log interpretation

i have a log of a jdm lgt with a 3" turbo back catless exhaust and avo 15 psi actuator.

Please tell me what do you notice are wrong?

romraiderlog_20090924_172905.csv

i have a log of a jdm lgt with a 3" turbo back catless exhaust and avo 15 psi actuator.

Please tell me what do you notice are wrong?

That log only tells us that for some reason your IAM is down to almost nothing, which is likely extremely bad.

What gas?

(I don't get what is going on with super low IAMs, two in one week that are the lowest I have ever seen!)

It doesn't look like you did any real driving. Not sure if it's the same on the JDM, but you need to get your IAM to 1.0 before logging. your reading of .1875 is much too low. Drive around a bit, doing some WOT during this time. You need to have/install learning view (free on Romraider website) to check if your IAM reaches 1. Also, in order to analize the log you need to do a WOT 3rd gear pull from about 2,000RPM to redline. You need to change the parameters you are logging as well. Most of them are irrelevant. Log:

engine speed rpm

engine load

ignition total timing

manifold relative pressure

knock sum

Primary WGDC %

MASS airflow

Turbo Dynamics Integral (2-byte)** (absolute %)

I am also new to tuning, but have done a lot of logging and tuning adjustments to my car. Here is a learning view shoot after doing WOT pulls and driving normally after. I took this when I got home.

If I'm giving wrong info for a JDM LGT please correct me. But assuming it uses the same settings, you need to get your IAM to 1.0 before anything else.

It doesn't look like you did any real driving. Not sure if it's the same on the JDM, but you need to get your IAM to 1.0 before logging. your reading of .1875 is much too low. Drive around a bit, doing some WOT during this time. You need to have/install learning view (free on Romraider website) to check if your IAM reaches 1. Also, in order to analize the log you need to do a WOT 3rd gear pull from about 2,000RPM to redline. You need to change the parameters you are logging as well. Most of them are irrelevant. Log:

engine speed rpm

engine load

ignition total timing

manifold relative pressure

knock sum

Primary WGDC %

MASS airflow

Turbo Dynamics Integral (2-byte)** (absolute %)

 

I am also new to tuning, but have done a lot of logging and tuning adjustments to my car. Here is a learning view shoot after doing WOT pulls and driving normally after. I took this when I got home.

 

If I'm giving wrong info for a JDM LGT please correct me. But assuming it uses the same settings, you need to get your IAM to 1.0 before anything else.

Most tunes (unless changed) start off IAM at something like .50 or greater.

For it to get to less then .50 would likely require lots of knock. DO NOT RECOMMEND HE DO WOT RUNS TO GET IT UP, WHEN IT WAS OBVIOUSLY KNOCKING (likely severely) BEFORE!

Most tunes (unless changed) start off IAM at something like .50 or greater.

 

For it to get to less then .50 would likely require lots of knock. DO NOT RECOMMEND HE DO WOT RUNS TO GET IT UP, WHEN IT WAS OBVIOUSLY KNOCKING (likely severely) BEFORE!

Very true, good point. Mine is set at .7. He needs to change that in RR if possible.

you need to get your IAM up before driving. Set your Change Advance Multiplier (initial) in Ignition Timing knock controll tab in RR to 5. or .7 first.

NO!, he needs to not drive (at least not in boost). It likely won't come up, as it looks like it shouldn't. The ECU is (presumably) doing its job, protecting the engine.

Either the gas, or the tune or both are majorly screwed up.

my my .... what a coincedence ... two cars ... same problem ... same tuner.....hmph

I was wondering about that.

funny thing is this was taken by my tuner after about half hour of wot runs . also the other jdm legacy gt and mine was tuned by the same tuner. This car is from trinidad. My tuner is also the one who set those parameters and when we did the log he said everything was fine :S. i have a copy of my map that my car is running now, i have no prob emailing it to u along with my stock map( which i cant get to open) so that u can help me understand what is wrong and how to fix my baby

That is ridiculous. I strongly recommend not letting this "tuner" touch your car again. Seriously. From the contents of this log, it's pretty clear that he can't tune. It's also pretty clear that he doesn't know how to make logs. And given that he declared the car healthy on the basis of this log (which shows that it's not healthy), he doesn't know how to read logs. Someone who cannot log, and read logs, cannot possibly tune properly.

I would put the stock map back in. You can get the hardware you need from http://www.tactrix.com, and the software is available here:

http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash

If the car is modified, open the tune in EcuFlash and set the "maximum wastegate duty cycle" value to zero. There are some tables by that name, with dozens of cells in them, but you can leave those as-is if you just find the global limit and set it to zero. This will help keep boost at low levels until you get the car properly tuned.

Stay away from this guy, and tell your friends to stay away from him.

NO!, he needs to not drive (at least not in boost). It likely won't come up, as it looks like it shouldn't. The ECU is (presumably) doing its job, protecting the engine.

 

Either the gas, or the tune or both are majorly screwed up.

Didn't we say the same thing...or am I missing something.

"you need to get your IAM up before driving"

"NO!, he needs to not drive (at least not in boost)."

It doesn't look like you did any real driving. Not sure if it's the same on the JDM, but you need to get your IAM to 1.0 before logging. your reading of .1875 is much too low. Drive around a bit, doing some WOT during this time.

 

[....]

 

you need to get your IAM to 1.0 before anything else.

It started with an IAM of 0.5 like most Subarus, and then knocked its way down to 0.1875. My guess is that it's knocking so much that IAM will never reach 1.0, and driving at WOT will do more harm than good.

I'd put the stock tune back on, set max WGDC to 0, and log that, to get a baseline. If it knocks, reduce timing; if it doesn't, raise WGDC. Little bit little. Find out where the knock sets in. If it gets to stock WGDC without knocking, consider more boost or timing; if not, pull timing or just keep boost low.

"you need to get your IAM up before driving"

 

"NO!, he needs to not drive (at least not in boost)."

Those are totally different statements. listen to NSFW.