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My BNR 16G install


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So on Saturday, Dave and I installed my new BNR 16G turbo. As I mentioned before we had some issues with the coolant lines not matching up and needing to make some adjustments to make everything fit good. Here are a couple pics of what I am referring to. Just by looking at the two without the tape measure, one can tell they aren't the same distance apart. Now, all we had to do was cut that small bracket holding the two halves together....buuuut....once we did that, the inlet/outlet holes matched up of course and the lines didn't exactly wrap around the turbo. They hit the casting near the compressor outlet (forgot to grab pics as we were too frustrated:spin: ) and we had to bend them a few times to get them to line up as they should....

Then when we were dropping the turbo into place on the up pipe, since the coolant lines weren't exactly in the spots they needed to have been they gave us a lot of trouble just getting it on the threaded studs. Took almost 90min to get it on the up pipe :mad:

On another note, not a big issue, just kinda lazy of BNR was they didn't install the threaded studs on the down pipe exhaust side of the turbo. They were included, but we had to put them on, which took a little bit but we got it done.

 

For one who doesn't know how to do ANY of the turbo installation yourself, it would have been nice of BNR to include a little bit of instruction/direction of what needs to be swapped from the old turbo to the new (granted, this is IF you don't get the new hardware with the new turbo). I mean, even someone who doesn't know how to put the studs on would be thrown through a loop... Like me....luckily Dave is a genius and was there to save the day of turbo installation....which because of all these setbacks took roughly 10 hours in total...don't even get me started on my own experience with my damn fuel pump swap....ugh...anyway, here are some pics of the turbos, enjoy... New vs old. VF40 vs BNR16G. yuck vs yum.

image.thumb.jpg.e5f11b3e8744f288e0370132b983ba6f.jpg

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First time doing this took me a couple days on and off to figure out all the little tricks. That return line on the bottom is always a bear. And to get the UP/turbo/inlet to line up at the same time can be tough. As far as instructions, there's actually a thread called "how to install a BNR turbo" that is very well documented.
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Anyone have a list of what little parts are needed to transfer over stock coolant lines and whatnot to a BNR turbo? Just want to make sure I have everything on hand before I get started!

 

I THINK (don't quote me on this) that TD04 water lines would work for the BNR proprietary center housing. I have a BNIB BNR 16G at home along with the IP&T oil line/filter kit but to be honest, it's only been out of the box once since I got it. I'll take a look at it tonight and see if TD04 lines will work and let you know. :)

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I had similar problems with the coolant line hookup. Decided to plug the holes on the engine side, removed the "core plugs" on the fender side then drilled and tapped those and ran my coolant lines in that side. The housing is a water jacket for the turbo so doesn't care how the water gets to it.
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I guess I'm out of the BNR loop. My old BNR16G (using the stock VF40 housing) had no problems like this at all.

 

What's the deal with his new housing? Why doesn't it mirror our fitment?

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Most of my instal was done today.

The old turbo is out (wasnt too bad actually, barely any play in the shaft), nvidia uppipe is in.

New turbo is all prepped to go in. The plumbing lines went on no problem, but i can see where there may have been a problem. I ordered my bnr with all new lines.

The job got held up by some rotted out hoses and a broken turbo inlet hose.

Few hoses cracked and the turbo inlet got torn up pretty bad. Will be finished up this week and tuned next weekend.

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Most of my instal was done today.

The old turbo is out (wasnt too bad actually, barely any play in the shaft), nvidia uppipe is in.

New turbo is all prepped to go in. The plumbing lines went on no problem, but i can see where there may have been a problem. I ordered my bnr with all new lines.

The job got held up by some rotted out hoses and a broken turbo inlet hose.

Few hoses cracked and the turbo inlet got torn up pretty bad. Will be finished up this week and tuned next weekend.

 

Does BNR offer the new lines or did you buy them elsewhere?

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Some things to note with bnr install

 

-Resurface the head of the oil return stem if you do not purchase a new one, most of them warp to the old turbo.

 

-Purchase an oem turbo-oil stem gasket, its much better, the one bnr supplies is just a paper one, oem one has a much denser material.

 

-If you reuse stock coolant lines, cutting the little metal tab that holds the 2 lines together will make your life a lot easier. You will also need to apply some pressure to "persuade" the lines to fit so you can get the 2 small bracket bolts in.

 

-Its a lot easier with 2 people, one under car one on top. You put the oil return hose on the stem and then push it onto engine oil stem. Make sure to position the bottom clips facing towards passenger side so you can actually get to them.

 

-Make sure if using ip&t filtered oil feed kit, to install on turbo so that natural pressure from line is twisting to tighten the line and banjo nut, not sure what you call the part that banjo bolt goes in to.

 

-You will need 6 copper ring washers 2 for each coolant line and 2 for oil line. One washer on top and one on the bottom.

 

-A long flat head screw driver is clutch for getting things in position such as oil hose clip, oil hose, and turbo inlet. With the turbo inlet you can slip screw driver under turbo inlet hose and with leverage use it to move it up and down.

 

-A studded up pipe really does make life easier vs replacing with nuts and bolts.

 

-Put tape over hole that goes to intercooler and the the turbo inlet to allow some man gripping and wiggling, you dont want something to fall in because you really need to get up close and personal to get it in.

 

I install on oil stem first, then turbo inlet, then get it onto uppipe, and last you bolt up downpipe

 

I had issues with the oil stem leaking, now I can remove and install turbo in under an hour....

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The 16g is great, after being cryo tuned it performs awesome. We are running 18.5lbs peak to 13lbs at redline but you'd never know it drops that much because it holds top end so well. Pulls hard and keeps going :)

 

How different is that then a Vf40?

What's the major improvement on the 16g over the vf40?

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^Moar powah.

 

IMO the biggest difference is that you actually have a power band that doesn't fall off a cliff after 5K. Sure you make more power, but not 20g power. It's the added 1.5-2K rpm's more power band that really makes the car feel totally different. Especially if you're not fuel limited.

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^Moar powah.

 

IMO the biggest difference is that you actually have a power band that doesn't fall off a cliff after 5K. Sure you make more power, but not 20g power. It's the added 1.5-2K rpm's more power band that really makes the car feel totally different. Especially if you're not fuel limited.

 

Ah ok. Cause his peak and tapper seem very similar to my vf40 but I'm guess it's tappering closer to 6k not starting at 5k

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Ah ok. Cause his peak and tapper seem very similar to my vf40 but I'm guess it's tappering closer to 6k not starting at 5k

 

One boost level on one turbo is not the same as that boost level on a different turbo. 18psi is not the same from turbo to turbo. Also, there are tons of different reasons to taper boost closer to redline.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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