head gasket questions..

Im looking for input on weather to change my head gasket myself OR just take it to a garage. I am mechanicly inclined and have changed head gaskets before. But I don't have experience with subaru's so would y'all recommend this job to a subie nooby or should I just take it somewhere .

If you are comfortable working around engines and have a place to remove the engine and put it on a stand, I'd say do it yourself.

You need to have or can borrow accurate torque wrenches. Both 1/2 in and 3/8 drive. The 3/8 is for the cam bolts. the fronts are only 7.2 Ft/lbs and the rest 14.5.

here is ref to FSM .https://docs.google.com/folderview?pli=1&id=0B6P6dybMMzg9cFp0V0pWMXpiVlk&tid=0B6P6dybMMzg9T25hMEhPdjFVc1k.

You'll also need good 12 pt sockets in 14mm and 12mm.

You'll also want a new t belt and pulleys.Water pump.and if you have the new style tensioner (one piece), that too. (Gates kit is good from either TheImportExperts or MizumoAuto on Ebay).

Replace separator plate with upgraded metal one or reseal the old one.

Use the Subaru turbo head gasket ( part ending in 642). ($89 from my dealer for 2)

With the rockers off do not turn the heads over or the valve buckets may fall out and you'll be forever putting them back, for they have to keep the tolerances.

Use Subaru metal gasket for water pump.

Here for DIY head resurfacing.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/

Bag and label your bolts. Life will be easier that way.

Do not rush.

An impact gun will make life easier.

Am sure others will chime in for what I have forgotten to mention.

While it can be done in car, by removing the pitch stop and jacking the engine high. I'd remove, this way you can change/reseal the separator plate.

LEAVE the rear main alone. At this age you'll have some leakage, but if just a small amt., leave it.

 

 

O.

I just replaced the head gaskets in my 96 the cam cap torque was 7 ft/lbs on all the cam caps (found out after snapping a bolt torquing to 14 ft/lbs) but i think it changed after the 96 model. As for doing the repair your self its quite easy to do your self. I had zero experience with Subarus prior to doing mine, I will tell you that it is much, much easier to do with the motor out of the car but you can replace them in car. Like said above just take your time and you wont have any problems, just make sure you use quality MLS (Multi-Layered Steel) gaskets. Most recommend genuine Subaru gaskets, I used Fel-Pro gaskets on mine.

Do it! It's pretty easy. I was a total newb and replaced the head gaskets on my SS and it runs great.

ya, it is pretty easy. just make sure you pay attention to the details, read up on the process and watch a few videos. the more you know, the easier it will go. also, +1 for putting the engine on a stand to do it. much easier than trying to lift it and working around the stuff in the engine bay.

so what are the signs of a bad head gasket? my car is over heating but im not 100% sure what it is..

Make sure you have access to a really powerful pneumatic gun or a welder, it was a pain to get my cam gears off. Luckily I have a welder and I welded the allen on to the bolt, otherwise i would have been SOL.

Signs of a bad headgasket is loss of compression, bubbles and gunk in the overflow tank, white smoke coming out of the tail pipe, hydrocarbons in the coolant (get it tested), overheating...

 

Make sure your thermostat is OEM subaru and your system is purged of air bubbles before jumping to any conclusions. Get the hydrocarbon test for your coolant ASAP.

On a 98? Do it your self, there pretty easy and straight forward. I suggest having the heads cleaned, surfaced and new valve seals

I went to my mechanic and I got a quote of $1800!!! And that's if I just do the head gaskets no rear main seal no resurfacing no idlers or anything like that.

Also if the head gasket was bad would I lose coolant? I haven't noticed any fluid loss.

Well I have decided to change the head gaskets but I've got a few more questions

-I'm un familiar with the shims that people say fall out when i remove the camshaft could someone tell me what they are and what they do? could I just pull the engine put it on a stand and turn the engine on its side to avoid all the bits falling out?

-ANY TIPS AT ALL WILL BE APPRECIATED! !!!!

Also if the head gasket was bad would I lose coolant? I haven't noticed any fluid loss.

 

not always. if its leaking exhaust gas into the coolant, youd not lose much coolant unless it was pushing it out the reservoir. and it would do that with a significant leak, not a smaller leak that can also cause overheating.

 

Well I have decided to change the head gaskets but I've got a few more questions

-I'm un familiar with the shims that people say fall out when i remove the camshaft could someone tell me what they are and what they do? could I just pull the engine put it on a stand and turn the engine on its side to avoid all the bits falling out?

-ANY TIPS AT ALL WILL BE APPRECIATED! !!!!

 

no clue on the shims thing, but putting on a stand and turning the engine would be the preferred method to doing it horizontal and letting stuff hit the floor randomly

The shims are in their respective bucket. Just put the cams back in finger tight after you remove the head bolts, this will prevent any issues.

 

O.

ok cool!

now how would i go about checking to see if the heads are warped?

Take them to a machine shop and they will use a straight edge and feeler gauges. To get them machined is fairly cheap, $70 or so.

They have to be checked with a mechanics straight edge. Procedure is in FSM.

Unless there has been consistent overheating, just a resurfacing is more than sufficient.

 

O.

a machine shop might be hard to find round my parts...

Hard choices. Resurface and go, is my vote.

 

O.

Did it overheat badly? Multiple times? You can risk not getting them decked but its your call.

 

You can always ship the heads although not ideal because $$$. If you have access to a large piece of flat steel you can clamp or glue some sandpaper to it and flatten the heads going through multiple grits. Haven't done it myself but have used that technique for other projects. It's easy to mess it up if you're not careful.

Did it overheat badly? Multiple times? You can risk not getting them decked but its your call.... It's easy to mess it up if you're not careful.

 

Not necessarily. Take your time. Follow the steps in the DIY link above. Works extremely well and people have been doing this for more years than I am old.

 

O.

I was emphasizing the be careful bit. We agree on that.

 

If the sandpaper is not on a flat surface that will give a rounded head. The sandpaper can become loose and slip round. I've flattened many metal planes and wood structures using sandpaper and a flat surface. It works great. Just be aware. The heads are fairly heavy so they will sit nicely as you sand. As you start flip them over often to see how much material you are taking off. It will be easy to see how much more you have to take off.

In the DIY I referenced, GD uses plain flat glass. I went to a glazier and got a piece of about 18 in sq 3/8 thick glass for $9.

I used spray adhesive instead of brush on and I used mirror holders plus a few nails to keep the glass stationary.

Will have to do another set soon as I am going to DOHC an EJ222, as I have the parts.

I'll post in DOHCEJ22e's thread to advise of the differences in the 99-01 block.

 

O.

I overlooked that DIY but I will definitely do that as I found a large plain of glass in my new house. Now how about the block just scrape off the old gasket material and a bit of brake cleaner?

Yes and get a can of wd 40 or other lubricant to keep the surface wet with.

 

O.