mineENGR Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Ive been using Shell's Rotella T 5w40 since it came on sale for 23$ for 4L jugs, never had it analyzed but i did notice less burn-off compared to Motomaster Formula1 5w30 syn in my '97 w/ej22t. Not sure how it'll do in the LGT but so far so good at 1500km, all my OCI's are at 10,000km (~6000 miles) with plenty of dusty dirt road commutes. Will be stocking up again when it comes on sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubsac2 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 You guy do realize that Mobile 1 is a wax crack oil, not a true synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubsac2 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 sorry for my noob question, have anyone ever try the redline 5w30 yet? I did some searches on google and found some good results, but what's up with the polyol ester base stock? Is it worth it? 9.95/quart? if I only run 3500 OCI? I'm only learning so ... Yes I use that in my SVT Contour and love it. My wife doesn't like it, because it allows her LGT to spool up and the engine to rev so quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcmusa Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 Just do an oil analysys I did at 7K miles on syn report shows there was more like in the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 Just do an oil analysys I did at 7K miles on syn report shows there was more like in the oil. Can you care to explain better what you mean? Something seems to have left the context. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted September 6, 2010 Mega Users Share Posted September 6, 2010 Yes I use that in my SVT Contour and love it. My wife doesn't like it, because it allows her LGT to spool up and the engine to rev so quickly. I heard that just upgrading the engine oil in a stock legacy will beat the pants off a "stage 2" legacy any day. Suckers And to the above post, you know, it just has more like in it, like, you know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnnyc192 Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 5-30 Castrol Edge with a K and N or a Mobile 1, like the commercial says, think with your dipstick! (and check it often, is shound not burn any oil ove 300, over 5k it might eat .25 qt, simply add to it as needed. Mine Runs GREAT, the dealer kepps begging me for mine... alas, the daughter is taking it to college in 10 years. it should have 125 k on it then. ALSO switch over to all Redline or Miblie 1 full syn. product ASAP! That helps, you will feel the difference, you can coast better. Plus it seems to rev faster, that just might be me though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I put 5-30 Castrol Syntec last week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owenmaxx Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 what do you guys think Rottela the regular one [white bottle] or semi synthetic or blue bottle full synthetic??? I know my other choice is german castrol which i have been using on my previous car for 2 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 I put 5-30 Castrol Syntec last week I've been using Castrol 5-30 SynBlend. I seems like it c(w)ould be the best of both worlds, and despite the additional cost, I change my oil between 3-3.5kmi, and sometimes sooner when it looks darker. For example, I just changed it after data logging for stage 2 tuning; seemed like a good idea after the logging "abuse". Maybe I just like feeling like I'm keeping the engine (and turbo) clean......that and using my Fumoto valve!!! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ObiWanToby Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I've been using Castrol 5-30 SynBlend. I seems like it c(w)ould be the best of both worlds, and despite the additional cost, I change my oil between 3-3.5kmi, and sometimes sooner when it looks darker. For example, I just changed it after data logging for stage 2 tuning; seemed like a good idea after the logging "abuse". Maybe I just like feeling like I'm keeping the engine (and turbo) clean......that and using my Fumoto valve!!! :) Though color has nothing to do with how the oil performs, it seems the last two times I have changed my oil (at 3750 OCI), my oil has been golden clear, like a darker honey. Almost feels like a waste. If a proper large capacity fuel filter could be installed, the OCI should go to at least 5000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_808 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 IMO, only true for extremely cold climates. A PAO based oil will require less pour point depressants. So what group does the Subaru brand synthetic fall in? That is what I just went too at this last oil change 7500 miles.. I would much rather spend more for better oil. LUV :web: my LGT…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Though color has nothing to do with how the oil performs, it seems the last two times I have changed my oil (at 3750 OCI), my oil has been golden clear, like a darker honey. Almost feels like a waste. If a proper large capacity fuel filter could be installed, the OCI should go to at least 5000. Click here > http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html My OCI is 15k, original motor & turbo still at over147k. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Oil filters takes care of particles while the oil breaks down and takes care of chemical contaminants. So just changing the filter doesn't help. But the OCI is often on the safe side from the manufacturer to avoid problems where customers pushes the limit of oci and hard driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05silvergt4me Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 So would the new Mobil1 0w-30 (gas saving) not be a good choice for the LGT in Wi.? Too thin? Its says on the bottle can be used in place of 5w30 and 10w30...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 No problem using that one. It's the value to the right (30 in your case) that tells you how thick the oil is when it's warm. The 0 or 5 is how thick it is when it's cold. So a 0 has better cold start properties than a 5 but isn't making any difference when the engine is warm. And even a 0W40 can be used, it's a tad thicker when it's warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05silvergt4me Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Good to know, thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gil_ong Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 i buy whatever's on sale at advance auto; castrol edge, castrol syntec, valvoline synpower. have heard good things about rotella and am thinking of trying it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnod85 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 anyone try royal purple 5w30? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggerheist Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 im running redline 5w-30 ive been told its one of the best out there... anyone else use/d it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luchin Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I'm getting a headache. I am anal when it comes to oil changes. I change my oil every 4000 Kilometres/2500 miles or three months, which ever comes first. The three month OCI usually covers me for the seasonal change in weather. Maybe it's a little extreme but changing the oil is one of the best things you can do for your car. ESPECIALLY if it has a turbo. As far as name brand goes, I have NO idea who makes the claimed best. I've heard great things about RedLine and Royal Purple. A far as all the 'run of the mill' oils go like Castrol, Pennzoil etc; my head is as far up my ass as it possibly can be when it comes to my knowledge on brand names. So this is where I can use some help. Boxer engines use more oil then conventional engines so one of the questions should be which oil does this car 'eat' the least amount of? And with OCI of 4000 Kilometres/2500 miles, it's probably not a concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Here's a forum that will make your head spin: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) Here's a forum that will make your head spin: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ See second post in this thread too... I'm getting a headache. I am anal when it comes to oil changes. I change my oil every 4000 Kilometres/2500 miles or three months, which ever comes first. The three month OCI usually covers me for the seasonal change in weather. Maybe it's a little extreme but changing the oil is one of the best things you can do for your car. ESPECIALLY if it has a turbo. As far as name brand goes, I have NO idea who makes the claimed best. I've heard great things about RedLine and Royal Purple. A far as all the 'run of the mill' oils go like Castrol, Pennzoil etc; my head is as far up my ass as it possibly can be when it comes to my knowledge on brand names. So this is where I can use some help. Boxer engines use more oil then conventional engines so one of the questions should be which oil does this car 'eat' the least amount of? And with OCI of 4000 Kilometres/2500 miles, it's probably not a concern. The oil consumption varies from engine to engine and in most cases the consumption is low. Just take your pick of a well-known brand with the right viscosity and API rating. For most cases I think that the oil consumption very much depends on how the gap of the oil rings on the pistons happens to be located. Horizontally mounted pistons means that gravity isn't helping to keep out excess oil from the cylinders. But on the NA engines I have had the oil consumption has been low enough to not be noticeable. Edited December 6, 2010 by ehsnils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I'll update my tail. I'm at 137,700 miles, I have always used what ever conventional oil is on sale with mainly Fram filters. I top off the oil usage every few day's as needed. I think I'm arouind a Qt every 1000 miles or so. I found at the last oil change, I used Castrol 5-30, from Rotella 15-40, I went almost 800 miles before I had to add oil. I drive to VT every weekend now. A couple weeks back, didn't use any oil up and back (68-72mph), the next week drove most of the way 75+ mph, used about 2/3 qt. One way is about 140 miles. Car runs great. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myevodream Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Just did my first oil change on the LGT I picked up a few weeks ago, used Rotella after reading all the stuff on the forum. I also just used a subaru filter, although it was interesting that the last oil change was done at a dealer and there was a NAPA filter on there....Also, whatever dealer the PO went too.....OMG did they put the oil drain plug on tight...good thing I bought a replacement! Will post back in a bit to post oil consumption if any.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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