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Engine Clicking...Fix it, replace it, or kill it with Fire?


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The ol' 95 has seen better days. I should hit 214,000 miles by this time next week, the last 90k of which I have service records. The motor seems to be totally stock and it shows. Power is lacking, as is efficiency. And what is a torque and where do I buy one?

 

She's been clicking for a while now. Not a deafening loud, but an audible noise.

 

A) what could it be?

 

The timing belt is also due for replacement soon, so that leads to my next dilemma.

 

B) Do I do the timing belt or wait till I can fix?

 

and C) Am I better off with an EJ22?

 

Before you ask, I have little experience, fewer tools, and even less money.

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And what is a torque and where do I buy one?

 

Do you mean a torque wrench? You can get a cheap one at Harbor freight but it might suck.

 

She's been clicking for a while now. Not a deafening loud, but an audible noise.

 

A) It might just be as simple as a collapsed or noisy hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA). If so it's a cheap fix. Remove the valve covers and rocker assembly to replace or bleed it. Here is a youtube of a noisy HLA on my SS: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VckpQAChYs0&feature=plcp]Initial startup of 93 Subaru SS w/EJ22T after rebuild. - YouTube[/ame]

 

B) If you are way past due a timing belt change then it is a good idea to replace it. However, you have a non interference engine so if your timing belt breaks then your engine will shut off and nothing will be damaged. So if you are in a bind you can wait.

 

C) You already have an EJ22.

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Here are some pics from my EJ22E. Once you remove the valve cover you will see the rocker assembly. The HLAs sit in the assembly and are little hydraulic pistons that maintain proper valve clearance. They are oil fed and a really cool feature, imo. Swapping out an HLA is much easier than replacing a valve shim.

 

In the second pic one can clearly see that the HLA is not as proud as the HLA on the right. Unfortunately bleeding the HLA will not cause it to return to the original height. In my experience it is better to just swap it out with a replacement. In the case of my 22T the HLA was completely collapsed and the piston was flush with the sleeve. I would imagine that unless it is completely collapsed it will still function, although not optimally.

 

Third pic is a view of 8 HLAs from one head all lined up. These HLAs had about 257k on them. I was lucky and had a bunch of 'younger' HLAs from a lower mileage EJ22T so I swapped most of them out with those. As far as I could tell visually the 22T and 22E HLAs were identical.

 

Fourth pic shows the ball valve. To bleed a squishy HLA, submerge it in engine oil (pic five) and press the ball with a thin rod, pick, or whatever. Press the piston up and down until no more bubbles are visible. If it will not lock or firm up, then discard it and replace it.

rockerassemble.thumb.jpg.a4ef22b039ed06f44fc505ccc3cd70f6.jpg

hlas.thumb.jpg.a7b65896b3acbe28d3f739f4e75fd732.jpg

HLAset.thumb.jpg.cc5ce407b7c2ffeda3aa9c63b9b14b5b.jpg

ballvalve.thumb.jpg.edbca2fccdd42fae1bf8a5d390b01049.jpg

bleeding.thumb.jpg.db808a4c8f3c2e95af88186456041fc7.jpg

assembly.thumb.jpg.0075e361ee4592202d41491616fffa82.jpg

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I felt like the car ran a bit better, but that's about it. The clicking went away so that was nice. But then it came back, although not as bad. Maybe if I replaced all of them it would go away but I don't really care that much at the moment. Since the HLA in my SS was completely collapsed I was really glad I replaced it.

 

I wouldn't be in a big rush to fix it. But it's not a bad job. However, the rocker assembly bolts have to come off in a certain order and when you put it back on you have to be careful to torque the bolts down in the proper order and torque. It's only about 10 ft. lbs or something like that. It's really easy to snap a bolt. I did that on one of my spare heads while I was getting used to my torque wrench.

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  • 1 year later...
If a collapsed or seized hydraulic lifter is left long term it will mushroom the valve stem. I have one that will bleed down if I store the car for over a week. sometimes takes a few trips to prime itself again with oil. I have a full set I got for $90 bucks
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if you decide to kill it with fire, please do us all a favor. take your hood off, and film your engine bay. then start your car and just sit their in park/neutral and just floor it till something funny happens.

I DEMAND TO BE ENTERTAINED!

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Holy thread necromancy, Batman!

 

I couldn't remember hearing any clicking in the wagon lately, but that may be because the 95 wagon in question met her demise last summer when I hit a deer, sold it, and the new owner grenaded the transmission.

 

The engine still kinda ran, but started to smoke like a banshee at high rev's

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Hey-o, was going to tell you about dem valve lifters, but someone beat me to the punch. I had the same problem. Changed out the lifters and the problem came back. Ugh...

 

Well, turns out this happens when my oil starts to get on the lower side. My girl's a burner (240k miles) and yours probably is too! When oil pressure builds during warm up does the clicking go away? If so, this is what's happening. Just check the oil, put in about 500ml or whatever it takes to bring it to proper level when this happens.

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Well, turns out this happens when my oil starts to get on the lower side. My girl's a burner (240k miles) and yours probably is too!

 

Oil burner is putting it mildly, since just about every oil seal leaked and it burnt oil to boot.

 

It was like driving a 5 speed Exxon Valdez all the time.

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