Stock to stage 2

Decided to go ahead and replace the turbo at 143K, my mechanic noted that the majority of my exhaust is extremely rusted as well, all those miles were in Maine haha

So, I'll be replacing my downpipe, UP, Turbo, potentially oil lines, a cv shaft, a wheel bearing, and flashing to stage 2 with the AP OTS map.

I would like to stay at stock boost with a rebuilt turbo, to ensure I don't have to replace anything else in the mean time.

What other components should I be concerned with while I'm making all this happen? Trying to keep the cost low, but if a couple hundred dollars saves me thousands down the road I might as well do it.

Potential: OCV's pricey? Crank pulley? Spark plugs were changed about 35K ago.

Are there other issues with taking a stock car after this long and then going stage 2?

flashing to stage 2 with the AP OTS map.

 

I would like to stay at stock boost with a rebuilt turbo,

???

This doesn't make sense. You will not stay at stock boost on the OTS map. Nor should you. Why spend the money on supporting components needlessly only to run stock?

Also, it's not possible to run a stage 2 OTS map at stock boost.

???

"I would like to" But clearly I won't be.

Maybe that only makes sense in my mind, I am quite scatterbrained right now.

You can pull the OCVs and clean them if you want. No need to go into replace everything mode.

They're a wear item; they have a lifespan of about 75k. It's under $200 for both -- if you've got the cash now, go ahead and replace them.

Decided to go ahead and replace the turbo at 143K, my mechanic noted that the majority of my exhaust is extremely rusted as well, all those miles were in Maine haha

 

So, I'll be replacing my downpipe, UP, Turbo, potentially oil lines, a cv shaft, a wheel bearing, and flashing to stage 2 with the AP OTS map.

 

I would like to stay at stock boost with a rebuilt turbo, to ensure I don't have to replace anything else in the mean time.

 

What other components should I be concerned with while I'm making all this happen? Trying to keep the cost low, but if a couple hundred dollars saves me thousands down the road I might as well do it.

 

 

Potential: OCV's pricey? Crank pulley? Spark plugs were changed about 35K ago.

 

 

Are there other issues with taking a stock car after this long and then going stage 2?

Honestly, at 143k, you're asking for trouble by stepping up and increasing the boost and modifying for more power (whether you want it or not). You're already well into the downhill-side of your motor's lifespan, so, you can expect to accelerate yourself and your motor to the #ynansb point quicker than if you were to just stay Stage1.

Replacing any number of upper engine parts (like OCVs, etc), even at a cost of a couple hundred bucks now, won't really save you from the thousands you'll be staring at in 25k miles or less. (likely less)

OCVs are $180ish for the pair at Heuberger, either from their website or on their Amazon store. Crank pulley is a good idea, but, not completely necessary. Can't hurt to go ahead and change spark plugs. Check the valve covers while you're there -- replace and reseal if you can.

^^this. and to move any further forward with modifying things is to at least get a compression check/leak down. also an oil analysis cant hurt either

Compression test only shows you what's currently going on and at its status quo; Stage 2 opens things up quite a bit more and allows a good deal more air volume (and thus, pressure, too) into the cylinders, which, even at good comp numbers, can still exacerbate a condition not readily identifiable before going Stage 2.

So if I really wanna bide my time I should keep the stock DP, just replace the turbo and stay stage 1. I've known this all along, but I did not have a good concept of the pressure/air flow increase when going from stage 1 to stage 2.

Constantly wanting my cake and to eat it too.

As for my rusty exhaust system, If the flanges continue to rot away and I don't wanna go stage 2 I might as well just weld the thing together and save myself some money?

So if I really wanna bide my time I should keep the stock DP, just replace the turbo and stay stage 1. I've known this all along, but I did not have a good concept of the pressure/air flow increase when going from stage 1 to stage 2.

 

Constantly wanting my cake and to eat it too.

 

As for my rusty exhaust system, If the flanges continue to rot away and I don't wanna go stage 2 I might as well just weld the thing together and save myself some money?

If you were here out west (no major or visual "inspections" for registration, etc), you'd be able to just let it rust off and be loud.