Tsubo_G Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 I was cruising when the car lost power/went into limp mode. I pulled over and shut the car off. No cel codes on my ap so tried starting the car again, It would lug terribly then die. I Checked lines, vacuum, intercooler pipes , its all connected. I cranked it and gave it gas, the car came alive, but i have to give it constant gas, otherwise it dies. A loud rattling appears when i give the car gas. No acceleration, no cel, what could it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 Update : started my car, this time i didnt have to gas it. Its knocking and rattling like crazy balls. No cel still...why is that? New short block time?! if so good thing i prepared, but why wouldnt there be a cel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 Stop turning it on. Figure out what is causing the knocking and rattling. Sounds like something isn't connected. I would double check from the intake on all the way to the throttle body. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 update: got a code! p0304 cylinder misfire and pfffe code. I'm going to start doing a tear down right now to check for....anything. timing belt maybe? yeah ill stop turning it on. it sounds internal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Knocking sound isn't good - can be a ringland failure or conrod bearing. A compression test is first action. Also inspect the spark plugs so you have to keep track of which plug that comes from which cylinder. Sometimes you can figure out a lot from just looking at the plugs. It may of course be the timing belt so take off the covers and check the belt and pulleys before you do any more cranking. Hand cranking is OK since you won't break things by doing a hand crank. And you may be able to feel and see things you won't discover otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 update: i am in the process of tearing things down. Drained the coolant, and then i removed the radiator. Checked the timing belt, still in good shape not broken, no jumped teeth. then i drained the oil.......GOLD SPARKLY MUTHA F*(*ing FLAKES!!!!!! from what i read from lurking on the forums thats rods correct? if so shorblock time. Would that cause the car to lose power to the point of stalling? ill pull the spark plugs and have a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 update: i am in the process of tearing things down. Drained the coolant, and then i removed the radiator. Checked the timing belt, still in good shape not broken, no jumped teeth. then i drained the oil.......GOLD SPARKLY MUTHA F*(*ing FLAKES!!!!!! from what i read from lurking on the forums thats rods correct? if so shorblock time. Would that cause the car to lose power to the point of stalling? ill pull the spark plugs and have a look. Its shortblock time no matter what it is. Usually flakes is the turbo. Other things you mention line up more with it being the turbo too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 update: i am in the process of tearing things down. Drained the coolant, and then i removed the radiator. Checked the timing belt, still in good shape not broken, no jumped teeth. then i drained the oil.......GOLD SPARKLY MUTHA F*(*ing FLAKES!!!!!! from what i read from lurking on the forums thats rods correct? if so shorblock time. Would that cause the car to lose power to the point of stalling? ill pull the spark plugs and have a look. That's definitely a bad sign, time to look for another engine. It's always a good idea to tear down to see why it broke down - at least something to learn from. Flakes can be a lot of things so before you know what it is you don't know which parts that you can re-use. And when re-using parts make sure they are cleaned well. If the turbo is intact then you should anyway have it rebuilt, a fresh turbo is one future problem less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Sorry to hear of your troubles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Alright. Today im going to pull the engine, tear it apart, separate heads and go from there. I will update everyone on here of my progress....only because i enjoy reading everyone elses build thread. Lets do this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Good luck with the rebuild. So long as the motor is out of the car, it might be time to go stage one million. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyim Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Yeah man good luck! I had a 99 2.5rs that started knocking so I feel the pain. Rebuild it faster, stronger ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 update: pulled out the motor! yup first engine I've ever pulled ever. so I'm in the process of tearing the block down to the bare components. I went to harbor freight and bought an engine stand and 1 ton cherry picker for 150$. Had to youtube how to put the engine on the engine stand...because i don't know sh(*&!!! Now I've take off the intake manifold, header, and uppipe. Took the timing belt off, with the help of youtube again. Didn't need the cam tool, there was this nifty trick using the alternator and the belt that helped me out. I pulled the turbo, no shaft play, no bent fins, totally perfect! Then i proceeded to pull off the oil pan and lo and behold, metal shavings and gold flakes everywhere! ill post pics. So i need to pull those cam pulleys but i don't have the torx bit yet. My goal today is separate the heads. ill keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 update: pulled out the motor! yup first engine I've ever pulled ever. so I'm in the process of tearing the block down to the bare components. I went to harbor freight and bought an engine stand and 1 ton cherry picker for 150$. Had to youtube how to put the engine on the engine stand...because i don't know sh(*&!!! Now I've take off the intake manifold, header, and uppipe. Took the timing belt off, with the help of youtube again. Didn't need the cam tool, there was this nifty trick using the alternator and the belt that helped me out. I pulled the turbo, no shaft play, no bent fins, totally perfect! Then i proceeded to pull off the oil pan and lo and behold, metal shavings and gold flakes everywhere! ill post pics. So i need to pull those cam pulleys but i don't have the torx bit yet. My goal today is separate the heads. ill keep you posted. Rebuild turbo or take this time to VF 52 upgrade like the rest of the forums. No point in funneling 5 qts super tech synthetic or brotella though it and praying it does the trick at this point of engine pull. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 ok ill rebuild/ upgrade the vf52 at jmp or something. Right now I've gotten the valve covers off....trying to figure out how to take out the cams to get to the head studs......IM LOST!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 ok ill rebuild/ upgrade the vf52 at jmp or something. Right now I've gotten the valve covers off....trying to figure out how to take out the cams to get to the head studs......IM LOST!!! IIRC 10MM impact socket set as a regular 10MM socket broke only 2 bolts into the job. Once the cams come out be careful as the buckets may fall out too. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 uploading pic problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 We can rebuild the turbo, 250 for vf series turbos. (best to do a stock rebuild, will perform better than a "modified" one in most cases) -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 my car.....dam you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 so i was looking up short blocks. From looking through build threads any year j257 should work? In mr.tris build 10103AC030 short block which is the same sti block from 04-07, but this block 10103AC050 has an upgraded nitrated crank that comes stock. Any thoughts on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 If you're looking for a block, Mike our tuner has a built 2.5 for sale that he did. -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsubo_G Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 cool. I can't find mikes email. so I sent your face book page a message concerning the short block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 ok ill rebuild/ upgrade the vf52 at jmp or something. Right now I've gotten the valve covers off....trying to figure out how to take out the cams to get to the head studs......IM LOST!!! A full turbo rebuild may be a good idea if you have seen flakes in the oil. Even a small speck that haven't done much damage yet may be the culprit for the next crash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 uploading pic problems Aside from the oil the heads looks good. But remove the valves and check valves and valve seats and re-do them if the seat or valve looks pitted. Also replace valve seals - and all other seals on the heads. Valve guide replacement - maybe, but it depends on amount of wear - check what the wear limits are before deciding them. And make sure that all oil channels are cleared and cleaned thoroughly due to the metal specks you found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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