NavigatorsLegacy Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Are they all created the same... I want to get my own. I think if I am changing and rotating tires it would be advisable to have. Which one should I get and why? Any luck with any of these or should I just spend the extra and get Craftsman because it's the ALL AMERICAN tool for everything and spend....$126.00? Here are some listed on AMAZON I found...I'm not a mechanic so...any technical advice would be welcome... They range in price from $23- $65 1)Neiko 3/8-Inch 10-80 Foot-Pounds Automatic Torque Wrench 2)Pittsburgh Professional 1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench 20-150lbs 3)Gorilla Automotive TW605 Torque Wrench 4)TEKTON 2445 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 25-250 Ft./Lb. 5)Mountain 16250 1/2-inch Drive Torque Wrench - 25-250 ft/lbs Your advice is appreciated as I start to build my own "garage." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Ned Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Look for something either electronic or clicky in the 10-150 ft/lb range. Some of the suspension stuff (top hats to strut towers) needs the low torque figures and any bolt that needs more than 150 ft/lb can be cranked on with a breaker bar after the wrench tops out. Honestly, you'll find that the wrench spends most of its time set to the lug nut torque spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Go to Sears. I have 3 craftsman torque wrenches. Good value. I'm not a big fan of the cheaper ebay stuff out there. Not that I torque everything. I want to know I can trust what I do torque. I'm responsible for a big list of Snap-On trque wrenches here at work. I have brought my Sears ones in from time to time to be calibrated. They seem to hold there cal well for what they are. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 for after you buy it... make sure you dial the setting back down to about 15% of max value before putting back in its case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charged Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Good advice so far. I have a Craftsman clicker style. I'd recommend them, but I just looked at the Sears website and the reviews are pretty mixed on the current model. I'd go 1/2" drive and 150 ft-lbs should be plenty. There aren't many automotive situations where you'd need more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I got a clicking type at Harbor Freight for around $15. Comes with a hard shell case, lifetime warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadTrainDriver Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Gearwrench 85071 25-250ft. lbs. As good as you can get, without spending twice as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I got the gorilla to wrench. After using it about 25 times I checked it on a torque tester at low and high torques and it was still calibrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 The brand of wrench is not so important. Neither is the actual torque spec itself. The reason for using a torque wrench is to make several fasteners achieve the same tension or tightness. Any of the wrenches will work OK if you take care of them, don't drop them, release the tension on them when storing them, and simply use it exactly the same way every time. Consistency is what torque wrenches are for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 ^ slightly false brand does matter. Not all torque wrenches are created equal. Even with-in the snap on brand they have varied quality of specs. The electronic ones tend to be more accurate. The click type can vary any where from 6-10° from the read value. Usually a good electronic snap on torgue wrench will read 1-3° of the read value. On a second note though. I doubt you are planning on any heavy race builds that require precise torqueing of internal engine nuts and bolts. So don't buy a snap on. Just buy a craftsman. Or any decent electronic wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 The brand of wrench is not so important. Neither is the actual torque spec itself. The reason for using a torque wrench is to make several fasteners achieve the same tension or tightness. Any of the wrenches will work OK if you take care of them, don't drop them, release the tension on them when storing them, and simply use it exactly the same way every time. Consistency is what torque wrenches are for. So the torque value doesnt matter .. let me evenly torque my lug nuts to 15ftlbs and see how my car does on the highway for a long period of time ... im just yanking your chain, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 So the torque value doesnt matter .. let me evenly torque my lug nuts to 15ftlbs and see how my car does on the highway for a long period of time ... im just yanking your chain, lol The numbers matter but the reason that they're there is to make sure that they are all the same. Obviously if something has a 75 ft.lb. torque spec, you can't bring them down to 20 ft.lb. and have it work as expected nor could you take them to 140 ft.lb. either. But if they are at 72 or 78 ft.lb. they will work fine as long as they are all the same. The key is consistency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 The key is also re-calibrating or testing it 1x a year to ensure you aren't under or over torquing things. -Mike Paisan AZP's First Private Track Event, June 19 at NJMP Thunderbolt $315 including Classroom and Mentor! http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Torque values are typically for clean, unlubricated fasteners. If the threads are oiled, or if they're seriously corroded, you will NOT get an accurate amount of torque on the fasteners. This is very common with lug nuts or lug bolts used for wheels & tires. The comment on periodic recalibration is an excellent one.... TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K2e2vin Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 For just wheels, just go for the Pittsburgh from HF. They're not very accurate or consistent(I wouldn't use them for anything that's around the min/max) compared to higher end brands(we have a machine at work used to test/calibrate the tools). When it needs to be recalibrated, just take it back and exchange it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 How about one of these? http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3954084&postcount=1 I'm thinking about picking one up for a friend who owns' a transmission shop. Added bonus is that a year later, it looks like the discount code they mentioned still works for us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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