with an overloadcondition.• Ignition timing advanced• Accumulation of carbon inside combustion chamber• Wrong spark plug• Improper gasolineClank when engine speed isbetween 1,000 and 2,000 rpm.Sound is reduced when fuelinjector connector of noisy cylinderis disconnected.(NOTE*)• Worn crankshaft main bearing• Worn connecting rod bearing (large end)Knocking sound when engineis operating under idling speedand engine is warmSound is reduced when fuelinjector connector of noisy cylinderis disconnected.(NOTE*)• Worn cylinder liner and piston ring• Broken or stuck piston ring• Worn piston pin and hole at piston end of connecting rodSound is not reduced if eachfuel injector connector is disconnectedin turn. (NOTE*)• Unusually worn valve lifter• Worn cam sprocket• Worn camshaft journal bore in cylinder headSqueaky sound — Insufficient generator lubricationRubbing sound — Poor contact of generator brush and rotorGear scream when startingengine—• Defective ignition starter switch• Worn gear and starter pinionSound like polishing glass witha dry cloth—• Loose V-belt• Defective water pump shaftHissing sound —• Insufficient compression• Air leakage in air intake system, hose, connection or manifoldTiming belt noise —• Loose timing belt• Belt contacting with case/adjacent part Valve noise — Incorrect valve clearance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Back from the stealer. First, the mech who looked at my car and I talked about things. He has an Evo w/ 640 whp-he says. Anyway, we talked about tuning and turbos, etc, because I like to get an idea of what a mech knows and doesn't know. This guy answered all the questions correctly. And the good news is: the ticking IS the valves. But it is also normal because of the turbo heat the clearances are looser= ticking. So, if your car doesn't throw a code (engine misfire probably) don't worry about it. I logged my car half a dozen times, just the 4 cylinders for misfires or knocks and got zippo. Now I'm ready to start tuning. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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