EJ22T Head gasket replacement thread.

Hi Kids. I plucked my EJ22T out of my SS with a 4EAT today after a lot of effort. I'm sure I will be needing some help replacing the HGs and getting the engine back in the bay and all buttoned up.

 

I am going to replace the HGs, replace all the timing components, water pump, thermostat, intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil separator plate, spark plugs/wires, air filter, PCV valve, camshaft support o rings, cam seals, crank seal, oil filter, oil. If there is anything that you think I should replace while I am in there and the engine is out I'm all ears.

 

I also broke a few things and will need to replace them. These include the infamous turbo inlet elbow, a few coolant hoses, a plastic nipple thing that goes into the turbo inlet elbow, an exhaust gasket, and a little harness zip tie thingy.

 

The engine is now sitting on an engine stand. So, where should I start? I was thinking I would pull the heads off first and get a look see. There is a lot of gunk in the air intake system too. How can I clean all that out so I don't get stuff flying into my turbo when I start her up at the end?

I always start by striping the motor of everything but the heads and oil pan, then I clean it. Since you are not pulling the short block apart you will want it to be clean, so take some shop rags and fill the exhaust and intake ports on the heads and then spray a lot of degreaser on it. If you have a pressure washer than use it, if not you will have to degrease and scrub the motor a few times.

OK, I stripped her down. A nasty cam sprocket won't budge on the driver's side. I tried an impact gun with no luck, even though it got the passenger side off easily. I then wrapped a chain wrench and rags around the sprocket and had my friend crank on it while I used my long handled sprocket wrench and cranked on it until it broke. I posted a separate thread about it in the second gen forum for specific help on that.

 

Tomorrow I might just pull the head off and take it to a mechanic that has the Subaru sprocket wrench and a heavy duty impact gun. I don't know what else to do at this point.

 

Edit: I would like to re-seal the oil pan while I am at it. Any tips? I have read the FSM and it advises not to use a screwdriver to separate the pan from the engine. It recommends using a special Subie tool that looks like a big butterknife. What type of sealant should I use?

 

How should I get the plate thing off that bolts to the torque converter to get at the oil separator plate? Is permatex ultra grey the stuff to use when I bolt it back on?

 

And the water cross pipe that fits under the intake mani; there are two seals. They look fine and there was no sign of leakage, but I want to replace them anyway for my own peace of mind. It that overkill?

 

And the rear main seal. I know that is hard to seat. But I might just plop the engine in my wagon and have the dealer seat it for me. Am I just getting paranoid? If the rear main seal shows no sign of leakage, should I just fugettaboutit?

 

Annnnnd the 4EAT, anything I should replace while the engine is out?

The drivers side cam sprocket wouldn't come loose even after I torched it. I pulled the valve cover and rocker assembly off and looked for a flat spot on the camshaft to put a wrench on but there isn't one that would fit a standard wrench. On the camshaft there appears to be slight file marks that one could possibly fit a very thin wrench to gain some purchase, but not much, IMO. Since I have spare heads I tried putting my big crescent wrench on the cam to hold the camshaft steady and hit it with my impact gun for a while. I barely scratched the cam, and the bolt was stuck fast. I took the head to my mechanic buddy and we got it off in seconds flat with a more powerful impact wrench. YAY! He had never seen or heard of an EJ22T before so he was psyched to see the heads. He told me to check the valve clearances, lol. I was like "HLA's bro!"

 

Anyway, here is a pic of the right hand block, head, and a close up of the cylinder. The HGs had not completely blown yet. But you can see from the pics that is was going. Look at all that nasty gunk in the coolant passage.

 

I was relieved to see that it actually was the HG, which makes me feel that my efforts are warranted.

 

If you look in the first pic, notice that I locked the engine stand up to my wheel so no one steals it, .

As you can see in the previous post, the block was completely covered in 19 years of Subie smeg. So I stripped her down to the bare necessities and went all hippy on her and scrubbed her down with a lot of SimpleGreen. I used a wire brush, a scotch brite pad, and a tiny screwdriver to get her looking clean again.

 

I still have a bit of work to get the front and bottom end all sparkly.

 

I popped off the oil pan so I can reseal it. I am now planning on getting a rear main seal and putting the short block in my second gen wagon, hauling her down to either the stealership or my mechanic buddy, so someone with the proper tools/experience can seat it properly. Might as well!

 

What's the best way to get all that old HG material off the block?

 

I feel like I have turned the corner. From now on it will be putting components back on properly at a lesiurely, safe pace.

 

Look at that purty block!!!

 

I want to flush the block out really good before I start putting stuff back on. Can I just take a garden hose at this point and blast the shit out of her?

Damn that looks good!!!

 

To get the old gasket material off I use scotch brite pads and scrub it off. You just want the surface to be level, it will always have the impression of the gasket.

 

I would not flush the motor out, you will never get the water out and it will cause issues.

I had used purple power and a pressure washer with mine

and it looked that good, but then it got spots on it so when

I put it back in it looked like it had been sitting outside for

years. Sucked :/

Looking very nice!

I would not flush the motor out, you will never get the water out and it will cause issues.

 

I was thinking more along the lines of flushing out the coolant passages, not the oil passages. But I'll hold off on that. I took the oil pan off and I was lightly spraying the top of the block off with a hose. I left it off so if any water got in there it would dry out.

 

Can I at least wipe out the piston bores with a paper towel?

Yes you can, just make sure to oil them to prevent rusting

I went down to the subie dealership and got a bunch more gaskets/seals, etc. Just about anything that I can replace I am going to. I asked how much they would charge to seat the rear main seal and they said $47. That's not too bad considering how much I have already spent.

I removed the oil pick up, torque convertor plate, and took the shorblock to the Subie dealership I like and had them remove and replace the RMS and break loose the screws that attach the oil separator plate.

 

Next up, I'll remove the oil pump and replace the seals. Also, I got a power steering pump seal kit from the dealership. It's about $14 more than online (vs. $22 or so), but I am getting a bit crazy about rebuilding this lil' beast with OEM bits.

 

edit: When installing the HGs does it matter what side faces the heads? Can I just flip them over and it doesn't matter?

I picked up the short block from the subie dealer. Once I got it home I noticed that the seal isn't as perfectly installed as I would like. There is a little bevel that goes around the inside where the seal sits, and for the most part the seal is seated where the bevel ends. However, there is a small section of the seal that is just a hair above the bevel. I am thinking about taking it back down to the dealership and telling them to get it perfect.

 

Think I am getting too nit picky? I mean, I took it to them so they would do a perfect job, otherwise I would have just done it myself.

 

I don't have a pic of it, but I could snap one tomorrow. Should I let this bother me, because it kind of does.

The gasket should be even all the way around. If it is not take it back or just tap it in yourself.

Ok, I'm going to take it back and make them do it right. I could probably just tap it in myself, but I paid them $50 to do it because I thought that they would do a great job. I was hoping that their techs were good, but the guy who did it probably didn't give a rat's ass.

I took the oil pump off and cleaned it best as I could. Any recommendations as to the best sealant to use when I reinstall it? I have the tiny o-ring that will be installed as well. The crank seal looked brand new, but will be replaced.

 

The pump was very clean on the inside.

Use grey RTV, fujibond, hondabond etc.

I installed the oil pickup, pan (scrubbed it spotless first), pump and heads. BTW, the heads will be scrubbed down tomorrow.

 

But I pulled a rookie while torquing one of the heads on.

 

I followed the FSM and torqued the first head on perfectly. Then I flipped the block over on the stand and started on the other head. First I tightened all bolts to 22 ft lbs. Backed them off by 180, then 180 again. I tightened bolts 1 & 2 to 21 ft lbs, and I was then supposed to tighten 3 - 6 to 14 ft lbs. I made a mistake and tightened 3 - 6 to 21 ft lbs.

 

I immediately backed 3 - 6 and then tightened them to 14 ft lbs. I then tightened all bolts 80-90 degrees, and then tightened all bolts another 80-90 degrees.

 

Could I have f'ed up the head or gasket from my mistake? We are talking only 7 ft lbs here, but still. Input appreciated. Thanks.

I scrubbed the heads and valve covers clean, installed new valve cover seals and grommets, cam cap o-rings, the two tiny cam cap o rings on the passenger side, scrubbed and installed the oil thing that you pour your oil in to, the oil dip stick housing, new knock sensor, and installed the cam sprocket oil seals.

 

This whole process would go a lot quicker if I didn't clean the crap out of every part and bolt.

 

Any opinions about my previous post about messing up one of the HGs since I torqued bolts 3-6 7 ft lbs too much? I think I should be OK, because 10 ft lbs with my CDI feels like almost nothing.

I scrubbed the timing covers clean, installed the cam sprockets that sit behind them, the tensioner plate, crank oil seal, water pump, thermostat, cam sprockets, crank sprocket, and top idler pulley.

 

While installing the tensioner pulley the threads stripped before the bolt even had a chance to seat all of the way so I had to go get a thread repair kit, drill out the old threads, tap in threads for the new thread sleeve, and then install new threads. Then I was able to install the tensioner pulley and torque it to specs.

I made some more progress today and only took one step back The one step back was cracking a PCV line that runs along the fuel injector lines beneath the intake manifold.

 

I went down to Nate Wade Subaru here in Salt Lake To pick up new bolts and nuts that mount the engine to the transmission (I love these guys, they are the best. And they have free coffee, apples, bananas, soda, and give out free cookies. So I had lunch for the day. )

 

I was also able to see the new subie BRZ they had on the floor. It has about 200 HP and RWD. I popped the hood and took a good look at the 2.0L engine. It looks like it has a light body and should be a fun ride. I also found they had a 360 too! I'll get some pics when I go back on Monday to pick up a few PCV components that I broke while taking my engine apart.

 

So today I was able to install the timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys. I would recommend always getting a Gates or OEM Subaru timing belt instead of the ebay belts. It was very easy to hang, the correct thickness, and had all of the correct timing marks. I have ordered ebay timing belts and they have no marks and are are not the same thickness as OEM or Gates, which drives me nuts. The bottom idler pulley no. 2 had stripped threads so I repaired them.

 

I aligned the cam sprockets and crank sprocket perfectly. I then turned the crankshaft over a few times to make sure that all timing marks were still perfect. After one or two turns I realized that everything was not as lined up as I expected. After a brief puzzling moment, I realized that the crank sprocket makes more revolutions per cycle than the cam sprockets. After a few more turns, everything aligned perfectly again. It was at least five or six turns before all the timing marks on the sprockets lined up, not the original timing marks on the belt.

 

Then I put the timing covers back on, and torqued the knock sensor to 16 ft lbs. Next I scrubbed the water coolant crossover pipe clean, picked out the old brittle crossover pipe seals, replaced them, and installed the crossover pipe.

 

I was ready to install the intake manifold! But during removal of a U-shaped hose that connects the PCV line to the block and the intake mani I barely cracked the PCV line. So I ordered a new one. There was ONE in stock at the warehouse in Denver so I am a lucky guy.

 

In the meantime I installed the exhaust studs that join the exhaust to the bottom of the block. Three of the six head stud bolts were stripped and I repaired and installed new threads. I'm getting a lot or mileage out of this kit.

 

Should get the PCV line on Monday.

Cookies!

 

Dang...sweet dude! I want to see the pictures!

 

Good deal man. I cant wait til it's up and running again.

Sounds like you're taking a lot of care in all that you're

doing and it should run a long time

I'll pick up the PCV line tomorrow, but then I go out of town until next Sunday, so the SS will have to wait.

Looking good. The care you are taking will pay off in the end!

The rebuild is coming along nicely. Today was a good day.

 

I installed the intake manifold after cleaning all the mating surfaces, intake manifold gaskets, cleaned all the electrical connections, flushed the block coolant system as best I could with a garden hose, lol! Connected the transmission harness, coil pack harness, fuel injector harness, listened to the radio, ate an orange and an apple, scrubbed the alternator bracket, used two bolts to snug up the head exhaust bolts, installed the exhaust manifold and gaskets after cleaning the the mating surfaces, exhaust manifold heat shield, wrapped up the fuel injector harness, knock sensor, and the crank position sensor with electrical tape.

 

I replaced a couple of vacuum hoses, a new PCV line, installed an oil filter, new NGK spark plugs, installed the old spark plug wires to seal things up until I get new wires, installed the turbo exhuast gasket and bracket, and some other stuff.

 

Pics in order: Almost ready to plop back in, water cross pipe gasket replacement, nice view of water cross pipe installed, cutoff on my 2nd gen, PCV collection, new threads, beautiful timing with Gates kit, turbo exhaust bracket before new gasket install, and how to carefully crank your exhaust head studs while taking great care to not strip the threads.