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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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Sorry the cover with sticker. 31$ ordered a unpainted turbo grille also. Mines broken ls grille. Is was 90$. I was trying to find a used one but at that price may as well get new. Comes with new clips and all. Parts right from subaru canada Edited by bcmaxx
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http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/stu-nami/STUbaru/20141027_105633_zpsxqbhbzyl.jpghttp://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/stu-nami/STUbaru/download_20141025_174432_zpsiiu8p6tm.jpeg

Got everything buttoned up on the spacers. Just needing to narrow down the tire size.

If anyone is interested in spacers my friend can make them for 165$ since he owns Invasion Fabworks. Just shoot me a pm

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No I didnt have too. Only thing ill be doing is removing the rear sway bar because the endlinks arent quite long enough and I don't want to get in a bind. Should allow slightly more travel too. Or im going to fab some endlinks up. The bushings were shot anyways
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I went through 2 sets of cvs up front before i dropped the subframe. Was to steep an angle for them. I used a set of older toyota truck end links. I had to cut and sleeve them. Edited by bcmaxx
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Mine started right away. Clicking when turning sharp. And under load taking off from a stop. I tried two sets of front cv axles before i gave up and got some forester spacers and front lower transverse link bushings.
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Picked up this super clean engine cover. Having a new sticker made ❤️

 

http://i.imgur.com/1dQ9EUC.jpg

so bummed , subaru zeroed me , nla.... but grille stille coming. off to the wrecker I go, oddly theres quite a few of these around

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Got a 4.11 vlsd rear diff for 40$, supposedly only 20k miles out of a wrecked legacy gt. Although it's been sitting in a field, I've already got rust converter on it and it ready to paint. Apparently this motor is out of an early jdm legacy rs. I believe I have found 2 different compression ratios for this motor. My current ej20g motor is only 8:1, while this motor is 8.5:1. The physical difference is the breather cover on the camshafts covers, the 8:1 motor has aluminum ones while the 8.5:1 motor is plastic. Both motors have fully closed decks. I had a hard time finding the transmission code, finally found a japanese website that said it was a 4.11 FD whereas the Australia version is a 3.90 like the U.S car. I am still amazed at how clean this motor/5spd are, Ive seen a lot of jdm's and theyre never this clean. Cant wait to get the 5spd in this weekend, the 4:11 FD should really change my launches. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/CAM00231_zpseywub71e.jpg

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/CAM00238_zpsdguclvom.jpg

Edited by USLiberty
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Rented this one from a local guy from a Craigslist ad. $40 for a week with a $200 refundable deposit when returned. And I have a heat gun already. Pretty easy job really. Now that I know what to do, with a helper I could probably do a car in 2 hours.

 

This morning my buddy and I are taking a little road trip to go look at a 93 TW for him, and if he gets it today we're gonna roll all 4 on the wagon today to prepare for aftermarket wheels/tires.

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Just helped my buddy pick up a 93 TW. It has an MRT Performance 3" turboback. Winning!!!

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/02/3051a0d7b4a06939842f2bd78689800a.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/02/6a5ed1a855aa4bfec50dc50f368619d2.jpg

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He paid $2200, perfect interior, not a spot of rust and only a few little dings, 145k on the clock, the motor purrs and hits 9 psi, auto tranny was rebuilt recently and the rare 3" MRT turboback. The only reason we had to tow it home is the pressure side PS hose had a tiny leak that was squirting on the engine in the vicinity of the turbo and we didnt want to risk it igniting and burning the car to the ground on the 2 hour drive home.
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Mine won't start. FML all the lights and eletronics work, go to turn the it over and no clicking or anything. Time for a new starter to diagnose the problem on wed when I have time. Hoping it's just that simple of a fix.
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It could be the battery falling flat on it's face when its required to cough up some amps on start, indication of a bad plate. If this is the case it would still have enough power to run the radio, etc. Put a multitester on the battery and have a friend try to start it, if the tester shows a huge drop in volts when you try to start the car, its the battery. Also check, by disconnecting and jumping, the clutch switch.
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Jump the starter solenoid terminal(the smaller, slide connector on the starter) you can run a wire directly from the + terminal of the battery to the starter solenoid wire and it should crank if the starter is good whether or not the ignition is on. If the starter is fine, it could be in your ignition switch(key) or starter relay.
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