300awhp

To make this thread more on topic...My question is, if your car is 300 wheel hp or above, specify how you did it, and the cost?

 

If your going to argue...show proof or back it up with logic. We are all grown ups

 

Thanks guys!

$5000-10,000

 

 

 

 

edit:

 

Rob1218 - $7000 314 hp

balrock01 - $7000+ 320 hp

^+1. You're definitely going to need a bigger turbo, with that comes a bigger intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pump housing, and the tune. exhaust is just the tip of the iceberg.

And then, when something breaks, you'll have budgeted the money to fix it.

And if you do hit 300 you'll be looking at a new clutch as well. At least you should have the funds available for one.

So lots of money woohooo!

Word of advice. Troll the forums. Lots of good deals on here. Without installation you figure:

 

Turbo - Vf52, BNR $700-$900 (used/new)

Perrin/AVO TMIC or Racer X FMIC - $500 - $700 (used/new)

Injectors DW's - $400 ish(money back with core return)

Fuel Pump - Walbro 255lhp pump < $100

Tune - Infamous1 $150 or Dyno Tune $500 ish (both can go on your AP)

Clutch - lots of choices (ACT Street HD, Clutchmasters FXx00, and so on) - $800ish

 

Skip the crank pulley. You can also skip the AP and save yourself $400-$600. One other thing. Going fast is great, being able to control the car and stop it is another. Brakes and some suspension work should also be part of your plan.

 

If you search you can pick some of the parts up used. The prices are estimates but add it up. It's not alot for 300 whp awd sedan

Short and to the point. Good info. I like it.

 

Word of advice. Troll the forums. Lots of good deals on here. Without installation you figure:

 

Turbo - Vf52, BNR $700-$900 (used/new)

Perrin/AVO TMIC or Racer X FMIC - $500 - $700 (used/new)

Injectors DW's - $400 ish(money back with core return)

Fuel Pump - Walbro 255lhp pump < $100

Tune - Infamous1 $150 or Dyno Tune $500 ish (both can go on your AP)

Clutch - lots of choices (ACT Street HD, Clutchmasters FXx00, and so on) - $800ish

 

Skip the crank pulley. You can also skip the AP and save yourself $400-$600. One other thing. Going fast is great, being able to control the car and stop it is another. Brakes and some suspension work should also be part of your plan.

 

If you search you can pick some of the parts up used. The prices are estimates but add it up. It's not alot for 300 whp awd sedan

uh, im currently at 300 whp and 347 at the flywheel.

stock turbo. didn't spend that crazy amount qouted above either.

hey "boy battin" you can def. reach your goals like i did and here's what i have done....

same mods as you but borla cat back (which shouldn't make much of a diff.) and cobb light weight crank pulley.heres what else i did to reach 300awhp.

perrin equal length headers

grimmspeed catless up

invidia catless dwn

perrin short ram intake

perrin tmic

avo throttle body hose (which just looks cool) and reall if i could do it all over again i'd pass on that cause its really not diff. from the stock hose which fits wayyy better.

one step colder brisk silver spark plugs

avo fuel pump

a great dyno tune from r/t tuning in lansdale pa ask for andy. and thats about it unless im forgetting something?

(xxr feather weight rims with yokohama advan ad08's)

and i did upgrade the clutch which is act hd with lwflyw.

lil too stiff for my taste which is why im about to throw on this spiffy new clutch masters stage 3 clutch with tsk. hopefully i can keep the flywheel tho

There are different ways to get to different versions of 300whp.

 

 

93 octane or e85? LGT or STI fitment turbo/ intercooler? Budget?

 

To do it with a bare minimum would probably be stage 2 with an intercooler,pump, injectors, e85, and a clutch. You'll be damn close to your numbers but still living in a world that's shaped like a vf40 curve.

do have a bunch of suspension upgrades and brake upgrades too. but i figured u were only interested in the go fast one's

^ I sense blasphemy.

Listen to mwiener2. There is 300whp on a budget, there is a bullet proof 300whp, there is 300whp on a dynapack and 300whp on a mustang dyno. Go talk to your tuner to see what he thinks you should do.

 

<= ~$10k here for a bullet proof 300whp set up,as much as I hate to admit how much I've spent...and actually 280/325 on a mustang dyno, 40whp/45wtq over a stage 2 LGT on the same dyno.

uh i could post my dyno chart if you "sense blasphemy"

so what is the diff. between bullet proof 300awdhp and 300awdhp on a budget?

First off, I was joking. Secondly, I agree with bnguyenbb6 because its true that you could have a setup like yours (stock turbo and clutch) and have 300 whp. I believe what you're saying and I am by no means trying to discredit you. I also think that if you do spend more money then you can actually maintain 300 whp as a DD and hold that status for a while since you have taken the precautionary measures to ensure or stongly prvent engine failure due to one of several possible causes. Yet again, sorry for any confusion rapture that I may have caused.

no problem, it did seem a lil condescending tho. it is what im at tho. my goals are actually higher im just waiting for my turbo to crap out on me and then its on to bigger turbo and fuel injectors. im looking to hit around 380 at the wheels. till my tranny craps out then prob. some ppg gears. we'll see.

i just know i spent no where near $10,000 thats crazy. i mean i brought the thing cherry with 32k on it . to add $10,000 i would just go buy an awd beamer and be done with it.

so what is the diff. between bullet proof 300awdhp and 300awdhp on a budget?

And then, when something breaks, you'll have budgeted the money to fix it.

^This.

 

I'm not saying you can't have a reliable 300whp car, I'm arguing that I have a built motor with extras and don't have to worry about blowing a ringland. Same with a used turbo, hope it doesn't fail or have a new turbo with a warranty incase it does?

 

Again, not saying that somethings don't work, I'm saying I'd rather do it right the first time.

i mean i do alot of the work on it at a very low cost with my bro at his shop but i still thin those numbers are real steep even if you pay a bunch for labor.

well from what i understand the only internals that need to be upgraded on these engines due to weakness or just from other people breaking things is getting forged pistons , connecting rods, and maybe better bearings and i guess ringlands. but thats at like way over 300 hp. i plan on doing those things but not till i need to .why not save the money and use the stock internals to their fullest? which should handle 300 fine. thats all im sayin

Cause they will be fine, right up until they're not so fine anymore. no one can tell you when that will happen

Mine lasted about a year with a VF39, ~12k miles. When a ringland(part of the piston) broke/cracked off, it crumbled and took out some valves too which equaled headwork+ valves+machine shop boring on the block because the chunk of ringland scarred the walls on the block.

 

My piston did not show signs of detonation, just cracked off.

well im almost at 60k now so im just gonna bite the bullet, that being said i am still learning and i think mwiener2 does know his shit. we'll see how it goes i'll let you know when i have any internal failures . hopefully not any time soon.

ok so yeah like i said forged piston and rods, and bearings while you in there . i mean as much as you can afford while your in there but that shouldn't come till after this level . from what i have heard the turbo should give before that.