BI-XENON FX-R 3.0 Projector Retrofit in a 96 Subaru Legacy

Here are 2 images of the factory JDM Legacy lights next to TRS BI-Xenon FX-R 3.0 projectors.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1010326_zps6b3f957b.jpghttp://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1010325_zps333b508d.jpg

First thing you need is a pair of JDM headlight housings due to their non prisimed headlight section on the lens. Separate the headlight assembly by placing it in an oven at 240°F for 10 minutes then gently pry it apart.

I examined the stock mounting scheme and figured I could mount them without losing the ability to aim them. Making a template of the stock ones prior to removing them will save time later, allowing you to mount the new ones perfectly on the first try.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Templateofstockprojector_zps4a78ebe9.jpg

I lucked out as far as the beam having a level cutoff, the housing and the projector have bases that are level. The "L" shaped cardboard is another template which was used to keep the light centered.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010335_zps5219fa0e.jpg

Pictured below you can see the fixed pivot attachment at the bottom right. Top right and bottom left are the black plastic adjusters. I will be using only these 3 mounting points. Doing so will allow full aiming via the stock adjusters.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Stockballmountatbottomrightand2adjusters_zpsd6b47939.jpg

Below is the back of the new projector with attachment tabs.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Adaptertabsadded_zpsa9e73d29.jpg

Below is the front view. The "L" shaped cardboard template has been removed, the housing is level without touching anything but the factory mounting points.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010364_zpsfc4ae01e.jpg

I used a product called Magic Sculpt,[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003ALAZS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376876234&sr=8-1&keywords=magic-sculpt]http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003ALAZS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376876234&sr=8-1&keywords=magic-sculpt[/ame], to attach the mounting tabs to the stock plastic adjusters. (and only the plastic adjusters-do not get any on the screw threads) It sticks to most anything, cures rock hard, waterproof and withstands temperatures of 300°F.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/MagicSculptusedtobondplasticadjusterstomountingtabs_zpsf2f388bb.jpg

I had to cut open the housing for access to the horizontal adjuster. I used a hot knife to avoid spewing plastic everywhere.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Accessholecutforadjusteradjacenttohighbeam_zps2f6c4af8.jpg

I used galvanized sheet metal for patches and siliconed them in place.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Projectorisflushwithrearofhousing_zps346f77d9.jpghttp://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Galvanizedsheetmetalusedtopatchhole_zps6de7e22a.jpg

Preheat oven to 240°F, Let the halves heat for 10 minutes and press together. I had to repeat a couple times for a complete seal. The cardboard template I made of the factory one paid off in terms of fit.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/Afterreassembly_zps202bfad6.jpg

I could not use the factory cup for the back anymore. They have internal threads and were too small anyway. I came up with an idea. That is why I removed some plastic around the mounting ring.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010373_zps8ad1d6e7.jpg

I found a measuring cup that fit perfect. It was the 2nd largest one (1/2 cup)http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010375_zps094b37a8.jpg

I used a Dremel with the drum sander bit to make clearance for the wires. I was originally going to glue them in place with silicone. I came up with a much better idea. I used self-fusing silicone tape. It's waterproof like rubber and sticks to itself, yet can be removed at a later date for servicing.[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Length/dp/B000ZTK6CI]http://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Length/dp/B000ZTK6CI[/ame]

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010374_zpsef181e8e.jpg

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010404_zps94ad0598.jpg

The wiring is pretty straightforward. I did have 1 small issue. They both worked fine while the engine was off, yet the drivers side had a small flicker while the engine was running. I resolved that by adding a 4700 35vdc capacitor in parallel to the ballasts power wires. That solved the issue.

Below is a picture of the cutoff. The adjustment screws work just as they had before. I am able to precisely aim the lights up/down/side to side. http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010376_zpsab70fc5e.jpg

Low beam pictured below.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010396_zpsb9888fe4.jpg

High beam pictured below.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010399_zps80030ba8.jpg

I need to experiment with my camera. I'm going to try manual settings. These were taken on full auto.

The projectors are Bi Xenon, (high and low beam) coupled with the JDMs factory high beams=Double high beams! They are a sight to behold. The photos don't do them justice.

I thought briefly about angel eyes... No

I thought about blacking out the reflectors... No

They are just not me. I prefer the clean look.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Subaru%20Legacy%20JDM%20Projector%20Headlight%20Details/P1010406_zps8e6dd1f2.jpg

10/10.

would read 33rd retrofit DIY again.

would read 33rd retrofit DIY again.

Huh?

Amazing job. I can't believe there aren't more replies to this thread. Your fabrication skills are impressive and the results speak for themselves. And on behalf of the other drivers out there, thanks for not just slapping in the JDM lights with their opposite-of-U.S. beam pattern and blinding everybody.

I'm preparing to tackle the beam conversion on my JDM lights. I know the JDM projectors with halogens will be a vast improvement on the the piss-poor USDM headlights. Maybe one day I'll get the cajones to try what you've done here. Anyway, props.

Also, blacked-out ain't my cup of tea either. FWIW.

Amazing job. I can't believe there aren't more (intelligible) replies to this thread.

Hey **** you, guy.

"send this link to TRS and they'll give you store credit"

I did...

They didn't.

Oh well.

I bought someone's incomplete retrofit project. They had started this retrofit with an sl-i adapter plate. I ended up blacking em out. I think It will go nice with my white bd.

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