dellguy3700 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 My Turbo recently went. Drove it less than 10 miles less than 2000rpm after I heard the noise and the P0011 cel with flashing cruise came on. No glitter on my dip stick. I bought a VF46, Yeah I should have bought a 16g, vf52 or something similar. New Cobb access port. New Grimspeed up pipe New Banjo bolt gonna leave out the mesh. New Gates racing Timing belt kit. I bought a new oil cooler cuz I read metal shavings can congregate in there then be set free to reek havoc in the engine. 5 Subaru oil filters. New spark plugs. Misc cooper gaskets and such My nephew will be running point on the repair. He has built a pretty nice wrx. Sold it and has a new one to build this spring. So he knows what he is doing. Not listed in order The plan is to drain the oil drop the oil pan check for "Glitter", replace the oil cooler replace the timing belt, water pump, install plugs. Flush the bajeebes out of the oil return line, install the up pipe turbo and down pipe, wrap them up with that turbo wrap. Going to run it 500 miles then change oil, Then replace the oil filter every 500 miles and topping off the oil. Repeat oil changes at 3k henceforth. And yes I use full Synthetic My nephew has a handle on the AP. What am I missing or what should I do differently other than getting a different turbo =(? Someone mentioned getting a stock water pump gasket? I heard I should've gotten a step colder spark plugs... Flame away folks! =) and thanks in advance for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneeky Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Looks like you have it under control. You are way ahead of me when I blew my turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 turbo oil return hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldrego Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 My Turbo recently went. Drove it less than 10 miles less than 2000rpm after I heard the noise and the P0011 cel with flashing cruise came on. No glitter on my dip stick. I bought a VF46, Yeah I should have bought a 16g, vf52 or something similar. New Cobb access port. New Grimspeed up pipe New Banjo bolt gonna leave out the mesh. New Gates racing Timing belt kit. I bought a new oil cooler cuz I read metal shavings can congregate in there then be set free to reek havoc in the engine. 5 Subaru oil filters. New spark plugs. Misc cooper gaskets and such My nephew will be running point on the repair. He has built a pretty nice wrx. Sold it and has a new one to build this spring. So he knows what he is doing. Not listed in order The plan is to drain the oil drop the oil pan check for "Glitter", replace the oil cooler replace the timing belt, water pump, install plugs. Flush the bajeebes out of the oil return line, install the up pipe turbo and down pipe, wrap them up with that turbo wrap. Going to run it 500 miles then change oil, Then replace the oil filter every 500 miles and topping off the oil. Repeat oil changes at 3k henceforth. And yes I use full Synthetic My nephew has a handle on the AP. What am I missing or what should I do differently other than getting a different turbo =(? Someone mentioned getting a stock water pump gasket? I heard I should've gotten a step colder spark plugs... Flame away folks! =) and thanks in advance for the advice What's wrong with one step colder plugs? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 What's wrong with one step colder plugs? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Looks to me like he said he should have gotten one step colder plugs not that theres anything wrong with them.... 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldrego Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Looks to me like he said he should have gotten one step colder plugs not that theres anything wrong with them.... Oops, misread that thanks Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dellguy3700 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Alright, started Thursday. After finishing up some Chipotle, the power went out. I should have realized it was an omen. Started removing TMIC, hoses, and the Coolant reservoir. I took the reservoir and set it down and one of the bottom tubes broke off D"OOHH. $114 later I have a new one. Dropped the oil pan and a gold river runs through it, I am hoping that is from normal wear. We cleaned that out and reinstalled. replaced the oil cooler, and up pipe installed. That is where we stopped. Starting back up tomorrow. Should I get a step cooler than stock spark plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Alright, started Thursday. After finishing up some Chipotle, the power went out. I should have realized it was an omen. Started removing TMIC, hoses, and the Coolant reservoir. I took the reservoir and set it down and one of the bottom tubes broke off D"OOHH. $114 later I have a new one. Dropped the oil pan and a gold river runs through it, I am hoping that is from normal wear. We cleaned that out and reinstalled. replaced the oil cooler, and up pipe installed. That is where we stopped. Starting back up tomorrow. Should I get a step cooler than stock spark plugs? NO, from your 1st post info. I be running OEM plugs. Looks like your not upgrading your DP, so you be running AP(COBB) stage1 tune. :spin:LGT.com opinion on 1 step cooler spark plug then OEM. That I read. -Yes, if your tuner requires it. -No, not required unless you making big HP. -Yes, if your running above stage1 psi.(16psi) -No, if your tuner requires it. They just being lazy or not that good. -No, not required & most people don't run there car hard enough to keep the plugs from fouling up. It really up to you. IMO, OEM plugs will do the job with stock & stage1 tunes. Stage 2 & up (psi above 17) I like one step colder plugs. But you will have fouling issue if you don't run your motor hard enough to keep your plugs clean. I been running then almost 70k with no issues . I just let my tuner know all part info on my car & let him do his thing. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafta Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Hammer Down (or anyone else), when you speak of having to run the car harder to prevent fouling plugs....Does this mean running the car for periods longer than say half an hour in duration to prevent moisture build-up? Or, is it as you say...Running the car harder? If yes to this, exactly what do you mean? Also, how hard is it on our cars to run them for short periods of time ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dellguy3700 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 NO, from your 1st post info. I be running OEM plugs. Looks like your not upgrading your DP, so you be running AP(COBB) stage1 tune. :spin:LGT.com opinion on 1 step cooler spark plug then OEM. That I read. -Yes, if your tuner requires it. -No, not required unless you making big HP. -Yes, if your running above stage1 psi.(16psi) -No, if your tuner requires it. They just being lazy or not that good. -No, not required & most people don't run there car hard enough to keep the plugs from fouling up. It really up to you. IMO, OEM plugs will do the job with stock & stage1 tunes. Stage 2 & up (psi above 17) I like one step colder plugs. But you will have fouling issue if you don't run your motor hard enough to keep your plugs clean. I been running then almost 70k with no issues . I just let my tuner know all part info on my car & let him do his thing. Mike I am going to stay with the stock heat range. If I ever go to stage 2 I will go with a cooler plug. Thanks for the input Hammer Down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hammer Down (or anyone else), when you speak of having to run the car harder to prevent fouling plugs....Does this mean running the car for periods longer than say half an hour in duration to prevent moisture build-up? Or, is it as you say...Running the car harder? If yes to this, exactly what do you mean? Also, how hard is it on our cars to run them for short periods of time ? Boosting, beating on it, flogging it, driving spiritedly, etc Don't have to do it all the time but seeing the upper PRM range once in a while is a good thing. It's tough to do if you have short commutes in this weather because the engine (oil more importantly) isn't fully up to temp so flogging isn't recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafta Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 How hard is it on our cars to run them for short periods of time ? What is it exactly that gets affected most? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 It's not as bad on our cars as it is with diesels. If you don't get the exhaust hot enough, water from combustion will condense in there and then you'll have puddles. It could lead to rot/cancer and holes assuming you don't have a stainless kit. Getting the car hot also boils any water from piston blow by out of the oil to keep its lubricant properties where they should be. These vapors are then sucked out of the crank case and head via the PCV system and routed into the intake to be burned (emissions thing). Those are the first two off the top of my head. As long as you aren't driving the car 30 seconds to the coffee shop one block away and then driving home and parking it, you should be fine. If it's on for more than a couple minutes at a time, I wouldn't worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafta Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thanks guys! I have never been on a more helpful, mature forum than this. Wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Recommended 10+ miles of continuous driving to boil off moisture out of the oil. Anything shorter, I would run OEM plugs & short OCI around 3K. But this is all dependent on what oil & filter used. And what the results of the motor's OA's Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dellguy3700 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Good Morning Everybody! I finished all my mods and Turbo replacement last night. Well at 3:00 am this morning. Thank you so much for the advice and for encouragement! No I am gonna search on the proper break in method for my new vf46. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Is it brand new or new-to-you used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dellguy3700 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Is it brand new or new-to-you used? The Turbo is brand new. and thank you for your advice Bacon Bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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