The EJ25 is like the 7mgte of Subaru motors?

If you don't get the joke sorry, 7mgte is the 3.0 liter turbo motor from the 86 to 92 toyota supra. It was plagued with issues from the factory. BHG's and Rodknock is very common.

 

Anyway enough with the history. I have the " phase 2" Ej22 in my postal. That's a good thing right?

The motor and trans have 202k on them and this is what the inside looks likehttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/a5eha8us.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/8e7atuty.jpg

 

Every thing has been drained and changed.

Filters changed

Coolant flushed

New plugs, wires , and coil pack.

All the typical things down.

 

Belts and t belt show no ware. Just looking for typical issues. I have said MKIII and have destroyed two 7m's before I learned to do it first and do it right. Thanks guys

 

Is there any other factory mistakes that I should address before I take the car into the mountains and snow ?

Well, the EJ25's are prone to head gasket failure. If you have the factory gasket still on there, it's pretty much a matter of "when" and not "if" it's going to fail.

 

The EJ22 is solid but under powered. With an engine that old anything can happen tho.

Whats with all the 2.5 hate lately? once the timing belt and head gasket are done they're just as reliable as the 2.2 with a lot more power, which is always a good thing when you figure it has to power an all time awd and still tote around 3200 pounds.

I don't hate the 2.5, like you said with a new HG they are good to go. They have OK power, even by modern standards.

 

One of my other cars is a 1997 Outback and it has the DOHC 2.5, probably the most "unreliable" of the Subie engines. It had it's HG done at 175,000 miles (now has 210,000) and is solid other than the stupid cam seals leaking some oil.

Looks like you have a phase 2 ej22 or the ej222 Not as reliable as the other older 2.2s but still has an OK reputation. I think they had them in 99 only maybe in 1998.

 

Mine makes tons of motor noise while running like its coming apart and it burns a fair deal of oil but at about 200k it still is going. I hope.

 

IMO... yours looks well maintained and that's a big bonus in the Subaru world makes for a cheaper car that isn't a giant fail train like mine.

Is there a special head gasket to use on the ej25 when replacing it?

are the ej20 prone to the same issue?

Cometic will make a custom headgasket for you..I looked in to getting the superthin mls gaskets but I'm in need of a whole gasket kit so I opted for a oem engine gasket kit from subaruparts online for $250.

Well I am well versed in BHG's and repairing them . I am glad I don't have to deal with this on the 2.2 . I eventually went JZ in my Supra because I hated having to do a bunch of work to make a motor as reliable as it's equally available counterpart. It appears to be the case with the 2.5 here... The it's a great motor once you do this, that ,and the other....argument is pointless. Having to spend a few hundred to make a motor reliable to keep .3 liters is retarded. Same argument with the 3.0 7m and the 2.5 1jz. My 2.5 has destroyed many a larger displacement motor.

Whats with all the 2.5 hate lately? once the timing belt and head gasket are done they're just as reliable as the 2.2 with a lot more power, which is always a good thing when you figure it has to power an all time awd and still tote around 3200 pounds.

 

I was wondering this too when I saw the thread. It's not like this is a new revelation....the 25D had shit HG from factory. Its only an issue b/c it has a subaru badge on the front of the car, as I've seen countless cadillacs and domestics that blew HG constantly from the same years the 2nd gen was around. Besides comparing a turbo engine to N/A from separate manuf. seems kind of like apples and oranges. As always just my .02$

Sounds like maybe you should lick your wounds or dump your problem guy...

 

every motor from every manufacturer has its hitches for example: 7mgte had its short run, 1jz had a shorter run and was re-engineered to the 2jz which is great but there is a reason why they stopped manufacturing it. I can only guess why it was discontinued 4 years after the 1jz refresh..heavy, prehistoric and deemed inefficient until you build it for 1000 hp.

1jz had a shorter run?? Recheck your facts. 2jz had a much shorter run compared to the 1jz

 

Not meaning to piss off the 2.5 guys. Should have know better to post a post like this.

I don't think anybody is pissed, I don't know much about the 1jz forgot they used it in Japan until 03 er something. The point I was trying to make is that manufacturing techniques get better when there is something to fix, and every manufacturer has them.

Not meaning to piss off the 2.5 guys. Should have know better to post a post like this.

 

I don't think we were acting butt hurt about the thread...Personally speaking, I just thought it'd be more appropriate to compare the 25d to something like the yoda 2tz. Which is uber underpowered in comparison and runs into issues of it's own.....No matter what, at the end of the day, any engine from 15ish+ years ago will need something to be reliable. Just so happens some things are more of a PITA than others.

Whats with all the 2.5 hate lately? once the timing belt and head gasket are done they're just as reliable as the 2.2 with a lot more power, which is always a good thing when you figure it has to power an all time awd and still tote around 3200 pounds.

The 2.2 isn't perfect, it's common for oil to leak around the crank seal. Mine has always done it despite being on it's fourth seal. They seem to be ok for about 20.000, then slowly oil starts to seep through again. I don't know anyone that has the 2.2 motor that hasn't had this annoying little problem.

Every type of car has it's quirks, and even cars known for reliability have had their issues (but still they are great cars)! Take the Honda Accord automatic transmission thing. My son's 2001 Accord is on it's 2nd transmission. Everything else about the car is great- just hoping the transmission lasts until he's done with college!

Would that be a Front or rear main seal then?

Would that be a Front or rear main seal then?

Front. The rear seal seems to be fine.

There is something wrong if you had to replace that seal so many times, were you installing it with the oil pump on the car?..the main seals on these cars are very good, I have only replaced one once in any of my cars. My 1990 has a bad one but that was due to 298k and crank had .0015 of an inch too much end play..

There is something wrong if you had to replace that seal so many times, were you installing it with the oil pump on the car?..the main seals on these cars are very good, I have only replaced one once in any of my cars. My 1990 has a bad one but that was due to 298k and crank had .0015 of an inch too much end play..

I have recently been told that I am not doing enough when replacing the seal. As well as replacing the seal the oil pump needs to come off. A new o ring needs to be put in and the oil pump needs to be turned over and the round plate held on by six screws needs to be tightened as they are known to come loose. Plus the main seal needs to have greese put in behind it as an extra measure to prevent leaking, then the oil pump needs to be reinstalled on the motor with new sealer.

It seems that there is a lot to do when replacing the front crank oil seal.

Owning a car and doing your own work isn't easy. There are quite a few steps but when followed correctly there won't be a problem

The reality of the 1st Phase 25D is as follows.

 

The EJ25D is only meant to satisfy a need for TQ, so Subaru took an engine design & did to it what wasn't meant to be done, overbore/oversquare the shit out of it.

 

They then fitted that engine with low-quality rod bearings, small rods, & crappy head gaskets. Welcome to the recipe of extreme failure.

 

If the head gasket is blown, & you do NOT run the engine to the point of overheating, then you will likely have saved it. If it does overheat x3+, you are on borrowed time.

 

Coolant mixes with oil & creates a very acidic compound that destroys the bearings along with the heat, & bad things happen, like rods through blocks.

 

In fact, the ONLY good thing about the 25D, really, is it's heads. I can live without the -.3 displacement & the 20bhp loss because all I have to do to get that 10-11bhp back is swap 25D heads onto an EJ22 & keep rocking on.

 

Yes, the EJ22 leaks oil. So does my 97 Grand Am GT, which is about as bulletproof as my DOHC EJ22. The EJ22 is a more reliable engine because it is designed within it's operating limits. You have to practically force one to blow up as opposed to the EJ25D ticking time bomb.

 

If you want your EJ25D to be truly reliable, either swap in a 99 25D shortblock (has tougher Phase 2 block & internals) or swap in an EJ251/3 block. The Phase 2 EJ25 blocks are much stronger & much more reliable (almost as much as the EJ22).

The reality of the 1st Phase 25D is as follows.

 

The EJ25D is only meant to satisfy a need for TQ, so Subaru took an engine design & did to it what wasn't meant to be done, overbore/oversquare the shit out of it.

 

They then fitted that engine with low-quality rod bearings, small rods, & crappy head gaskets. Welcome to the recipe of extreme failure.

 

If the head gasket is blown, & you do NOT run the engine to the point of overheating, then you will likely have saved it. If it does overheat x3+, you are on borrowed time.

 

Coolant mixes with oil & creates a very acidic compound that destroys the bearings along with the heat, & bad things happen, like rods through blocks.

 

In fact, the ONLY good thing about the 25D, really, is it's heads. I can live without the -.3 displacement & the 20bhp loss because all I have to do to get that 10-11bhp back is swap 25D heads onto an EJ22 & keep rocking on.

 

Yes, the EJ22 leaks oil. So does my 97 Grand Am GT, which is about as bulletproof as my DOHC EJ22. The EJ22 is a more reliable engine because it is designed within it's operating limits. You have to practically force one to blow up as opposed to the EJ25D ticking time bomb.

 

If you want your EJ25D to be truly reliable, either swap in a 99 25D shortblock (has tougher Phase 2 block & internals) or swap in an EJ251/3 block. The Phase 2 EJ25 blocks are much stronger & much more reliable (almost as much as the EJ22).

It makes me laugh these days when we talk about oil leaks. We really moan about nothing when we see the smallest drip. These Japers leak nothing compared to the old Chevs and Fords. I can remember all my old cars leaking from every nuke and cranny. The engine, trans and diff, it pissed out, and back then it was regarded as nornal. I suppose these days car engines are machined so much better that we expect perfection. I guess I can live with a small drip. I wonder what we will learn to fix when electric cars start rolling off the production lines ?

Had a 85' Supra with the 5MGE-MT motor. Wiped out the cams at 60k.

 

The EJ25 is fine. If you ever saw what mine has endured you'd say it was as good as a 4G63. Plus the 2.5's make TORQUE!!!

It makes me laugh these days when we talk about oil leaks. We really moan about nothing when we see the smallest drip. These Japers leak nothing compared to the old Chevs and Fords.

 

Completely agree. It's always the same thing when I read pages and pages of tire complaints. Compared to the old nylon bias plies today's cheapest tires are like F1 tires.

Had a 85' Supra with the 5MGE-MT motor. Wiped out the cams at 60k.

 

The EJ25 is fine. If you ever saw what mine has endured you'd say it was as good as a 4G63. Plus the 2.5's make TORQUE!!!

 

i inherited my moms 85 celica gt-s with the 22r-e in it, loved that car. by the time i got it, my brother had ruined the car, it had well over 250k on it. i drove it for about a month before the HG went on it. at the time i had two trucks, impala, cadillac, an intrepid and my motorcycle in the driveway, so i let my wife at the time donate it to the heart assoc.. kind of wish i still had that car now.