RJS5689 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I was having an interesting discussion with a friend of mine who is from the very northern tip of Maine. She was arguing that everyone up there warms their car up because it is better for the vehicle. I have seen two different schools of thought though. 1. Warm the car up to operating temperature before you drive it. This will ensure the oil has thinned out and everything gets properly lubricated. It also ensures you're nice and toasty inside. 2. Start the car up and start driving it gently until it's warm. No rev-matching, no exceeding 3,000 RPM, etc. The idea being this will warm the oil up much faster than leaving the vehicle sitting. I was wondering what other LGTers do with their cars. I typically start mine and drive it very easy until it's warm. The only time I let it warm up is if I have ice frozen on the inside of my windshield or it is brutally cold (negative temperatures.) Is there any factual evidence backing one of these methods as better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedDawg Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 when i walk my dog in the morning i'll turn the car on, it idles for 5-10min before i'm back out and on my way to work. Seems to heat up a lot better than jumping in it cold and taking off, it feels like all the fluids are sluggish and thicker on cold starts like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedDawg Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 ^ only during winter months, summer it feels fine just jumping in and going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I let mine run for 30-60 seconds before I start driving it. I start out gently until the needle gets past the 1/4 mark, then I just drive normally. But I NEVER beat the car unless it fully warmed up. If you start the car and let it idle until it's fully warmed, all you're doing is warming the engine oil and coolant. The transmission and differential fluids are still cold... Edit: Where I live it rarely gets below freezing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boymk123 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 5mins in winter, 2mins in summer, avoid exceed 3000 RPM before it reach normal operating temp.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 You don't need to let a newer car warm up. That's common knowledge. If it's real cold, sub zero or the windows are frosty I'll start it, scrape the frost and drive it. The other week, -6F no frost, start it, turn on the seat heater, let it roll down the driveway and then put it into gear and drive it. Sometimes I'll let it run for a couple of minutes before I drive it when it's that kind of cold. It all depends on how I feel that day. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AShoe Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I just drive gently until it warms up. Doesn't matter if it's -10 or 100 out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I wish they had a shift knob heater for the MOMO unit. That thing gets COLD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madjik_Man Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I only let it warm up if it's buttfreezingcold outside. Usually only for a few mintues, then I drive 'er reeeeeal easy for at least 5 miles or so. If it's not that cold out, I start it, let the rpms come down a little bit, roll it out of the driveway and drive 'er real easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ak17072001 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I let every car warm up in winter, and there's a reason . At -40, even plugged in the car's going to be cooold driving it away immediately, most likely your glass will fog up in traffic and if your temp gauge is stuck way below cold and your car sounds like metal grinding on metal can't be good for it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chutrain Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 The whole idea of letting a car warm up was more for the carburetor engines. The new engines do not need to sit idle to warm up. Just take is easy on the motor the first few minutes and she'll be fine. The car is obviously warms up much quicker and you're not wasting gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 16, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 16, 2011 In our piston slap prone engines, idling them for a length of time isn't good. This can also lead to gas and exhaust gases being absorbed by the engine oil. Also, there is transmission fluid, differential fluid, and tires that need to be warmed up as well. Just get it in it and go. The car will warm up way quicker under load anyways and it is much healthier for it. Just get a block heater and if you can't stand the cold, move south. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 16, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 16, 2011 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/do-you-all-warm-up-your-cars-fastesti-9074.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/warming-up-subii-132129.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/do-you-warm-up-engine-everydayi-4611.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/long-do-you-let-your-subbie-warm-up-winteri-81409.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/warming-up-gt-26630.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4Legacy Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 If I do let it warm up, it's because I'm concerned about my own well being, not my car's When it is FREEZING out I'll warm it while I shovel snow, just so I can sit in a nice warm car once done. Occaisionally if it is EXTREMELY hot out (100+) I'll let it run a couple minutes to circulate some cool air. But as mentioned, I feel driving conservatively until to operating temp is the best way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 In our piston slap prone engines, idling them for a length of time isn't good. This can also lead to gas and exhaust gases being absorbed by the engine oil. Also, there is transmission fluid, differential fluid, and tires that need to be warmed up as well. Just get it in it and go. The car will warm up way quicker under load anyways and it is much healthier for it. Just get a block heater and if you can't stand the cold, move south. This, from a guy in VA, whats he know about cold... LOL 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boymk123 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 if i do let it warm up, it's because i'm concerned about my own well being, not my car's . +++1 ^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Instanced Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I get in and go slow... heat seats FTW though for sure! I don't go anywhere near 4k until it's warmed up to operating temperature. usually the car is warm by the time i hit the highway, at that point i'm cruising in 6th the whole time. not much stress/strain there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 If my car has been sitting out all night in freezing weather, I always let it warm up for at least five to ten minutes. It doesn't make sense to drive it when the engine oil isn't up to operating temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 16, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 16, 2011 That's the point of driving it, is to warm up the engine oil under load. What about the transmission? And the brakes? And the tires? And the differentials? Engine oils have a cold and hot operating temperature, because running engines experience both extremes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 That's the point of driving it, is to warm up the engine oil under load. What about the transmission? And the brakes? And the tires? And the differentials? Engine oils have a cold and hot operating temperature, because running engines experience both extremes. Engine oil that is heated to normal operating temps will lubericate better than cold oil in a car that has sat out all night in freezing temps. It's not rocket science, but to each their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 Engine oil that is heated to normal operating temps will lubericate better than cold oil in a car that has sat out all night in freezing temps. It's not rocket science, but to each their own. Oil is very thick when it's cold, so it's not even doing its job properly if it's too thick. There's always a flip side.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 16, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 16, 2011 Actually that statement is incorrect. It's called Multi-Viscosity or Multi-grade oils. You should look into it. The oil flows more efficiently at operating temperature. Your engine will be adequately "lubericated" at any temperature. So do you stand by your method because you think its what you should do or is it because it is a scientifically proven method? And once again, motor oil isn't the only fluid in the car that needs warming. EDIT: Oil has polar additives causing it to cling to engine parts after shut down. Cold oil lubricates better as it is more viscous and provides a thicker film between moving parts. On the other hand it doesn't flow as well (which is a very relative statement) as hot oil which on the same hand doesn't lubricate as well because it is thinner due to its lower viscosity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I just drive gently until it warms up. Doesn't matter if it's -10 or 100 out. This. I keep it under 2500-3000 until I'm at full temp, and never into boost unless it's an emergency (which hasn't happened, thankfully). [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I don't usually let it idle any longer than it takes to set my lights, check my mirrors and find a playlist on my phone to listen to. But I do notice when I let it warm up 3-5 min it seems to drive better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 That's the point of driving it, is to warm up the engine oil under load. What about the transmission? And the brakes? And the tires? And the differentials? Engine oils have a cold and hot operating temperature, because running engines experience both extremes. Actually that statement is incorrect. It's called Multi-Viscosity or Multi-grade oils. You should look into it. The oil flows more efficiently at operating temperature. Your engine will be adequately "lubericated" at any temperature. So do you stand by your method because you think its what you should do or is it because it is a scientifically proven method? And once again, motor oil isn't the only fluid in the car that needs warming. EDIT: Oil has polar additives causing it to cling to engine parts after shut down. Cold oil lubricates better as it is more viscous and provides a thicker film between moving parts. On the other hand it doesn't flow as well (which is a very relative statement) as hot oil which on the same hand doesn't lubricate as well because it is thinner due to its lower viscosity. Like I stated in my earlier post "to each their own". It's your car do whatever you want with it. Although I'm not the one rebuilding my engine at the moment, am I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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