Kinugawa Turbo Review

Hi,

 

I have investigated my case, the turbo appeared to be too much damaged and needs a new CHRA. Has anyone tried from this seller on ebay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VF38-VF40-Subaru-RHF5H-CHRA-Cartridge-Turbocharger-Turbo-/181191776653

 

They have a 100% reviews (28 total).

This is E&E Turbo company.

They also have this web-site : http://www.worldturbocharger.com/

 

Your help would be appreciated as I'm going to order the CHRA next week.

I have installed Kinugawa chra and after just several minutes I head a noise from turbine and the chra appeared to be damaged. Is there anything that can ruin the chra so fast? can it be banjo filters? I have removed 1 but it was not too dirty. Any other known problems on this car? I think there may be some problem with oil pressure.

Did you prime it with oil? Sounds like it was running on no oil.

any special process needed? Oil pipes were connected as usually so oil should go through the pipes in just seconds under pressure. If I did not do something please advise what I have missed. The chra worked fine for 20 minutes parked and engine started, then I drove about max 5 km and heard the noice only after that.

Any new reviews or longterm info on Kamak turbos?

About 12k on my Kinugawa still going strong. Swapping out downpipes this weekend so i'm going to check if there's any shaft play while i'm there.

Does changing a chra need special care while starting the car with a new chra installed? Do I need to avoid high rpm? Any recommendations?

i think you should maybe leave up to a mechanic to swap out, sounds like your not to sure what your doing.

My turbo sounds like a billet wheel whistling. Love the sound. I got 4k on it already and hope it will last me a long time.

 

sent from my phone.

got my kamak 20g last week, and waiting on my samco inlet to arrive. Hopefully get installed by end of the year.

I might have 1~2k miles on my car, since I walk to work, but I just visited my tuner buddy to get off spring pressure this past weekend. All I can say is 'GODDAMN!'. He wasn't comfortable having boost set to 20psi to redline, due to age of the engine, no FMIC, no external gate; so it spikes at 1.4bar and tapers to 1.3.

 

It pulls hard at 1.3, but truly shines starting at 1.4 bar. I am super happy with going ful option, and the 18G is a great fit for my driving preference!

I just purchased another vf38 chra from kinugawa, hope it goes fine and will write about it after using it some time. Just nobody tells me if there is any recommendation for using a newly installed chra, should I avoid high RPMs?

I just purchased another vf38 chra from kinugawa, hope it goes fine and will write about it after using it some time. Just nobody tells me if there is any recommendation for using a newly installed chra, should I avoid high RPMs?

 

Prime the turbo by either pulling the fuel pump fuse or holding the throttle to the floor and crank the engine for about 30 seconds. (Holding the throttle to the floor in all modern drive-by-wire cars stops the injectors from firing)

Prime the turbo by either pulling the fuel pump fuse or holding the throttle to the floor and crank the engine for about 30 seconds. (Holding the throttle to the floor in all modern drive-by-wire cars stops the injectors from firing)

 

All modern fuel injected cars.. its known as clear flood mode. Also, just pull the fuel pump fuse, or relay whichever your car has. Crank for 20 second intervals, 3-4 times. This insures you don't kill your starter while getting oil through the whole system.. also a good way to check for leaks..

thanks, will try that before starting. and thats all ? after starting I can use the car as usually and drive with full boost ?

Well, after three months of being run pretty hard, my STS TD06H 20G gave it up.

 

I was getting on the freeway the other night and got on it a bit. 1st gear pulled nice and hard, but as soon as I shifted and got back in the throttle in 2nd there was no response from the engine.

 

As I was heading home to see what happened, I noticed that the turbo would whine instead of whistle and it wouldn't build any positive pressure. I pulled it last night and found quite a bit of play in the bearings and a chunk missing from the turbine.

 

I contacted Kinugawa today and sent them the pic of the turbine and they are sending me a new CHRA. I don't even have to ship the old one back. So, I'm pretty pleased. I ran that thing pretty hard. I had an FP turbo fail in 6 months after running it at 32 psi on my last car. FP was also super good about rebuilding their turbo under warranty.

 

I think I'm going to run less boost just to get some more life out of this new CHRA. Then, when I'm at the track I'll turn it up for a few passes.

thanks, will try that before starting. and thats all ? after starting I can use the car as usually and drive with full boost ?

 

It's also a good idea to do an oil change before starting the engine with a new turbo. Then prime it. With the turbo installed and the drain hooked up you can poor some oil into the feed hole just to get something in there before you prime it.

My Kamak TD05-20G is still awesome after 20k km including a track day and many WOT runs.

Look for the description Subaru MY08, Replace VF40 & VF46.

I have changed the chra with a new Kinugawa chra, the car worked fine and then I heard some knocking from engine (( now the engine is also damaged... w t f. are these BP5 models so weak ? or they have some specific problem? the oil preasure was tested and it was fine (6 bar on right avcs,)

Issue isn't a weak drivetrain (engine), issue is contamination of the oil from the blown turbo. If you shut it down immediately, which I don't think you did, when the issue first occurred, you may have a chance. If not, then look to replace the motor

 

There's a process to go through to prep your engine before you reinstall your replacement turbo.

 

1. Before you replace your turbo, pull the fuel pump fuse, start the motor and make sure it runs out of gas at idle, don't rev the engine
   
2. Pull the oil pan, clean-out ALL the metal bits, and reinstall it
   
3. Pull your oil pump, clean-out ALL the metal bits - personally, I'd replace it.
   
4. Replace the oil cooler (don't attempt to clean this)
   
5. Replace the oil filter and refill the engine with oil
   
6. Replace ALL the banjo bolts with new screened versions, DON't take them out to clean them, or leave them out all together
   
7. Prime your turbo before you install it - spin it lightly, while pouring oil into the oil inlet port - keep doing this until oil runs out the bottom.
   
8. Install your turbo, with an in-line filter in the oil supply
   
9. With the fuel pump fuse still removed, crank your motor through several 10-15 second "cranks". This will pressurize the lube system, including your turbo
   
10. Replace the FP fuse, start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temp (NOT) with no revving.
    
11. Turn-off the engine, drain the oil, replace the oil and the oil filter
    
12. Start your engine and allow it to reach NOT, again, with no revving
    
13. Drive easily for NMT 5-10 drive cycles, but NMT 100miles.
    
14. Drain the oil and replace the oil filter
    
15. Drive normally, and hopefully, you got lucky
    
16. If not, find a replacement engine, and repeat the process above
    

Drive easily for NMT 5-10 drive cycles, but NMT 100miles. <-- could you please describe more details? whats NMT?

 

Oil pipes were cleaned, pump also but nothing was replaced. banjos were removed. turbo was primed with oil and 30 sec cranking the motor without starting it (fuel line was cut). after that engine was started and idled for 30 minutes. Then I drove slowly 5 km and then tried higher revs about 4000rpm and then I noticed knocking in engine, i drove about 2 km more and then stopped the car near local subaru specialists boxes.

Drive easily for NMT 5-10 drive cycles, but NMT 100miles. <-- could you please describe more details? whats NMT?

 

Oil pipes were cleaned, pump also but nothing was replaced. banjos were removed. turbo was primed with oil and 30 sec cranking the motor without starting it (fuel line was cut). after that engine was started and idled for 30 minutes. Then I drove slowly 5 km and then tried higher revs about 4000rpm and then I noticed knocking in engine, i drove about 2 km more and then stopped the car near local subaru specialists boxes.

 

 

NMT = no more than.

 

I presume

Yes - sorry NMT = no more than.