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How Hot does your 2.2 run?


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So, I have this '97 Brighton that I picked up with an owner diagnosed blown head gasket. Turns out the overheating problem started after the radiator hoses were replaced. I figured it was air in the system, turns out it was. I've been driving it around town for a month now without issue, so I figured it was time or a longer drive. Got about 40 miles out of own and stopped only to find a trail of antifreeze following my car. Bottom hose was fairly cool, top hose was hot and firm. But it wasn't hot according to the gauge(which I know works, I've seen it go above half when I first bought it and while I was "burping" it).

 

Anyhow, long story short, we replaced the thermostat with one from O'Reilly auto parts, bleed it out and drove back home. Stopped and checked it three times, both Hoses were now the same temp, and no more leaking fluid from the overflow tank.

 

So my question is this, how hot does your engine run/where is the guage? And how firm do your radiator hoses get during operation?

 

Here's a picture of my gauge, this is were it normally runs. And both my hoses are practically un squeezable.

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj605/Idahorec/97%20Legacy%20Wagon/BB14C5A0-3D86-4953-81BF-A11A0A817866-653-000000484D7B5D98_zpsf4c47d28.jpg

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Hello;

Yes this looks to be correct. Subaru's have a reverse cooling system, coolant feeds from the top of the radiator and returns at the bottom. The pressure in the system should be 12psi, so the hoses should be firm. I would also check the cap and make sure this is up to snuff. The rubber should be crack free. Just a few thoughts, Steven.

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Thanks everyone. I was 90% sure when I bought it that it wouldn't end up being a head gasket problem being it was a 2.2. Then when I burped it and got about a half a gallon more antifreeze in it and it stopped heating up, I felt pretty good about that diagnosis. Then having to do out of town, in the parking lot of the auto parts store, auto repair, little thoughts and doubts start creeping in................

 

I also know that non oem thermostats have a reputation, not in a good way, around the forums. But there were no suby dealers where I was, so I had to make due. I will probably order one, and a cap, from the dealer just to have just in case!

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yes, order a subaru t-stat.

 

do a search for ''how to fill and burp your cooling system'' and read up.

(or the major words at least.)

doing it correctly is important.

 

sniff and examine the over flow bottle.

does it smell like exhaust gases or carbon monoxide?

 

when the cooling system gets low on coolant, for whatever reason,

the coolant stops circulating.

when this happens the upper hose gets pressurized and hot, and the lower hose is cooler.

a lot cooler.

 

not enough coolant in the system can be caused by leaks,

head gasket issues, bad cap, or improper filling.

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Your temp gauge is exactly where mine is - never ticks above that spot :)

 

my 95 2.2 sits damn near exactly where yours is in the pic.

 

Same here, but I have the 2.5

 

my 96 2.5 sits below that, barely touching the bottom bacon picture.

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my 95 2.2 sits damn near exactly where yours is in the pic.

 

 

 

my 96 2.5 sits below that, barely touching the bottom bacon picture.

 

lol "bacon picture", I'm going to start using that term when referring to the temp guage; "what's the bacon temp?".

The only reason I look at other peoples cars is so I can see my Subie in the reflection - Carver Snell

Check out 2nd Gen Legacy Enthusiast & Resource Directory

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sniff and examine the over flow bottle.

does it smell like exhaust gases or carbon monoxide?

 

 

Well, johnegg, I sniffed the overflow tank, and it does smell like exhaust. And the last couple mornings it smells like coolant when I first fire it up. I was hoping to make it through winter then do the timing belt kit in the spring. Now it looks like I will be ordering a timing kit and head gaskets to get this done before winter kicks in.

 

:spin:

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the true and final test for bad internal head gasket leak is bubbles in the over flow when it heats up.

 

the head gaskets on this engine are easy.

you can do them in the car.

you don't even have to remove the valve covers.

remove some stuff so you have room to work.

remove 6 head bolts,

clean the head,

clean the block,

install new gasket,

install 6 head bolts.

torque to spec.

 

no need to buy head bolts unless yours are crappy or corroded.

i would buy suabru head gaskets from an online dealer for about $35 each.

i would also get the cam and crank seals there, as well as the oil pump o-ring and water pump gasket ~$30.

 

if you have an oil leak on the rear of the engine,

i would pull the engine, and replace the oil separator plate ~$35. (online dealer)

 

and timing belt, idlers and water pump from '' theimportexperts'' on ebay ~$135.

 

add in felpro intake and exhaust gaskets and you are good to go.

 

good luck.

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I didn't see any complete kits from theimportexperts for my model except for a master kit for $340.

 

for 90 - 97 ej22s i get the belt, all idlers including the one for the tensioner, and the water pump, for $125 plus shipping, ~$135 total.

(save and re-use the bolts from your existing stuff.)

if you do not see that kit listed, call them and tell them what you want, they will put it together for you.

 

they have a retail store somewhere, so phone business is ok.

 

i get my seals from subaru.

either an online dealer or wholesale from the local dealer.

most parts counter mgr will match the online price if you tell them you will buy the parts from him if he can match the price.

1 crank

2 cam

2 cam cap o-rings

1 oil pump o-ring

1 water pump gasket.

 

the WP gasket is metal and way better than the paper one that comes with the kit.

but i here no gasket is required, if you use a high quality anaerobic or RTV type sealant.

 

after all, the oil pump and the oil pan, and the three sections of the trans-axle do not use gaskets.

 

of course there is no old gasket clean up required when replacing the WP if you use the subaru gasket.

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That's what I did with my '88 Nissan- I have the 'E' model that I have didn't have the tachometer or clock that the XE model did, so I pulled an XE cluster and put it right in (the tach wiring was there) so it worked like a charm. I like having the clock right there by the speedo/ tach too.
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lol "bacon picture", I'm going to start using that term when referring to the temp guage; "what's the bacon temp?".

 

 

i actually started calling it the first bacon because of my kids, when working on the cooling system of my old civic id ask one for help with where the gauge was, thats what they would tell me. both subarus have the same bacon pic, so it has carried over. been calling it that ever since.

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i actually started calling it the first bacon because of my kids, when working on the cooling system of my old civic id ask one for help with where the gauge was, thats what they would tell me. both subarus have the same bacon pic, so it has carried over. been calling it that ever since.

 

That's awesome...

The only reason I look at other peoples cars is so I can see my Subie in the reflection - Carver Snell

Check out 2nd Gen Legacy Enthusiast & Resource Directory

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  • 1 month later...
185 degrees Fahrenheit (22e w/25d heads). Normal EJ22s & EJ25s should run between 175-190 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

 

That's correct, I run torque with my car and I have the alarm set for 210F that's about the time the temp gauge starts to move upwards.

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Hey johnegg, What's the general feeling on the other sellers on eBay, domesticgaskets, and mizumoauto? I didn't see any complete kits from theimportexperts for my model except for a master kit for $340.

 

I have a mizumoauto kit on my wifes car. No issues. I've also put them on a few other cars I've done for other people. No complaints, just splurge for the kit with the nicer water pump.

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