Fredrik94087 2013 3.6R Build List

Base Dyno

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4653302&postcount=16

 

Intake: Takeda AFE intake tube mated to a straight tube and large AEM cone filter.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4787507&postcount=28

 

Exhaust: Single out 2.5" mandrel bent with magnaflow mufflers.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2013-legacy-3-6r-intake-and-exhaust-dyno-not-tuned-218192.html?p=4671757

 

Ecutek tune on 91 octane.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4814536&postcount=74

 

99 octane using same tune as above.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4820576&postcount=78

 

Laguna Seca Shrek vs 2014 Turbo S...look at the corner speeds

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5053080&postcount=125

 

Boomba Racing 73mm STI TB

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/boomba-70mm-sti-tb-mated-3-6r-238155.html?p=5085059#post5085059

 

On Rev 6.3 tune at 91 octane:

Total Gains: 16.3whp and 24wtq. 25whp/wtq gained at 5250.

 

My baseline was: 204whp, 208wtq, and 193x.

Intake/Exhausy: 217whp, 225wtq, and 215x.

Revision6.3 91: 220.5whp, 232wtq, and 218x.

Revision6.3 99: 231.5whp, 240wtq, and 230x.

 

Factory rated 256HP 247TQ. Now around 276HP 275TQ on 91 tune.

Baseline was done with upgraded wheels and 255 tires.

Latest run was done with same wheels but 275 tires.

 

Tuning: EcuTek can't connect to my ECU as it is too new. William of Delicios tuning is asking them for an update.

There was an issue at the dyno with my transmission temp waring light coming on. Was advised by a member (Perscitus) that it may very well be EcuTek having a high pooling rate and messing up with the EMC to TCU connection and throwing that light.

I will schedule a base dyno run without EcuTek to eliminate that possibility.

 

 

((Edited March 3, 2014:

I sent an e-mail to Mann Engineering who provided the dyno to set up a time to do a base tune to remove the possibility of the software causing the error. I was replied with the following from Gary at Mann:

 

Hi Fredrik,

 

After internal discussion, due to transmission heating issues and since the Legacy's automatic transmissions are not built to withstand long pulls using precision based dyno systems, we will not be tuning your vehicle. We do apologize for the inconvenience as we want to put preventative measures to protect our customer's vehicles. Thanks for your understanding.

 

This means I can not get an EcuTek tune unless I can find someone else who is set up for at least an e-tune for EcuTek, or do custom road tuning with an EcuTek tuner, or go opensource.))

 

 

((Edited April 8, 2014:

I have Ecutek cable and key. Have not yet downloaded software, but hoping to have William of Delicious Tuning do a custom tune at the end of April.))

 

 

((Edited May 14, 2014:

I have been working with Rob at AMR Performance on the East Coast to get my car EcuTek tuned at 91 octane. He did a bang-up job tuning. In fact, he tuned it so well that between 91 octane and 99 octane, I got 11whp using the same map! ))

 

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Power Parts list:

 

Custom single exhaust after factory "Y"

 

Customized Takeda AFE intake

 

Tune for 91 by Rob at AMR ( running 91 on the street and 100 at the track on same tune )

 

Light Weight Crank Pulley by Pleasure Racing

 

75mm Boomba Racing Throttle Body for STI...March 2015

 

 

 

Transmission:

 

Transmission cooler installed at dead center of radiator

 

 

 

Handling:

 

Wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 5x100 +45 in SBC weighing 15.6# a piece

 

Tires: Falken Azenis 615K 275/40/17 ( tried Nitto NT01 for track use, but Falken was better )

 

Wheel and tire combo weigh 44#

 

Coilovers: RCE Tarmac Zero...

...Fronts are ~2.25" and Rears are ~2" lower than OEM setting.

...Swapped 350# springs for 450# Swift springs all around.

 

Dirty Bits:

1. WHI BSR49XZ Whiteline 22mm RSB with lateral supports

2. STI flexible Front STB

3. GTS-SUS-1425 GT-Spec Rear STB

4. CUS 692 474 L Cusco adjustable rear LCA.

5. GTS SUS-1407 GT-Spec rear toe-arm

6. KAR KB-017-FKAR KB-017-08REAR Kartboy end-links front and rear

 

Bushings:

1. WHI BSF41XZ Whiteline LGT 26mm FSB canibalized for 26mm poly bushings.

2. KCA313 Roll Center Kit

3. KCA406 Front Control Arm Inner Rear Bushing and Positive Caster kit

4. KDT905 Rear Differential Positive Power Front Kit

5. W63225 Rear Upper Inner Control Arm Bushing Kit

6. W0568 Rear Trailing Arm Front Bushing Kit

7. KB-017WLS Kartboy Whiteline Front Swaybar Spacers (so I could fit the kartboy front end-links)

 

 

 

Braking:

 

Brakes: DBA T3 4000 series rotors, Hawk street pads, stainless steel braided lines.

(Make sure you get the 42663S rotor for the rear and not the incorrect one TireRack has listed)

...running Carbotech XP10/XP8 F/R for track use ( and sometimes too lazy to R/R for the HPS for DD use )

 

 

Interior:

 

Pedals: STI pedal covers

 

Shift knob: Leather wrapped shift knob.

 

 

Exterior:

 

Moulding: Door moulding for protection...maybe.

 

Exhaust cover: Covered right side exhaust outlet.

 

Horns: Hella horns

 

BaysonR front lip

 

Some debadging and big red R replacing the enemic R

 

 

Other

 

Exhaust manifolds wrapped

 

Intake duct wrapped

 

Had a Y as intake, but changed to in-line 3" filter...in case big filter gets waterlogged

 

Braille 17# battery replaced 37# OEM battery

pics added

about time!

Can we get a youtube video for the exhaust sound on that?

Picture #2 of 15, the bolt and nut closest to the wheel...unless I'm seeing an illusion, it doesn't look like the bolt threads completely through the nut. At very minimum, the head of the bolt should be flush with the head of the nut to achieve full thread engagement. If what I'm seeing is the way it actually is, I'd purchase a longer bolt ASAP!

Can we get a youtube video for the exhaust sound on that?

Can we haz video?

Picture #2 of 15, the bolt and nut closest to the wheel...unless I'm seeing an illusion, it doesn't look like the bolt threads completely through the nut. At very minimum, the head of the bolt should be flush with the head of the nut to achieve full thread engagement. If what I'm seeing is the way it actually is, I'd purchase a longer bolt ASAP!

 

Good eye. In fact, I think I may have mentioned this to someone looking for LCA's. It doesn't poke through, but we have new bolts ready to go in...just haven't gotten around to it. I'm contemplating a transmission cooler and brake upgrade, so it may all get done at the same time. The bolts are in there with loctite, so I'm not too concerned.

 

Can we haz video?

 

Working on it.

So is the Cusco LCA wider or thicker than the stock LCA causing the bolt to be too short?

So is the Cusco LCA wider or thicker than the stock LCA causing the bolt to be too short?

 

Yep! What pissed me off is that Wheel Works who had originally installed the LCA's on my 2.5i never bothered to mention it.

So, did you decide to leave your engine cover off as well after the intake install, or did you just snap the pic before putting it back?

So, did you decide to leave your engine cover off as well after the intake install, or did you just snap the pic before putting it back?

 

Snapped it before I put the cover on so you can see the entire intake.

 

Cheers!

updated tuning section

That's a bummer bro

updated tuning section

 

 

I'm left stumped by the tuner's response. This is not the same 5EAT tranny used in the 4th gen LGTs?

I thought the 5EAT is exactly the same as the previous gen 2.5GT/3.0 auto but with some beefed up internals for the added displacement of the 3.6.

 

I'm left stumped by the tuner's response. This is not the same 5EAT tranny used in the 4th gen LGTs?

I'm left stumped by the tuner's response. This is not the same 5EAT tranny used in the 4th gen LGTs?

 

I clarified my comment on the first page, but let me re-state as I don't want anyone to think it was the tuner's reply. It was the owner of Mann Engineering, Gary Liu (through the lady who handles the scheduling). The only thing being used at his shop was the dyno and computers. I am still waiting for a response from William (Delicious Tuning).

 

Gary was not willing to analyze and solve a problem. If it had turned out it was my transmission, we had already discussed the installation of a transmission cooler. If it turned out to be the software, then we would take another approach.

 

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Edison.

Love the car, bet that 6 sounds amazing...but how did you manage to get a bhp dyno...or did you just convert it based on the stock whp and tuned whp?

 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

I clarified my comment on the first page, but let me re-state as I don't want anyone to think it was the tuner's reply. It was the owner of Mann Engineering, Gary Liu (through the lady who handles the scheduling). The only thing being used at his shop was the dyno and computers. I am still waiting for a response from William (Delicious Tuning).

 

Gary was not willing to analyze and solve a problem. If it had turned out it was my transmission, we had already discussed the installation of a transmission cooler. If it turned out to be the software, then we would take another approach.

 

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Edison.

 

Yah that sucks. I just don't understand that if you were willing to put your car on the dyno aware of the risks that were involved why would they not allow it.

If you had to figure out a way to have a tranny temp sensor put it to monitor temp, or install the cooler like you said and you felt comfortable with it. They should let you run it.

Love the car, bet that 6 sounds amazing...but how did you manage to get a bhp dyno...or did you just convert it based on the stock whp and tuned whp?

 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

It has been dynoed about six times.

 

I used the stated bhp vs my whp as a percentage. The percentage is 204whp/256bhp or whatever the stated is...I dont remember off hand.

 

Thanks for the props.

Perscitus got me thinking about a cone shield. I looked at the links and I though about making my own box with opening in the front.

 

The box will sit at close to a 45 degree angle.

 

Another option is to extend the afe pipe all the way to the wheel well and drop a cone there. I will do this as a second option.

 

I started the box. It is raining, and this is as far as I got. Will update when there is progress.

 

Box is 7" across left to right. 8" tall and 8" deep. Not much more room in there for a box.

Decided to play around with intake.

 

Got a bigger cone filter, straight 3" pipe and used an hps coupler with a belly in it for some flexibility.

 

Short intake uses a 2" long pipe section.

Longer cold air intake uses an 11" long pipe section.

 

Staying with shorter intake first. Longer one will go in once all rain is done.

 

And, I don't have to remove the engine cover to swap them. The rubber pieces finally gave way and I had to improvise with two sided tape and electrical tape.

 

I'd like to dyno this setup.

It would be nice to have unlimited dyno time just to test out all the possible configurations for this intake.

 

I was thinking, with the standard install Takeda intake plus the HKS funnel, what would be the result of removing the air inlet duct and sealing off the intake part of the stock air box (circled in red)? You would still have air coming in thru the funnel plus the cutout on the side of the Takeda box.

 

When I get a chance, probably Monday, I'm going to remove the Takeda box and finally seal off all the seams with butyl rubber tape.

 

It may be worth a shot.

 

But, even with unlimited dyno time, it can get a little fuzzy.

 

I dynoed a custom version of the intake by forcing it to use the stock airbox. Basically it was the stock airbox and the afe tube. It wasnt good and it didnt work together. By going with the oem box, I gave up the slit on the side of the afe box.

 

This led me to believe the H6 needs to breathe. The short intake I just installed is a bit throatier than the afe setup. I am not going to say it makes more power because I dont want to eat my words. When I go dyno it, I will take the longer tube with me. The longer setup will make more power than the short setup. Question is: will even the longer setup make more power than the afe setup?

 

If my car was already tuned...ahem...I may not have fiddled with the intake.

 

If this open setup makes more power, then afe is justified in not sealing up their box.

 

Good luck with the setup.

Last tweak with the intake. In this location I shouldn't have to worry about the filter getting wet, it is far enough from the motor, and I can still strap the filter.

 

Decided to use the HPS clamps while I was at it.

 

I won't be bothering with a shield.

 

Gonna dyno this setup when I get a chance. Car is going in Tuesday for polyurethane bushings. Skidplates may end up going in same day. Dyno to follow hopefully this week.

sound of straight tube and large filter.

 

Those of you wih the takeda setup know it gets a bit loud at wot. This setup is about 20-30% louder and slightly deeper.

 

Sorry about the audio quality. Next time I will whisper.