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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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  • 2 weeks later...
Installed new stoptech slotted rotors on my 4pot fronts, dba rotors were warped. I also installed some LGT 550cc sidefeed injectors using early impreza 2.5rs fuelrails. It was instantly running about 15% richer and powerband was much smoother. Ill have to do some fuel rescaling of my link EMS. This week I will be ordering the new FP green htz turbo with 8cm housing and antisurge inlet, good for any future ej257/6spd swap. I will soon be getting some 800cc injectors after all is well at 16psi. Adding Corvettes, Hemis's and grandmas bad ass caddy to the lunch menu.
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Last Friday night I replaced the coolant temp sensor (the one the ECU uses) in hopes of it curing my random warm start lean creep and hesitation issue. It did not but did improve things a bit when the car is running properly. On to the IACV removal and cleaning in hope that it's sticking and causing my problem. :spin: Weird thing is that this is so random.
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Got some n/a unequals, fresh oil and filter..cleaned her up. All the head work that i did was well worth the time, now just need to take care of her cosmetically, previous owners were not gentle.lol but she runs and breathes well.

KIMG0198.thumb.jpg.fd3bea56e7201621059ef97d5e8f24ae.jpg

IMG_20150322_120549.thumb.jpg.07067d00611dff5bd56871ceb8141c9c.jpg

Edited by pleaidestar
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I'm in the process of filing a small claims court claim against the shop. They asked me to bring the 205 heads back up to the shop and they were going to take them to their machine shop to get looked over. After I did that they won't answer their phone, respond to texts, or emails. I filed a dispute with Paypal to recover the money I gave them to do the chamber matching. It has been three weeks since I have heard from them. I called the machine shop and they didn't have any heads that matched my description.

 

I found a set of JDM 205 heads locally, so I am in the process of switching them over to shimless buckets and installing STi cams. I'm going to chamber match them myself. I was a violin maker for 10 years before I became a molecular biologist so I am pretty sure I can pull it off, lol.

 

I am pretty pissed at the shop. Paradise Auto in Centerville Utah. The owner is Matt En, and JD Youngblood is the guy who ruined the heads. Do not trust these guys!!! Sucks I have to sue them. Now I'm out $1700 because of these jerks, not including the cost of the JDM heads I just bought, which I had to resurface, plus the cost of converting them to shimless buckets.

 

I'll post up some pics when I get a chance.

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Got some new shoes, Bridgestone Potenza s4 pole position in 225/45/17. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM00545_zpszd9a7n53.jpg

Also, got a new snail, GT3076 in .70/.63AR. Will be fabricating the rotated mount adapter and custom downpipe in a couple weeks. Not sure how I will like the spool but I plan on changing out the center section in favor of a Garrett in the future. External wastegate will dump downstream of the exhaust, I'm sure the neighbors will love it.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM00538_zps9ltuif16.jpg

Edited by USLiberty
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Cross post!

 

Damn its been forever since I've updated!

 

http://i.imgur.com/Kixvrulh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/cCj1Vjmh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/m5o4qW1h.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/a413OP1h.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/eHqRjXQh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/5HROPUYh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/JUpjRrvh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/YhHJ6Fgh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/GTvrQwDh.jpg

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Installed KYB GR2s and H&R sport springs. I love the drop and how it handles. Pretty comfy ride, not harsh at all. I was on stock rear struts and blown out KYBs in the front. I hit 181k recently so stuff needed replacing. Next up are swaybar and steering rack bushings, and tie rods.

 

Then I swapped in a WRX MOMO steering wheel. The wiring was tricky but everything works. :)

 

SS is begging for bigger wheels now, lol.

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Are you going for just big power now or what's the end goal? Just curious since a dom1.5 would've been my pic or smaller FP

 

 

 

I was going to go with fp, but decided I'd rather get into an external wastegate and T3 turbo. The price for T3 parts are less and far more options available. Also getting the turbo away from the cylinder heads is an advantage. For now, 350 whp is my goal, but will be building a 2.1 closed deck motor capable of more. Eventually Ill ditch the legacy shell and this will all go into a factory five 818 kit car for a trackday car.

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Yeah, sadly it is a cheap turbo and I don't expect it to last long. However, being a gt30r clone I can swap in an authentic Garrett ball bearing center housing and a differently sized billet wheel.

Right now with the stock vf10 and being at mile high elevation. I hit full boost by 3k rpms which is nice and Torquey, but the boost starts dying off by 4500. On a hot day it tops out at 14psi and cold days it hits 16-18psi so my car is faster if I short shift it. I am just hoping to pull 18psi up to the rev limiter and keep the boost more stable.

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22T/205 hybrid update. :)

 

If you want something done right you gotta do it yourself. Started chamber matching the 205 heads to the 22T bore. It's not that difficult if you're careful and have used dremels or routers or carved wood and shit. Gotta focus like hell and be aware of body position though.

 

Interestingly, after examining the stock 22T combustion chambers are the exact same diameter as 205 heads which means they don't match the bore of the 22T. Lots of people run stock 205 heads on 22T blocks w/o chamber matching. Now it makes sense why 20G heads are a good swap for 22T heads.

 

I was talking to the owner of the machine shop who did some work for me recently (they fixed another shops careless work). He built sprint cars and has an engine dyno. I mention the dyno because he said he did a lot of stuff that he thought made a difference, but when he got an engine dyno he realized a lot of his practices based on others opinions didn't do shit.

 

Anyway, he said most of the power and torque from head work came from flow around the valves in the combustion chamber, not necessarily from porting the intake.

 

First I brushed on some chem marker stuff, then I set my dial calipers to 2.5mm and scribed a line around the chambers. Then I set them to 3mm which gives me the final 97mm bore. I used the inside of my 3M painters tape roll as a guide for the curve into the quench pad. I initially set it to 2.5 mm so I have 1mm of extra material to clean up with sanding bits.

 

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/4F4E6F27-4352-400A-A1E4-A6452CD260AC_zpszqjhhtsh.jpg

 

Then mask everything off with tape to the inside line.

 

If you're careful and use small pieces of tape you can perfectly mask your outline.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/068EC3AB-F1DE-4027-9B66-19EFB969187D_zpspb4bquqy.jpg

 

I got a sweet die grinder and a good assortment of bits. I ended up only using one bit for the bulk of the work but the rest of the bits will come in handy for the exhaust port work coming up.

 

 

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/8D93E04B-6DF6-4BCE-9F7B-0872EA83C162_zps6hyov9jz.jpg

 

It got dark so I had to stop. Tomorrow I'll smooth everything out with stones and sanding drums and check the CC of each chamber.

 

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/C05F7FA2-3011-4704-AE44-C897A4735A48_zpsgd3ekqi5.jpg

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